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Old 02-27-2006, 02:23 PM   #9916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Yeah I have always had a mut, half HPI half Mugen. This one is full Mugen, works awesome. I have only run the yellow shoe so far, so I cant say how it compares to the grey or red, need to test it more. But I am very happy with the punch.
Your my R40 Hero....lol. Yeah I like to hear your thoughts and you try a lot of the stuff I want to try. I have the grey , red and yellow now...but only tried the grey. I guess thats the harder one , better than the hpi black.

I have a mugen clutch sitting in my pit box just dying for use. Im just holding off cause I want to have it setup with the correct gears for my track. So I can just swap back and forth.

I think im going to give my r40 clutch another go , since it was ok last time...but if it gives me trouble Ill have to try the mugen. Your review reminds me I just need to go for it.

It seems whenever I watch a mugen drive they just have this instant punch look , like an electric like you say. They stab the throttle and it just darts forward.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:33 PM   #9917
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Ok went to the mugen mtx-4 thread. Someone said it goes like this.

Hardest to softest
Black --> Gray --> Red --> Yellow

Im not really sure how true that is and the explanations of them were conflicting. Seems no one really knows there.
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Old 02-27-2006, 04:25 PM   #9918
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Got home today and found out my brother came through. I've finally got the 2005 ED along with a whole bunch of Kyosho stuff for my RRR. Now, do I go ahead and build up the 2005 ED or just pull the chassis, upper deck, etc and convert my 2004 ED? I thought that would be the better way to go then save the extras for parts, but nothing beats a new car.....
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Old 02-27-2006, 04:29 PM   #9919
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Build all new car , swap over TI screw kit. Chances are your second build on the r40 will go together with a little more experience and quality.
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Old 02-27-2006, 05:19 PM   #9920
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TI screw kit doesn't come with the new 05?
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Old 02-27-2006, 05:23 PM   #9921
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I dont believe it does. I dont have the kit but I think thats what I read.
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Old 02-27-2006, 05:32 PM   #9922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proteus
TI screw kit doesn't come with the new 05?
Nope, only regular steel screws.
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Old 02-27-2006, 07:54 PM   #9923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The MT12 has the same stroke as the Rody, just a longer conrod. You will find that a correctly tuned MT12 is fast, but a Rody X12 should kill it on the top end. Any newer motor should be significantly faster than the MT12, especially on the straights. I love my MT12s, but they just cant compete (non modifiied) these days.
True. That case I'll sell it and get the N12. I'm going to break it in on the 30%, though wondering how will that effect the breakin in needle settings...or should I break it in with the OD 20% then later switch to the byrons 30%?
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Old 02-27-2006, 07:58 PM   #9924
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I would break it in with 20% and switch to 30%
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:01 PM   #9925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Your my R40 Hero....lol. Yeah I like to hear your thoughts and you try a lot of the stuff I want to try. I have the grey , red and yellow now...but only tried the grey. I guess thats the harder one , better than the hpi black.

I have a mugen clutch sitting in my pit box just dying for use. Im just holding off cause I want to have it setup with the correct gears for my track. So I can just swap back and forth.

I think im going to give my r40 clutch another go , since it was ok last time...but if it gives me trouble Ill have to try the mugen. Your review reminds me I just need to go for it.

It seems whenever I watch a mugen drive they just have this instant punch look , like an electric like you say. They stab the throttle and it just darts forward.
My buddy gave me the drum on the Mugen clutch. Yellow shoe, .5mm endfloat, crank it till it binds and back off 1 turn. I had to loosen it a little more (I bought the MTX4 clutch kit with the stiffer spring) but its awesome, car does not move until I pull around 1/4 throttle. BTW the MTX4 clutchbell does not fit the HPI pinions, so you will need a MTX3 clutchbell and bearings to suit if you buy the MTX4 kit. Probably better off getting a MTX3 clutchset and get the silver Mugen spring. Oh well. The HPI clutch can work this well, but I just like the Mugen clutch for convienience and ease of parts availability. There is only really one HPI clutch shoe you can use.

The only negative with the Mugen setup is that I cannot quite get a full overlap of the 1st gear pinion and spur. There basically is not quite enough adjustment in the chassis holes with hogging them out to get a full overlap. It laps probably 80%. I will just have to wait and see whether this causes premature 1st gear failure. You could of course hog out the chassis a little, you probably need around 1mm only. 2nd gear is fine.
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:09 PM   #9926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
True. That case I'll sell it and get the N12. I'm going to break it in on the 30%, though wondering how will that effect the breakin in needle settings...or should I break it in with the OD 20% then later switch to the byrons 30%?
I guess it depends on how much your motor means to you. You can baby them with low nitro and nice easy breakins and such, this seems to work nicely. Me, I just hammer on them from the get go. I use my race fuel for breakin, 16% nitro and 8% oil, run 1 tank static with 2 shutdowns/cooldowns. Then I get it on the track and hammer on for 2-3 tanks, tune it to race tune over the course of these tanks and then smash it until it dies. Funnily enough I have only ever blown 1 motor in 5 years, and only killed compression on around 2 motors. Most get retired for the latest model before they quit. These things are made to get flogged, and also made to wear out, so I just deal with that and move on

I usually run 3 motors on a rotation basis, and just log hours used for each motor. I currently am rotating a NS12 BRB, N12LL3 and Sirio EVO 2 Collari. My record for fuel usage 36 litres thru a RB X12 with it still running flawlessly over a 30 minute final. 1 rod change!!!
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:13 PM   #9927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
I would break it in with 20% and switch to 30%
kewl beans. Anyone else thing I should do this?
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:17 PM   #9928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proteus
TI screw kit doesn't come with the new 05?
Nope it does not. Just steel screws as stated. I think it is because they are not really needed on the new kit. It builds to like 1780g or so with body, so you dont need the weight reduction like the old R40 needed. I have not bothered with any hopups on my 2005 except:

HPI brakedisk
Kawahara wheel nuts (just dont let go!)
Mugen clutch
Alloy front body posts (dont ask)

Car is fast as stink and accelerates awesome even humping around the bit of extra weight. I dont want to mess with the chassis balance by changing screws. If you glue the battery to the chassis plate you can shift it forward and aft for better weight distribution. I have also changed my spring preference to silver front and black rear now. It seems the car likes the softer springs, more grip and still transitions better than the old car.
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Old 02-27-2006, 10:19 PM   #9929
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Thanks for the info. One more question, should I swap over my carbon susp arms too?
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Old 02-27-2006, 10:48 PM   #9930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
kewl beans. Anyone else thing I should do this?
i was all ways thinkign you should all ways run your engine in, on what fuel your going to run with ans never go down in % at all only go up, my nsr12 s3 has had about 5ltrs in it now, and i have not touched the needle one after the break in. i ran it in on 25% and iam stilll using it 5 ltrs later. and still as strong as it was the day i got it, does not miss a beat.
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