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Old 01-20-2006, 07:32 PM   #9661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Awesome thanks for the input. What shoe has more grip/friction? Do they both wear the same?

Also the spring , is that the mugen gold spring or hard spring?
Red bites harder than yellow, yellow is more bitey than grey. Make sure you scuff your clutchbell it gets pretty hammered and you get a build up. Throw the shoes away when they go black, dont try and sand them like i used to they get all scalloped and just slip. They are cheap enough.

For the spring I am sorry I have no idea. I been racing now for 4 years and I have a whole bunch of parts in my clutch setup kit that I just know that they work, I lost the make and colour a long time ago. If I had to guess it is a Kyosho Evolva Gold, but thats a guess.
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:14 PM   #9662
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I still regret to sell my r40...just put too much into it and won't get much back if I do sell it...unless I do just plan to race 8th onroad only.
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Old 01-20-2006, 10:39 PM   #9663
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pics of me car with new hop up bits and sage chassis
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-img_0608.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-img_0610.jpg  
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Old 01-21-2006, 12:01 AM   #9664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
pics of me car with new hop up bits and sage chassis
Very nice. Did you get a chance to weigh it before you put it on the car?
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Old 01-21-2006, 12:09 AM   #9665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
pics of me car with new hop up bits and sage chassis
3mm or 4mm version? Also no worries about the weight , I have the 3mm and will go weigh it in a little bit.
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Old 01-21-2006, 01:08 AM   #9666
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yeah it is 4mm chassis no sorry got nothing to weigh it with.
also has anyone had problems with bubbles in there fuel line? iam getting them and cant get it to keep running? split fuel tank? maybe.
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:35 AM   #9667
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I used to have bubbles in the fuel line problems... This should solve
your problem... One squirt of Armor-all ( the original ) in 1 gal of nitro fuel...
This will reduce a great deal of the bubbles... Next lengthen your fuel line, both pressure and intake, this will help stabilize the pressure... If you still get bubbles then you might have a leak in the tank... submerse the tank in water, plug one hole with your finger and blow into the other hole and look for air leaks... good luck... I had to go through all this last year to solve the same problem...
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Old 01-21-2006, 04:02 PM   #9668
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it must be the tank. cause i have tried all different fuels. thanks i might give it a go.
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:12 PM   #9669
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Try a short fuel line and a longer one. Sometimes too long of a line will allow the line to jiggle to much causing bubbles.
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:23 PM   #9670
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yeah armol in the fuel seem to work better. and a really lone fuel line. seems to fix it have to wait till next meet toi test it. still flames out a bit but. it runs at 110 degress c what they suppose to run at.
i use 16 % nitro and have a nova rossi nsr12 s3.
if ya can tell me what temp i can tune to that.
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Old 01-21-2006, 06:56 PM   #9671
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I had this problem, the seal on the tank lid is crap had air leaks on two tanks. one with an o-ring is much better, so I got a mugen prospec lid and a bigger o-ring. that fixed the problem. prior to that my engine was cooking.

or you could modify the carbon upper deck to fit a MTX-4 tank (my mate did this).

either of those should fix your problem, if not there must be a hole in the lines somwere or an air leak on the engine itself.
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:14 PM   #9672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
I had this problem, the seal on the tank lid is crap had air leaks on two tanks. one with an o-ring is much better, so I got a mugen prospec lid and a bigger o-ring. that fixed the problem. prior to that my engine was cooking.

or you could modify the carbon upper deck to fit a MTX-4 tank (my mate did this).

either of those should fix your problem, if not there must be a hole in the lines somwere or an air leak on the engine itself.
Thats a pretty sweeping statement. I have had 4 HPI tanks, none of which have caused an air leak. In fact air in the fuel lines is not always a problem and is quite often diagnosed as the problem why an engine keeps quitting. The motor tune itself can often cause air in the lines from the motor overheating or a too lean LSN, not to mention holes in the fuel tubing or even an improperly seated HSN.

However your advice does sound on the money for a fix IF the motor is quitting from the bubbles and if its from the tank itself. A friend of mine in fact has a defective MTX4 tank right now, so its not a silver bullet.
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:17 PM   #9673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
yeah armol in the fuel seem to work better. and a really lone fuel line. seems to fix it have to wait till next meet toi test it. still flames out a bit but. it runs at 110 degress c what they suppose to run at.
i use 16 % nitro and have a nova rossi nsr12 s3.
if ya can tell me what temp i can tune to that.
Do not tune to a temperature full stop. The only thing to worry about with temp is it getting too hot. Do not exceed 130 degrees for a long period. The motor may run between 125 to 100 degrees depending on the weather. A lot of tuning advice given from overseas does not hold in some of our Australian weather, sometimes you have to get them hot to make best power.

What fuel are you using, some hobby store stuff is awful. What glowplug are you using, and is it new?
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:33 PM   #9674
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fuel iam using is 16% glo-max and a super glow 8 plug.
i had a leak around the lid on my tank. and mad longer fuel lines and pressure and also put armour all in the fuel gee it dont bubble at all now does it. haha that is funny trick wonder how ya found that out.
it runs better still get flame out's but. anyone got bas settings for high and low needle. or nova nsr12 s3? turbo version thanks.
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:21 PM   #9675
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Ive got a nova , I found these base settings somewhere and im pretty sure its the same for a lot of them.

Novarossi (General Base Carb Settings)
Low Speed: 3.25 turns out
High Speed: 4.75 turns out
Mid-Range: Flush with the carb body
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