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Old 05-01-2006, 12:52 PM
  #10156  
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Originally Posted by jscamry
thanks for the info rapid, so can if i were to run with the one-way in front and solid rear, I not want to have my break set to stop on an dime, correct. But with this setup I would get good a turning radius.

thanks Jason
You are correct on the brake setup. As for driving style, you need to brake before starting the turn, apex early and accelerate hard out of the corner. When you get on the gas, the rear end should swing around allowing you to hug the inside line as you exit the corner. You use the throttle to control how much steering you get once you get into the turn. With the one way, you will have good initial turn in too.
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Old 05-01-2006, 04:36 PM
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2nd night out, clutch working perfectly still, heaps of punch. 0.6mm on adjuster, 0.8mm clutch gap. Unfortunately stalled on the line in the final and went a lap down to the whole pack. Drove it back to 2nd by driving the wheels off it.

I also am using the front spool with the "plug" and it seems to work nicely. I prefer the oneway, but brakes are a must for this tracks layout.............

http://www.lcrccc.com/Race%20Results...al_Race_4.html

My name is Alan Beven. I actually did 31 laps, but as you can see cause I stalled I did not get my "mini" lap in for lap 0 and then started off again AFTER the start line which screwed up my lap count.
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
...I broke some carbon hinge pins that I got so I wasnt able to run it long....


did you get those off ebay? i just ordered those. they were supposed to be super strong . how did you break them and did anything else break in the suspension?
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:49 PM
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Yeah im kinda baffled. Im not sure if ill run them again. I tapped the wall and poof one of the hinge pins snapped in two different places. It could be cause im running CG arms...but there just a pain all around to use , you gotta sand them and polish them to get them smooth.

I did take one and tried to snap it , I gave it some good power and it didnt really budge. Maybe just a fluke , I might give em another chance...but right now im tired of loosing races cause something breaks or goes wrong. I might keep the ones in the upper front on , but the rear might be to weak to handle it.

Well see what the guy says.
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:18 PM
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"CG arms"?
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Old 05-01-2006, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrothugg
"CG arms"?
carbon graphite...
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah im kinda baffled. Im not sure if ill run them again. I tapped the wall and poof one of the hinge pins snapped in two different places. It could be cause im running CG arms...but there just a pain all around to use , you gotta sand them and polish them to get them smooth.

I did take one and tried to snap it , I gave it some good power and it didnt really budge. Maybe just a fluke , I might give em another chance...but right now im tired of loosing races cause something breaks or goes wrong. I might keep the ones in the upper front on , but the rear might be to weak to handle it.

Well see what the guy says.
I would think that the impact shattered the resin. That's the problem with CG, its really light and strong, but brittle under impact.
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:08 PM
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Ill get a pic of it. These carbon rods are more fiber like...its odd stuff.
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:10 PM
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Also here is my lock nut modification. Got tired of loosening lock nuts and I know there are lock nuts with teeth that grab the wheel. But I figure this should work just as well. These 3racing locks nuts only costed 5 dollars and they weigh nothing. So I figure I would put them to good use.

Just use a regular hobby knife and well the picture explains itself. Grasp one side with two fingers and go from the inside out on the other side so the blade wont go near your fingers. Use good pressure when cutting so it creates a nice deep scratch.


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Old 05-01-2006, 10:10 PM
  #10165  
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
2nd night out, clutch working perfectly still, heaps of punch. 0.6mm on adjuster, 0.8mm clutch gap. Unfortunately stalled on the line in the final and went a lap down to the whole pack. Drove it back to 2nd by driving the wheels off it.

I also am using the front spool with the "plug" and it seems to work nicely. I prefer the oneway, but brakes are a must for this tracks layout.............

http://www.lcrccc.com/Race%20Results...al_Race_4.html

My name is Alan Beven. I actually did 31 laps, but as you can see cause I stalled I did not get my "mini" lap in for lap 0 and then started off again AFTER the start line which screwed up my lap count.
Great race. The other guy posted a track record too. I also see that your fasted lap matched his fasted lap.
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Great race. The other guy posted a track record too. I also see that your fasted lap matched his fasted lap.
Yeah I was cranky that the darned thing stalled, we pretty much would have finished neck and neck otherwise. Plus if I had of been able to hang on his bumper, well you know what pressure can do Anyways theres always next week !!

My shift point also had taken a wander. The two setscrews that press the balls into the carrier seem to back out quite easily. I have never had this problem before, anybody else seem to suffer from this? When they back out a touch it seems to make the shiftpoint wander...........
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Also here is my lock nut modification. Got tired of loosening lock nuts and I know there are lock nuts with teeth that grab the wheel. But I figure this should work just as well. These 3racing locks nuts only costed 5 dollars and they weigh nothing. So I figure I would put them to good use.

Just use a regular hobby knife and well the picture explains itself. Grasp one side with two fingers and go from the inside out on the other side so the blade wont go near your fingers. Use good pressure when cutting so it creates a nice deep scratch.

If you ever see a shop with Kawahara wheel nuts for sale you can get them for around $4 and they are the "toothed" items you are looking for. Otherwise any ID 5mm flange nut with a toothed inner face will work, you can sometimes find them at hardware shops. Or otherwise the MTX4 wheelnuts come toothed stock now as well.

I love mine, they never back out even slightly.
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
I would think that the impact shattered the resin. That's the problem with CG, its really light and strong, but brittle under impact.
Roger that. It is like carbon fibre arrow shafts. They are light and have high lengthwise strength, but their lateral strength is quite low as it is not required in the application. Same with carbon plate for electric cars, very strong on the flat face, but a reasonable side on hit will crack it fairly easily.

The other thing that bothers me with carbon shafts is that I always polish my steel ones to make them nice and smooth. Carbon I would think would be more rough and increase "sticktion"? Or perhaps I am wrong?
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:29 AM
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Your more than right. The carbon rods where like an unfinished wood. Very bumpy , the rears when first inserted completely binded the suspension. It was hard to just slide them in.

I had to sand them and polish them , brought it around completely. They went from a dark grey to a polish black. But if they crack within a few laps on a slight tap...at least it seemed to be.

I would figure its not going to be a reliable part. Darn shame too, It was going to loose me 15 grams.

I would have been at 1615 total weight. With even 8 HD Body clips and all.
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:30 AM
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AI, Rapid boy, and AMG need to be the R40 Dream team.
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