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Old 11-26-2005, 06:10 PM   #9151
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I have. Ive tried just about every site outside of the us , and not because I felt like living on the edge. Sadly everyone offers different stuff.

If you want a fully optioned R40 , its what you have to do. I think I pretty much got every single option part available for the R40, minus maybe 4 aluminum parts. Its pretty sad there isnt a single place that offers most if not all parts for the R40.

EVEN HPI USA has things messed up for us. They dont show The HPI CG arms, urethane belts & ti pillow balls. All of which I think are worthwhile parts and have no real idea they dont even give us a clue to them exsisting.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:28 AM   #9152
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I guess I will give it a try then.. I never look at hpi-usa for anything.. thats kinda like going to the dealership to get a part for your 1-1 car.. too expensive.. :-)

I told myself I wan't going to upgrade my box stock r40, but would instead buy the 2004, well thats come and gone and now we have the hara edition..
it would be cheaper to buy that than all the upgrades, but $450 is hard to come up with at once.. but its easier to have the money trickle out of your pocket rather than leave a big hole..
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:57 AM   #9153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
anyone purchase from precisionrc.com before?
they have quite a bit of stuff for the r40 at good prices..
I made a purchase from these guys using a cc. after about 3 weeks I had nothing & contacted them. They said they weren't paid & that I should use paypal. I checked CC company they werent billed for it so I went to paypal & purchased that way. Well I got the stuff & was billed via pay pal & the cc. I tried to contact them about the double payment to try & work a credit out. THEY NEVER EVER REPLIED. THEY TOOK THE $ & RAN. DO NOT TRUST THESE GUYS.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:21 PM   #9154
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Ummmm , did you try a chargeback on your CC. Problem solved if you havent they will fix that.

But yeah sounds like I wouldnt use CC with them. I used paypal with them luckily I guess.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:23 PM   #9155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
I guess I will give it a try then.. I never look at hpi-usa for anything.. thats kinda like going to the dealership to get a part for your 1-1 car.. too expensive.. :-)

I told myself I wan't going to upgrade my box stock r40, but would instead buy the 2004, well thats come and gone and now we have the hara edition..
it would be cheaper to buy that than all the upgrades, but $450 is hard to come up with at once.. but its easier to have the money trickle out of your pocket rather than leave a big hole..
Gotta remember at that price from tower you get a discount, they usually have this program going on. For 100 , its 10 , 200 , 20 , 300 , 30.... But the hara edition from tower is about 419 with the discounts.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:41 PM   #9156
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Thanks for all the advise, everyone.......
Got the r40 yesterday and I must say the car looks mint/clean. Flipped the car over and rolled the flywheel and it feels good. I'm going to see if I can run over to Brooklyn Hobbies since there right there, and see if they can give the motor a quick look over and tune. Plus pick up a couple of things, like a battery, fuel, glowplug and a venom failsafe if they have.. (The seller did include a bottle of fuel, but i'm not sure how old it is so I don't want to use it..) I've heard bad gas will mess up your motor........ I also need them to look over the starter box and see what I need to get it running.

HarkannenD....I just got into this hobbie so i've never been to FloydBennett.... couple of friends told me about it and if I have my car up an running we might head out there next sat (weather permitting).
If the r40 isn't running for some strange reason, I might just run the 2 rs4 my friend hooked me up with.... but they do need a bit of cleaning and tuning...
Have to make sure the motors are still good, but these are going to be the cars I learn on so I don't crash up my r40... and thanks for your advise

Artificial-I....... thanks for the advise and the links for the parts....

I think i need to pick up a body, what's a good handling one.....?

Last edited by Dubbed_Monk; 11-27-2005 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:51 PM   #9157
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HPI: Dodge Stratus Aero2
Protoform: Stratus 3.1 , Mazda 6 , Cadillac CTS-VR , Nemesis
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:14 PM   #9158
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2 Questions: 1. I'm not convinced the rear swaybar is doing anything real here. I've disconnected the ball joints & the bar moves freely but not sloppy. When I reconnect & pull the tire up on one side it is way beyond the point at which the car would be skidding on the chassis before I see any movement on the other side. I've checked everything for binding including the rear arms & ball joints (with shocks removed as well) it all moves smoothly without binding?? Is this normal?

