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Old 04-24-2006, 04:23 PM   #10096
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Thanks, found it.
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:02 PM   #10097
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Well guys I achieved it again today. Low rpm clutch engagement. I really wouldnt call it low rpm , but for the r40. Its good.

The thing is , ive had this deal before. If its anything like my last clutch dialing that got low rpm. Itll be weird at the end of next sundays race.

As well its doing the same thing. Itll roll the wheels a little bit if the idle is set perfectly low. So im a little worried about dragging....and im sure its probably like .1 gap.

The thing I did this time was I took the clutch adjustment screw basically all the way out. Before it was darn close to th end , now its almost like a hair or two left to thread out.

I guess if your looking for low-end engagement. Dont even play around. Just take that screw almost all the way out. Then I placed a thin washer on top to help reduce drag. As well im back to the grey disc and I made sure everything can move around smoothly.

The problem though with me giving you guys an extra solution is I did two things at once. I took the screw all the way out this time. But beforehand I took the black spring and worked it for awhile to try and hope it would loosen up some. Set it on the ground and kinda bounced on it for a little.

This might have helped reduce its tightness. But between those two I got it...its just a little to close for comfort with the dragging at idle. Allthough I can get it to not roll anything I know its just right there.

But anyways wanted to share my deal. Pretty happy , everything on the car is finally coming together. Spool now , motor is brand new moded and ready to take names after todays tuning. Got a new pipe to replace the rdlogic for the meantime. Still have the CVEC waiting in the stable for when I get to test this motors power at the track so I can do a good comparison.

Got the right plug for the motor , its the same I started the break-in on and looks great , got the right fuel , got my tires trued and now ive got the car completely equaled out , got a new ultra fast , ultra lightweight servo then tonight im going to tweak it one last time and hopefully represent the r40 right next race.
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:09 PM   #10098
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Oh forgot , didnt really get a response. What are you guys doing with your oil filled diffs? How much do you fill them? As well do you guys use any kind of sealer to help seal the diffs?
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:48 PM   #10099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Oh forgot , didnt really get a response. What are you guys doing with your oil filled diffs? How much do you fill them? As well do you guys use any kind of sealer to help seal the diffs?
I'm using the 4 gear rear(filled with Mugen 30,000).......one way front......
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:54 PM   #10100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Oh forgot , didnt really get a response. What are you guys doing with your oil filled diffs? How much do you fill them? As well do you guys use any kind of sealer to help seal the diffs?
I filled the rear diff all the way. You could also partially fill for more diff action. I don't think it would create an unbalanced diff since the lube would get spun to the outside of the diff.
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:59 PM   #10101
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Quote:
Oh forgot , didnt really get a response. What are you guys doing with your oil filled diffs? How much do you fill them? As well do you guys use any kind of sealer to help seal the diffs?
I filled mine up with a heavy oil. Creates kind of a locked diff effect. Loose some stearing but get more traction. Depends on the type of circiut.
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:45 PM   #10102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
I filled the rear diff all the way. You could also partially fill for more diff action. I don't think it would create an unbalanced diff since the lube would get spun to the outside of the diff.
Yeah thats what im thinking , not only does the unit itself spin the gears do as well which should grab the oil and bring it into all the other gears.

But did you meant to say partially fill for less diff action? I couldnt imagine it giving it more diff action with less....but maybe you can elaborate.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:15 AM   #10103
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Artificial-I, I think what Rapid Roy is trying to say about the oil is that even if it is filled halfway, the centrifugal forces will distribute the oil out when it spins.

I don't think that more or less would make a huge difference once the diff starts spinning. If it’s half, all the gears will be covered in oil. If it’s full, it will still be covered in oil.

The thing that is going to make the biggest difference is the weight of the oil that you use.

Let us know what oil you used. It’s always nice to have a reference.
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:22 AM   #10104
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Yeah the reason why I ask is I want to run minimal oil for weight savings and dont want to over stuff the diff. Hmm yeah guess im just going to fill it as far as possible.

Ill be running 10,000 mugen super diff oil. With 4 gear mod and spool in the front. This is on tight , low traction track.
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:30 AM   #10105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah the reason why I ask is I want to run minimal oil for weight savings and dont want to over stuff the diff. Hmm yeah guess im just going to fill it as far as possible.

Ill be running 10,000 mugen super diff oil. With 4 gear mod and spool in the front. This is on tight , low traction track.
The partialy filled diff will be easier to turn then a full one. You can use this to fine tune the diff. Don't go overboard because using just a little bit of heavy oil will make the diff stiff at first, but then get loose as it gets spun out of the gears. I wouldn't go less then 1/4 full to make sure that there is enough oil in it.
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:40 AM   #10106
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Ok. I got a quick question on the stiff at first part. I had a dif that was taken out of a used r40 with oil in it. And it had the same effect real stiff then loose.

How do I go about preventing this? Is this ok to happen or should I just fill it all the way. I guess now I want to just do the proper method. I dont really care about the weight savings , just want to have correct action from the diff.

Thanks so far for the input guys!!!
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:51 AM   #10107
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The best way is to fill the diff all the way. The stiff then loose effect will be greater with heavier lubes. I keep wondering why other MFGs don't develop a ball diff like Serpents. That thing is bullet proof and you don't have to mess with the gooeey lubes. It does need more maintenance though.
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:13 PM   #10108
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Think the stiff then loose effect will be reduced with less oil?
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:41 PM   #10109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
Done all of that. Sanded the pins down. The movement of the clutch bell from min. to max. is only 0.3 mm.
Thats part of your problem right there. You should go to at least 0.5 to 0.6 as a starting point if you are using any of the more modern powerful engines.

BTW the HPI stock spring is lighter than the stock MTX3 and MTX4 clutch springs, not stiffer.
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:43 PM   #10110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
i seem to have a problem, everytime my car goes into second gear, then i go to take a corner and slow down i have no drive at all. untill the engine rpm goes back to idel and car has stopped. then it is fine, if i keep the power on it , is fine wont loose drive,untill i back off ,iam confused cheers.
any help would be great, iam not sure were to start looking
Almost certainly the oneway bearing on your 1st gear carrier is blown. Try replacing it, or cleaning it.
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