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Old 12-30-2005, 04:13 PM   #9466
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That won't be the case much longer. I'll be ordering mine when I go back to Orlando for the spring semester. I've been practicing with VRC until then, hope it'll help me when I get to race for real.
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Old 12-30-2005, 04:23 PM   #9467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B.LaFrance
That won't be the case much longer. I'll be ordering mine when I go back to Orlando for the spring semester. I've been practicing with VRC until then, hope it'll help me when I get to race for real.
I dont think VRC is going to help when it comes to the real thing..
happy racing.....
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:04 PM   #9468
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Were you using the usb adapter so you can use your radio. Ive been wanting to get that so I can at least sort of practice.

I hear its pretty good. Only problem I see from VRC is the local superior race is a parkinglot track. Very tight and theres nothing like that on VRC at least from what Ive seen.

I also hear daytonas track has gotten a lot better off-road and on-road. Im going to hit that area up soon.
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Old 12-30-2005, 09:59 PM   #9469
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Question for those who have gotten your R40 clutchs running well. I have always had trouble with slipping on mine.

I switched the grey mugen pad. That seemed to help some but its still slipping. I hear sometimes people talk about a glazed clutch bell. What do you do to combat that.

Also what other tips do you have to get your clutches to run well. Besides going mugen clutch, which I have bought. But I dont give up that easy and want to get the r40 clutch to run well. Or basically give a full run down on what you did or have on there and how you set it up. Maybe im missing something.

Thanks.
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:08 PM   #9470
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not sure if anyone is interested...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=94182
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Old 12-31-2005, 12:23 AM   #9471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Were you using the usb adapter so you can use your radio. Ive been wanting to get that so I can at least sort of practice.

I hear its pretty good. Only problem I see from VRC is the local superior race is a parkinglot track. Very tight and theres nothing like that on VRC at least from what Ive seen.

I also hear daytonas track has gotten a lot better off-road and on-road. Im going to hit that area up soon.
Yep, I've been using the USB adapter and from my limited experience bashing my old RTR Nitro 3 over a year ago, I think this program does a pretty good job of simulating the dynamics of an RC car. There is even a work around in the new version that lets you play dual player over the internet which is quite fun, too.

Let me know how the Daytona track turns out. Do you know if you can just show up with your car and race, or have to be a member of the club?

Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
I dont think VRC is going to help when it comes to the real thing..
happy racing.....
I wasn't expecting it to until I saw this thread over on their forums:
http://www.virtualrc.com/forums/foru...id=5&ftid=2153

Maybe the guy was just some prodigy, but getting TQ the first time out makes a pretty good testimonial.

Even if the handling isn't 100% accurate, all of the setup adjustments effect the car realisticaly, so I can at least learn basic setup techniques. And if nothing else, it'll give me a little more confidence when I finaly do start racing.
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Old 12-31-2005, 05:56 AM   #9472
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Yeah I would say its better than showing up at the track without anything. As well would think it would give some confidence for sure.

Also a little update on my clutch. I checked around a few places and saw two big racers talk about this.

If the clutch is glazed they rough it up. Well I thought hey it does look pretty smooth and shiney. So I took some rough grit sandpaper and made scratches going from the inside to the outside of the circle.

They said they would rough up the bell and the clutch shoe. I went ahead and did that and hopefully will get some good results from it.
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:39 AM   #9473
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i just loosen the clutch spring off a bit sure it engages earlier, but it engaes with less force pushing it away from clutch bell. so less chance to slip just tune your engine different, i have a r40 o with nova nsr12 s3 and never had it slip not once. even in a full slide. only strip pinnions hehehe.
hope that helps.
o did that steering tip fix, your problem about tighting up your servo saver?
i will get sum pics up soon. so ya can all have a look see.
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:55 AM   #9474
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The only problem I have with the clutch is that it likes to eat the flanged bearing that goes on the pinion side of the bell. Have to replace it every month to month & a half. Many engines come from the mfg with a collet & no spacer. The most important thing to remember is the spacer that goes between the engine bearing & the collet. If you don't have this spacer you will always have too much slop & slip in it no matter how many of those adjustment shims you use. Hope this helps some of you at least.
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:01 AM   #9475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
i just loosen the clutch spring off a bit sure it engages earlier, but it engaes with less force pushing it away from clutch bell. so less chance to slip just tune your engine different, i have a r40 o with nova nsr12 s3 and never had it slip not once. even in a full slide. only strip pinnions hehehe.
hope that helps.
o did that steering tip fix, your problem about tighting up your servo saver?
i will get sum pics up soon. so ya can all have a look see.
Im going to tear down the front tonight. So far havent noticed any problems for some reason.

Not sure if I just plain ol swapped the servo already.
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Old 12-31-2005, 03:01 PM   #9476
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here is my r40, would shouw you underneath but it very dirty so maybe later
Attached Thumbnails
HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-img_0603.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-img_0604.jpg  
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:56 PM   #9477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBagRacing
The only problem I have with the clutch is that it likes to eat the flanged bearing that goes on the pinion side of the bell. Have to replace it every month to month & a half. Many engines come from the mfg with a collet & no spacer. The most important thing to remember is the spacer that goes between the engine bearing & the collet. If you don't have this spacer you will always have too much slop & slip in it no matter how many of those adjustment shims you use. Hope this helps some of you at least.
If you are blowing the flange bearing, your clutch is slipping. That's usually what causes that bearing to fail.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:59 PM   #9478
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it is not the bearing it is stripping the 1st gear on the clutch bell.
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Old 01-03-2006, 12:02 AM   #9479
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AI- if your clutch is slipping, make sure that your not tightening the spring too much. If the spring can't compress far enough, the clutch shoe won't press hard enough on the clutch bell. I had to get my end play down to almost nothing to get enough travel remaining on the spring to allow solid engagement.
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Old 01-03-2006, 12:07 AM   #9480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
it is not the bearing it is stripping the 1st gear on the clutch bell.
I was replying to Gbag in my post.

Are you still having the trouble with your pinions loostening up? If so, did you check the 2 speed like I had posted back a couple of pages? Did you find any problems there?
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