R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-27-2006, 08:07 PM   #10126
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 756
Send a message via AIM to Proteus
Default

Anybody here running an LS3? Does anybody have the stock needle settings?
Proteus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 07:56 AM   #10127
Tech Addict
 
Formula1fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Buckeye City!
Posts: 691
Default

I have tried nitro twice before with a NTC3 and hated it. I just picked up a new R40 at a great price $0 So I am going to give it another try. Few questions:

I have noticed a guy at our local track always loosing one of his belts, how can you prevent this?

Is there a new clutch with the Hara edition?

Over all what are some steps I can take the make the car reliable enough for long mains?

Do you true new nitro tires and to what size?

Thanks
Formula1fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 08:09 AM   #10128
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Never had a belt fall off once. But if you do get the problem the CF side brace will fix that with a quickness and reduce a little weight , or if your handy with a dremel just dremel down the slot for the belt tensioner and your good to go.

The only real weak link on the r40 is the rear camber links. Otherwise I didnt have much trouble with the car at all. The only tricky part is the clutch and you can go mugen for $50 for the full set.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 08:20 AM   #10129
Tech Addict
 
Formula1fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Buckeye City!
Posts: 691
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Never had a belt fall off once. But if you do get the problem the CF side brace will fix that with a quickness and reduce a little weight , or if your handy with a dremel just dremel down the slot for the belt tensioner and your good to go.

The only real weak link on the r40 is the rear camber links. Otherwise I didnt have much trouble with the car at all. The only tricky part is the clutch and you can go mugen for $50 for the full set.
What is the CF brace part number? Do i just get the clutch part number for the MTX-4? Thanks.
Formula1fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 08:29 AM   #10130
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

CF Mid Brace #73104

And you need the mugen mtx-3 clutch set if you go that route.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 04:58 PM   #10131
Tech Master
 
Rapid Roy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: L.A. (Rowland Hts)
Posts: 1,531
Default

AI, this was posted in another thread. You have probably already read it, but this is the method I used to set up my stock R40 clutch. It has been a couple of months since I last ran my car and probably a year since I last did my clutch so I couldn't remember exactly how I did it. I do know that the clutch engagement is fairly low. I have the clutch setup even lower for my son's R40 so he can be a bit smoother. Good information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR




When you have the whole clutch together you should have the .6mm of end play.





Uhhmmm... close but not quite right. Endplay is different from clutch gap.
When the entire clutch is together, ready to run, you should have barely any endplay (0.1mm). However, there should be a 0.6mm clutch gap between the clutch shoe and the endbell.

If you perform the assembly/shimming in the following order, the clutch gap should be fine, the end play should be minimal, and there is no way that the clutchbell will be pressing against the clutch shoe.

1. Install the following:
0.5mm washer behind flywheel cone -- tapered cone -- flywheel -- flywheel nut -- flyweights -- clutch shoe rear plate -- clutch shoe -- spring cup (in clutch shoe) -- tension spring -- spring preload collar -- clutchbell w/ outermost ballbearing -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw. You leave OUT the following: innermost ballbearing in clutchbell, and small spacer between ballbearings.

2. Set clutch gap to 0.6mm -- using shims on thrustbearing collar.

3. Remove the following:
Machine screw -- thrustbearing assembly -- clutchbell.

4. Install the following:
Innermost ballbearing (on crankshaft) -- small spacer -- clutchbell (with outermost ballbearing in it) -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw.
Make sure you use good grease in the thrustbearing, every time you work on it. Mugen Super Grease is VERY good... it's very thick, lubes well, and lasts a long time.

5. Check the END PLAY... this is the amount that the clutchbell moves on the crankshaft. There should be barely any movement along the crankshaft (0.1mm) but the clutchbell should have some play. It should not be locked in place on the crankshaft, as this puts pressure on bearings and will cause dragging and premature wear/failure.

6. To adjust the end play, you will use the tiny, thin-wall shims. Remove the clutchbell and all bearings (and spacers) (as an assembly), and put these tiny shims on the crankshaft right atop the flywheel nut. Then re-assemble everything and check again.

7. When everything is back together, hold the motor so the crankshaft is pointing at the ground, and spin the clutchbell... it should spin freely (for more than 5sec)... but this depends also on the heaviness of the grease you use in the thrustbearing. If the clutchbell doesn't spin well but seems to bind, you may not have enough endplay or the bearings may be bad.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by GlennCauley : Today at 07:49 AM.
Rapid Roy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 05:11 PM   #10132
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Sweet. Ill print that sucker out tonight and check it out while im playing with the clutch.

