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Old 02-04-2006, 12:13 PM   #9796
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Originally Posted by ProE
I took my R40(2005) for its first outing today. Had to brake in OZ engine as well.

Is was almost as if my car would not go. At low revs, I could see that the clutch wants to engage. When I reved the engin up, the car was very sluggish so start moving. I had to rev it high to get it to move. I then loosened the screw on the clutch, but it seemed to be the same. I checked the whole drive train and it could move freely. The brakes wasn't keeping the car back.

When the car did eventially start moving, it seemed to handle nicely. Could not push it hard as Im still braking the engine in. I also experienced a funny problem when braking. The end of the car would come around the left side the moment I applied the brakes. Even in a straight line.

Have any of you guys had these two problems before, and how did you fix it.
to get the clutch to engage sooner, you want to tighten it..

if your running a one way up front, that would explain why you spin around when applying the breaks...
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Old 02-04-2006, 12:30 PM   #9797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
I took my R40(2005) for its first outing today. Had to brake in OZ engine as well.

Is was almost as if my car would not go. At low revs, I could see that the clutch wants to engage. When I reved the engin up, the car was very sluggish so start moving. I had to rev it high to get it to move. I then loosened the screw on the clutch, but it seemed to be the same. I checked the whole drive train and it could move freely. The brakes wasn't keeping the car back.

When the car did eventially start moving, it seemed to handle nicely. Could not push it hard as Im still braking the engine in. I also experienced a funny problem when braking. The end of the car would come around the left side the moment I applied the brakes. Even in a straight line.

Have any of you guys had these two problems before, and how did you fix it.
Make sure that the pins in the flywheel arn't scraping against the clutch bell. When you build the clutch, put the weights and shoes on the flywheel and see if the pins are sticking up through. If they are high enough to touch the clutch bell, you need to grind them down or tap them further into the flywheel.

The braking issue you are having sounds like either a tweak problem or your droop is unevenly set.
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Old 02-04-2006, 12:40 PM   #9798
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onnetz
Yes, the kit does come standard with a oneway for the front. Is there any thing I can do or do I just have to live with that.

How would tightening help it to engage earlier. isnt it going to prevent the clutch shoe from moving towards the clutch bell. Sorry for silly question. Just thrying to understand how this clutch type works.(Just familiar with old style of clutches).

Rapid Roy,
Just took the clutch bell of and those pins have started making a mark on the clutch bell.

Could be a setting issue. I've just set every thing to the manual when I assembled them. Havent tested any thing on a setup board to make sure they are correct. Could be a user behind the tools error.

Thanks for the quick response guys..
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Old 02-04-2006, 02:13 PM   #9799
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proe: best thing to do if you need brakes is to switch to a diff or a solid axle, depending on your track....

finally got some decent pics of my r40......

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Old 02-04-2006, 02:36 PM   #9800
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ProE, If the pins are making a groove in the clutchbell, they need to be shortened. Its malking the gap between the clutch shoes and bell too large which is causing the clutch to engage too late.

onnetz,
Try mounting the body posts to the rear shock tower and you can remove that big plastic peice that is behind the shock tower right now.
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Old 02-04-2006, 02:48 PM   #9801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
ProE, If the pins are making a groove in the clutchbell, they need to be shortened. Its malking the gap between the clutch shoes and bell too large which is causing the clutch to engage too late.

onnetz,
Try mounting the body posts to the rear shock tower and you can remove that big plastic peice that is behind the shock tower right now.
yeah I know.. just haven't done it.....
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Old 02-04-2006, 04:58 PM   #9802
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Yeah the most lovely thing about the r40 flywheel and it seems unchanged for 05. If my clutch acts the same tommorrow/tonight. Even with my flywheel pins in. Ill be swapping to the mtx set I have sitting in my box.

BTW best way to do the flywheel pin shaving. Just get a patch of sanpaper, set it on the ground outside. Turn the flywheel upside down and scrape away at the pins pressing down just enough.

This will make all your pins nicely even and shortens them very quickly. Otherwise you tap them in and they will become loose and move around.
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Old 02-04-2006, 09:31 PM   #9803
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Hey Onnetz what engine is that? Looks nice.
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Old 02-04-2006, 11:40 PM   #9804
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Quote:
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Hey Onnetz what engine is that? Looks nice.
its an sts d12x 5+2 port turbo..
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Old 02-05-2006, 12:25 AM   #9805
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anyone got a complete flywheel/clutchbell assembly they want to part with?
I want another complete setup so I can just swap motors..
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Old 02-05-2006, 01:13 PM   #9806
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Report from the race today. Awesome, the clutch did great today. So I finally figured out a good fix. Sandpaper. So it seems I can stick with the r40 clutch a little longer.

Did alright today , kinda went out the first qualifier late...as usual. Got a few laps in and got my times down each lap as I was building speed getting used to the new layout. (different every time). Was on 42 shore tires and it was pretty cold , drove quite a bit different than I exptected.

Also running the STRONG coreless servo vs my usual s3010's was quite different. I believe it was getting the car to loose the rear more than usual , but might have been due to the 42 shore tires. I planned on running 37's all around but decided to go easy on my tires and wanted another on the 42's.

I went into the 2nd qualifier with high hopes...was in on time so I could get a full run. Decided to stick with the 42's and applied some traction comp to the rear. Then a problem that was presenting itself in the pits came to life on the track. A faulty power-switch....just switches on and off for no real reason. My car went dead in the middle of the track. I wasnt sure what it was at first, thought it might have ran out of gas....so As I started to press in the throttle and servo. Then bing it came right back on and rocketed head on towards 3 cars that couldnt care they were coming right for a dead car/malfunctioning anyways. Heard a nice smack.

Noticed afterwards the car was pulling a little to the left. Then few minutes later onto the straightaway...and thats what the car did...didnt hook , just went straight away full tilt into the wall and car shut off. Afterwards, checked it out oblitterated p-dub bumper , 3racing cf bumper brace and completely tore off one body post. Not sure which incident did this....but oddly enough I think the head on collosion caused the most damage.

Ah well , it happens and luckily the lhs had one p-dub left.

But Ill post my thoughts later on the strong / quick servo vs the standard s3003 servo.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 02-08-2006 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 02-05-2006, 01:53 PM   #9807
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I run 40s this time of year and they provide pretty good traction.
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Old 02-05-2006, 11:20 PM   #9808
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Yeah my 42's didnt seem to wear much. Could have probably used some 37's.

Also what cars post do I use for the rear CF shock tower. Im going to swap to that as my rear body posts are pretty much shot too. Trimmed them too low...dont yah hate it when that happens.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:39 AM   #9809
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Just thought I'd post these random pics. Still got bronchitis and heck it's just ruining everything.



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Old 02-07-2006, 05:53 AM   #9810
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Hello everybody,

For race under rain, i want buy pit shimizu tires.

Could you give me the right reference i must take and reference for the insert i must use with it.

Many thanks.
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