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Old 12-11-2005, 11:01 PM   #9316
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Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
Dana said it was the last onroad of the year...
Guess I'll have to practice before the end of the year then.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:33 PM   #9317
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I'm thinking that Steve (speedtechrc/maxxtruck.com) will have something to fix it...he has all sorts of likely fixes on the website. I'm probably going out there tomorrow...

When you going to the track? Maybe we can have an R40 support group meeting.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:54 PM   #9318
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RapidRoy,

What is the turnout like at La Mirada? Do you use foams or rubber tires? Is the track behind the fire station close to the park? If it is, I been there once to watch electric sedans race. How's the competition?

Joe,
I'll be in Seattle this week for work, so I can't put in any practice time. Maybe next week.
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Old 12-12-2005, 05:39 AM   #9319
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About the rear camber links, fastharry had a couple of solutions. One was usnig Tmax links and ends that were a bit beefier. The other was to use a strip of carpenters fixer. Kind of like a strip of really thin metal that you insert into the end before you screw in the rod. He got it at the hardware store. Its used to repair stripped out wood screws.


the tmaxx ends were made by pro line....but for some reason,they stopped making them......


the carpenter's fixer are foil strips with little holes in them...you cut a thin 1/8th inch strip off....put in the the hole...and tighten the turnbuckle in....does agood job also.....


here's a picture of the tmaxx ends......
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:18 AM   #9320
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Now those are beefy.
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Old 12-12-2005, 01:32 PM   #9321
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Gearing

Stock gearing on the LW 2speed is 22/29 60/54. The different between the spurs is 6 but the different between pinions is 7. I ordered a 20/26 pinion set for the R40 to try. Anyone who have new gearing settings think it will run just fine with the stock spurs or no? According tot he charge it says I can use either of those settings, though I'm a little skeptical about it. My Rody doesn't make that much top as the newer version so I figured try a shorter gearing so the car gets more acceleration.
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Old 12-12-2005, 04:29 PM   #9322
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Originally Posted by dnitro
RapidRoy,

What is the turnout like at La Mirada? Do you use foams or rubber tires? Is the track behind the fire station close to the park? If it is, I been there once to watch electric sedans race. How's the competition?

Joe,
I'll be in Seattle this week for work, so I can't put in any practice time. Maybe next week.
Turnout is okay. Usually 2 heats of nitro sedan, 1 rookie and 1 sportsman/pro. Last couple, I have dropped into the rookie cause the other class was full, and, well, I kinda suck. I did manage to win the rookie class last race by beating my son. Passed him with 2 laps to go after a bad crash at the beginning of the race. I run foams there too. 37's last time if I remember correctly. Tire wear was low too. Traction is decient.

The track IS located behind the fire station. Very relaxed and they race lots of funny stuff too, like monster trucks, F1, Micro and stuff. Fun to watch. I also like to run my micro RS4 there against the micro MT's.

If there is a large enough turnout, Charlie runs a sportsman and a pro nitro. The good nitro guys are pretty fast.
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Old 12-12-2005, 04:31 PM   #9323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Stock gearing on the LW 2speed is 22/29 60/54. The different between the spurs is 6 but the different between pinions is 7. I ordered a 20/26 pinion set for the R40 to try. Anyone who have new gearing settings think it will run just fine with the stock spurs or no? According tot he charge it says I can use either of those settings, though I'm a little skeptical about it. My Rody doesn't make that much top as the newer version so I figured try a shorter gearing so the car gets more acceleration.
The lower rotating mass of the LW 2 speed allows the car to accelerate the same even though the gearing is higher. I don't run the LW 2 speed yet, but all the guys that run them have said this is true.
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Old 12-12-2005, 04:54 PM   #9324
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Thumbs up

Hmm...so it seemed that way although I still bought shorter pinions just to see if there'd be an improvement in acceleration. The last choice would be just to get a faster engine and possibly going to the Nova N12 Modified or the JP Modified.
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:14 PM   #9325
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out of all the options on my r40....the .08 gearbox addition was the most dramatic difference.........

btw...the graphite brake disc was the worst....
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:36 PM   #9326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry
out of all the options on my r40....the .08 gearbox addition was the most dramatic difference.........

btw...the graphite brake disc was the worst....
Doh , I own it...but havent tried it yet. What was the problem with that one.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:30 PM   #9327
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Doh , I own it...but havent tried it yet. What was the problem with that one.

simple.....no brakes...I just picked up the (HPI)stainless r40 driilled disc..and the hara one piece motor mount........hopefully the option disc is the ticket........
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:19 PM   #9328
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I think I found my answer...it's gonna work out just fine.

Went to SpeedtechRC and Steve helped me figure out how to do it.

Mugen rod ends (H0855) MBX-5
Mugen Ti turnbuckles (H0863) MTX-3
Yokomo steel ball set (ZC-401C)MR-4TC
3X10 buttonhead screw

I have pics, but I don't have a decent photo editor on this computer yet...they're too large as-is. I'll post them later on tonight after I cut them down...works good though. The rod ends are beefy in a different way.

On my postal scale, the stock stuff weighs .3oz and the mugen stuff is .1oz. Not exactly scientific resolution...but pretty good.

Edit: Just figured out what the parts are from...

Last edited by Turbo Joe; 12-12-2005 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:15 PM   #9329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
I think I found my answer...it's gonna work out just fine.

Went to SpeedtechRC and Steve helped me figure out how to do it.

Mugen rod ends (H0855)
Mugen Ti turnbuckles (H0863)
Yokomo steel ball set (ZC-401C)
3X10 buttonhead screw

I have pics, but I don't have a decent photo editor on this computer yet...they're too large as-is. I'll post them later on tonight after I cut them down...works good though. The rod ends are beefy in a different way.

On my postal scale, the stock stuff weighs .3oz and the mugen stuff is .1oz. Not exactly scientific resolution...but pretty good.
by using these parts, what exactly are you gaining, i can see weight loss. But are they stronger? and can you still adjust them to hpi spec sheets or do you have to adjust them according to your own taste?

also will the rd logic turbo 3 pipe work goof with the o.s. .12 3 port motor, or do you guys recommend anther pipe..?
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:08 PM   #9330
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Originally Posted by dark_one22
by using these parts, what exactly are you gaining, i can see weight loss. But are they stronger? and can you still adjust them to hpi spec sheets or do you have to adjust them according to your own taste?
If you would just take a look at the pictures I haven't yet posted...LOL...

Basically, they're a solid stack at the 1.5* camber I usually run. I can trim a tiny bit off the ends to get more or loosen them to get less...but they definitely won't get collapsed like the stock setup. I think the rod ends and turnbuckles are off an MTX-3...not too sure, though.

Plus, the inner stud attaches to the shock tower with a 3X10 button head, so you don't need to use a nut anymore.
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