Also recieved my GS spring. I ordered two and its funny the packages are both the same but inside is two completely different springs. Im actually happy that it did end up being this way as one is way to soft...but then again im not sure what or what isnt too soft.

But beyond that I went and installed the stiffer spring and just got done running it. It seems to work a little better now allthough before I had it pretty good with the r40 spring. Its kinda hard to tell but im going to test these springs on the track very soon.

But right now im pretty sure im going to leave the one spring in there.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2006, 07:45 PM   #10133
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Thats pretty much exacty how I set up my clutches. Works perfectly on the R40 clutch and Mugen clutch.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 01:22 PM   #10134
Tech Adept
 
ProE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Africa
Posts: 236
Send a message via MSN to ProE Send a message via Skype™ to ProE
Default

AND another R40 clutch eventually works.

I got my clutch to work correctly today. Had a quick look at all the posts about the clutches this morning and decided, today is the day.

I reamed my new mugen grey clutch shoe's holes. I fitted a new clutch bell. Checked the gaps and set the spring lock nut to 0.6mm.

Started the motor and it worked first time. The only big change from previous set-ups was the new clutch bell.

The acceleration was awesome. My R40 with an os .12 tz and os pipe was faster than a mugen mtx 4 with a RB motor in the back straight.

The only bad thing that happened is that my second gear stripped completely. Don't know why, maybe my engine alignment was wrong or the one-way bearing in the two speed got stuck.

Had to order new parts from tower hobbies. They will only arrive next Friday.

THAT SUCKS.
ProE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 01:39 PM   #10135
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
AND another R40 clutch eventually works.

I got my clutch to work correctly today. Had a quick look at all the posts about the clutches this morning and decided, today is the day.

I reamed my new mugen grey clutch shoe's holes. I fitted a new clutch bell. Checked the gaps and set the spring lock nut to 0.6mm.

Started the motor and it worked first time. The only big change from previous set-ups was the new clutch bell.

The acceleration was awesome. My R40 with an os .12 tz and os pipe was faster than a mugen mtx 4 with a RB motor in the back straight.

The only bad thing that happened is that my second gear stripped completely. Don't know why, maybe my engine alignment was wrong or the one-way bearing in the two speed got stuck.

Had to order new parts from tower hobbies. They will only arrive next Friday.

THAT SUCKS.
how did you car handle in the infields and through that corners against your competition? Did you have plenty of rear on power traction?
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 02:01 PM   #10136
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default rebuilding shocks

I was wondering when shocks are being rebuilt, should they rebound when you clean them up and refill oil in them? I have found that when i followed the instructions, my shocks did not rebound.

thanks jason
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 02:30 PM   #10137
Tech Adept
 
ProE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Africa
Posts: 236
Send a message via MSN to ProE Send a message via Skype™ to ProE
Default

This car handles like a dream. Traction out of the corners is really excellent with one in front and thick oil in rear diff. Iím still learning to handle and set this car up.

But can already see that this car does NOT have to stand back for any other make.
ProE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 07:59 PM   #10138
Tech Elite
 
HarKonnenD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,024
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to HarKonnenD
Default

What RB motor was in the MTX4? What pipe was on it? What were the gear ratios? You can't really compare anything without those $$ answered. Have everyone swapped over to the 05 hara? Atleast 4 shops I went to never stocked them and only have the original R40.
__________________
Trying to live every day like its the last....
HarKonnenD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 09:20 PM   #10139
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Just totally redid my rear-end. New 4 gear diff , dog bones , all new bearings , new urethane rear belt , new rubber side belt.

Thing feels wonderful , ready to go racing tommorrow.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2006, 10:58 PM   #10140
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Just totally redid my rear-end. New 4 gear diff , dog bones , all new bearings , new urethane rear belt , new rubber side belt.

Thing feels wonderful , ready to go racing tommorrow.

rear-end sounds good!! What kind of bearings did you put in your car? So are tiy racing at superior tomarrow? good luck!!

Let me know how it all goes

jason
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New on Nitro and this forum Emaxx rider Rookie Zone 8 02-06-2008 07:21 AM
HPI Nitro MT 2 Forum Tom P Electric Off-Road 5 07-19-2004 06:26 PM
New Nitro R/C Forum Dantherc10man Web Links 0 08-09-2003 07:39 AM
Nitro car forum Rose Money Singapore R/C Racers 47 07-04-2002 08:49 PM
Nitro Forum ART2 Singapore R/C Racers 41 05-16-2002 10:51 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:19 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net