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Old 12-02-2005, 02:43 PM   #9211
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Originally Posted by dark_one22
i was looking at some tools today and was wondering

1: what sizes does the r40 use? standard or metric?

2: whats good set of tools, certain brand over anther?

I seem to be in the minority here, but I use MIP drivers. I've been around for a while, and they were the best available back in the day. I haven't had any noticable wear in my years, although I don't race all that often. I only have time enough to lurke here mostly. The thing I like most about them is that each different tip has a different size handle. Really expensive too. $11 or $12 each and they only sell seperatly.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:08 PM   #9212
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Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I'm gonna stay with my R40 the way it is and purchase the front oneway and LW chassis. That's all I need for my ride.
Yeah I hope the hara chassis is affordable once more people carry it, as well as easily compatible. Would be a shame if you needed to get every part for it to work.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:52 PM   #9213
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah I hope the hara chassis is affordable once more people carry it, as well as easily compatible. Would be a shame if you needed to get every part for it to work.
An upgrade kit would really be great. For just the chassis upgrade you would need the top deck, fuel tank, steering linkage and maybe bell cranks. Maybe the servo mounts too.
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:42 PM   #9214
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Just to let you guys know. Tower has dropped the price on the hara kit to $449.

This sound a bit better.
A HA , I knew I wasnt crazy. Tower has brought the price on the hara back to $499. That sucks.....
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:17 PM   #9215
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Found these places for $460:
http://h1071258.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=HPI816

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...?ProdID=HPI816

However, considering tower has the special discount, it will just end up with same price. (thats probably why it raised back to 500)
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:35 PM   #9216
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Im about to order the screw kit from rcscrewz and was wondering if it bought screws for the whole car or only for the bottom of the chassis, because i would like to build the front and rear end, but not if ill be getting new screws... thank you
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:38 PM   #9217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dark_one22
Im about to order the screw kit from rcscrewz and was wondering if it bought screws for the whole car or only for the bottom of the chassis, because i would like to build the front and rear end, but not if ill be getting new screws... thank you
I think whole car.
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:45 PM   #9218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dark_one22
Im about to order the screw kit from rcscrewz and was wondering if it bought screws for the whole car or only for the bottom of the chassis, because i would like to build the front and rear end, but not if ill be getting new screws... thank you
Might as well get them for the whole car to help reduce overall weight.
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:49 PM   #9219
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thanks for the quick reply...

Yeah i want to do the whole, I was just wondering if thats was what it included..
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:43 PM   #9220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
Might as well get them for the whole car to help reduce overall weight.
RC screwz set is for the entire car. They are stainless steel NOT titanium, so they weigh the same as the stock screws. The difference is that they all use a 2mm hex head so no more phillips. The other thing is that all of the screws have machine threads. No sheet metal style threads. This makes installing and removing long screws into plastic take a LOT of turning. If you go too fast, the plastic heats up quite a bit too. I'm not sure if it gets hot enough to damage the plastic, but its get too hot to touch. I have the RC screwz on one of my R40's and the stock screws on the other. I don't really think its worth the cost for me. I got the car used with the screws in so I use it that way. My .02
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:55 PM   #9221
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Oh....I thought he was talking about the Ti screws Anyhow, I think it should worth it, first hex is easier to worth with than the stock phillips, second stainless steel doesnt get rusted easily like the stock steel ones but still offer the same strength. However, if you considering reducing the weight, you may better invest in some Ti screws. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-03-2005, 12:02 AM   #9222
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Hey Rapid Roy...where do you race at?

I just got my R40 and I think I was the only one at Revelation last week...
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Old 12-03-2005, 12:38 AM   #9223
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where can you find the ti screws???
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Old 12-03-2005, 06:04 AM   #9224
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getting ready to order a few things today from towerhobbies..

And was wondering about the one way dif... Now I know a little bit about diffs, I just installed a 2way diff in my real 240... so i know a little bit on how they work... but what would be the gain in going to a 1 way diff on the r40, is there all ready a 2 way diff or what.. im just a little confused and would like to know a little bit more before I shell out 30 bucks for something i dont need yet.... would i benifit from it... thank you for any response..

Edit: Also where do you guys buy you shock towers, I was looking at upgradeing those buy the rear one is 25bux , is there anthor company that makes them for less that you would recommend...

Eddie

Last edited by dark_one22; 12-03-2005 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 12-03-2005, 07:37 AM   #9225
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Unless your racing on a wide open sweeping track. A one-way will only cause you problems as you cant brake with it. Once installed any attempt to even use the brake will result in a instant 360. This is the MAJOR drawback of the one-way , but if your on a track like described you can get on the power earlier , harder and off power it turns in better so you can just coast around a big track at high speed.

What you can try though is the rear-solid diff in the front. You can find that on tower or ebay. Im not fully sure of the effects of that one but you do get braking. I think the only thing I hear is its rough on the car and I think you dont get as much turn in.....but if your looking to experiment with it , thats worth a try. That or getting another gear diff and loading it with a much thicker oil , like double whats in the front. This will limit action and cause almost the same effects as a solid , but be a bit more forgiving and have some diff effect instead of being solid.
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