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Old 04-30-2006, 01:56 AM
  #10141  
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Default howto make my front diff into a solid?

Hey all I was wondering how can I make my front diff into a solid with out using pt#75060 =Rear Solid Axle. Also how would the car react if I used a solid in the front and rear?

thanks Jason
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Old 04-30-2006, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Never had a belt fall off once. But if you do get the problem the CF side brace will fix that with a quickness and reduce a little weight , or if your handy with a dremel just dremel down the slot for the belt tensioner and your good to go.

The only real weak link on the r40 is the rear camber links. Otherwise I didnt have much trouble with the car at all. The only tricky part is the clutch and you can go mugen for $50 for the full set.
Where do you get this Mugen clutch set and what is the part number?
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Old 04-30-2006, 07:46 AM
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Ill be racing at stikland. Superior is next sunday. First time to run the r40 on another track. Cant wait. Just put in a regular bearing kit, not sure about the quality but it was 14 dollars and it includes bearings even for your steering. Just missing the really small one.

They seemed pretty smooth to me.
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Old 04-30-2006, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Where do you get this Mugen clutch set and what is the part number?
It might have been brooklynhobbies, theres a few people out there who stock a lot of mugen on the net. Im not real familiar though I was bouncing around and always see them.
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Where do you get this Mugen clutch set and what is the part number?
http://nitrohouse.com/parts,_mugen_mtx-3.htm
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:30 PM
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Ran the car today. All I can say is.... Game , set , match. The r40 moves from just slight throttle blips.

Nitrothugg thanks for the help. That spring payed off. I now can focus on my driving. Thanks again.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 05-01-2006 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jscamry
Hey all I was wondering how can I make my front diff into a solid with out using pt#75060 =Rear Solid Axle. Also how would the car react if I used a solid in the front and rear?

thanks Jason
Cleaning putty in the front will work, diff lock lube will make it close to solid too. How come you don't want to use the plug on the front?

Having solid front and rear will probably make the rear too loose.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Cleaning putty in the front will work, diff lock lube will make it close to solid too. How come you don't want to use the plug on the front?

Having solid front and rear will probably make the rear too loose.
thanks for the info. I did not think that I was able to use the plug in the front since it was made for the rear

thanks Jason
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:53 PM
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JS, Yup the plug works in the front too. You could try front one way and rear solid like the 1/8 guys do. You gotta make sure the front is overdriving the rear with that setup or the car will be undrivable.
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Ran the car today. All I can say is.... Game , set , match. The r40 goes from just slight throttle blips.

Nitrothugg thanks for the help. That spring payed off. I now can focus on my driving. Thanks again.
how was that engine?
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
JS, Yup the plug works in the front too. You could try front one way and rear solid like the 1/8 guys do. You gotta make sure the front is overdriving the rear with that setup or the car will be undrivable.

thanks for the info rapid, so can if i were to run with the one-way in front and solid rear, I not want to have my break set to stop on an dime, correct. But with this setup I would get good a turning radius.

thanks Jason
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by onnetz
how was that engine?
Ran well, it exhibits very good behaviors. Idles forever , good smoke , smooth powerband. I broke some carbon hinge pins that I got so I wasnt able to run it long and was just starting to tune it. But it was moving really nice.

I brought the rear arms back more too that kinda helped settle the rear. As well I think I love the spool.
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:39 AM
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Default Another R40 Centax clutch victim

Well, after several days of messing with the Centax clutch on my R40 and reading about the issues in this thread, I've come to the conclusion that I will never get this one working correctly and need the Mugen one.

It's the one for the MTX3 right?
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by onnetz
Thanks
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TT120
Well, after several days of messing with the Centax clutch on my R40 and reading about the issues in this thread, I've come to the conclusion that I will never get this one working correctly and need the Mugen one.

It's the one for the MTX3 right?
1mm or .5mm preload, two copper/two silver shims, may need a .5mm shim behind the collet depending on the engine, and try .8mm on the adjuster nut. I ran that setup with no issue on the stock clutch. I only changed because some how some parts got rusted.

P.S. Anyone still run at nanuet? What was their site again? Do they run 8th onroad?
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