2. Using threaded shocks with the graphite shock tower (rear) I find that if the shock tops are mounted on the innermost lower position the ride height adjusters sit on the swaybar ( No this isn't why the above condition occurs. I have moved them out again to prevent the issue) is there a workaround for this? Has anyone tried reforming the swaybar? Or is this just a MFG fopa and I should just forget ever using the innermost positions?
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:05 AM   #9159
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ok, I got the motor cranked up and everything seems good, but i won't know till I get to run her for a bit..... I didn't have a battery pack so I couldn't drive her around and get the motor to a good temp. So I pick up a flatpack battery for the car from the lhs and it has a different end than my receiver?
The one on my car has a end with 2 holes and the one on the battery pack has 3.... I'm new to this, so can I get another battery pack with a different end that will fit the car?

after futher research the servo and receivers I have in the car is from a hpi savage...
Do u think i need to swap them out for something else.......?
I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the battery issue above.
Any advise what I should do...?

If you think I should swap the receiver or the servo's what would you reconmend.............
I'm on a bugget so I can't go crazy.....
Thanks
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:36 AM   #9160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBagRacing
2 Questions: 1. I'm not convinced the rear swaybar is doing anything real here. I've disconnected the ball joints & the bar moves freely but not sloppy. When I reconnect & pull the tire up on one side it is way beyond the point at which the car would be skidding on the chassis before I see any movement on the other side. I've checked everything for binding including the rear arms & ball joints (with shocks removed as well) it all moves smoothly without binding?? Is this normal?

2. Using threaded shocks with the graphite shock tower (rear) I find that if the shock tops are mounted on the innermost lower position the ride height adjusters sit on the swaybar ( No this isn't why the above condition occurs. I have moved them out again to prevent the issue) is there a workaround for this? Has anyone tried reforming the swaybar? Or is this just a MFG fopa and I should just forget ever using the innermost positions?
1. This is normal for the rear sway bar. It doesn't need to lift the other side, just compress it a bit. If you run on a medium or low bite track, you will probably end up removing the rear bar to increase rear traction.

2. You might need to tweak the sway bar a bit to get it to clear.
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:40 AM   #9161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbed_Monk
ok, I got the motor cranked up and everything seems good, but i won't know till I get to run her for a bit..... I didn't have a battery pack so I couldn't drive her around and get the motor to a good temp. So I pick up a flatpack battery for the car from the lhs and it has a different end than my receiver?
The one on my car has a end with 2 holes and the one on the battery pack has 3.... I'm new to this, so can I get another battery pack with a different end that will fit the car?

after futher research the servo and receivers I have in the car is from a hpi savage...
Do u think i need to swap them out for something else.......?
I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the battery issue above.
Any advise what I should do...?

If you think I should swap the receiver or the servo's what would you reconmend.............
I'm on a bugget so I can't go crazy.....
Thanks
Check the wires that go into the plug. There should be only 2 wires even if the plug has 3. Match up the pos and neg plugs and you will be good to go. Just keep the servo's you have and enjoy driving. Take the extra money and buy extra tires and fuel. Take your time setting up the car and pracitce driving as much as you can.
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:56 AM   #9162
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but the plug ends are different from each other, so won't be able to plug one end into the other..... ( the battery one has a end with 2 wires and 3 holes kinda flat and the one on the car has 2 hole and shaped differently)

I'm not going to have time to head to the lhs till sat, so I wanted to know if it's just a battery issue where they give me one with the wrong plug end.
I think it's the receiver cause the savage receiver uses a different battery pack where you pop in 4aa batteries....
Thanks
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Old 11-28-2005, 02:38 AM   #9163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBagRacing
2 Questions: 1. I'm not convinced the rear swaybar is doing anything real here. I've disconnected the ball joints & the bar moves freely but not sloppy. When I reconnect & pull the tire up on one side it is way beyond the point at which the car would be skidding on the chassis before I see any movement on the other side. I've checked everything for binding including the rear arms & ball joints (with shocks removed as well) it all moves smoothly without binding?? Is this normal?

2. Using threaded shocks with the graphite shock tower (rear) I find that if the shock tops are mounted on the innermost lower position the ride height adjusters sit on the swaybar ( No this isn't why the above condition occurs. I have moved them out again to prevent the issue) is there a workaround for this? Has anyone tried reforming the swaybar? Or is this just a MFG fopa and I should just forget ever using the innermost positions?
1. You are doing this without the shocks attached? If so then you need to crank down on the little 2mm grubscrews so the bar is firm but moves freely. If you still have the shocks attached, the spring rate of the bar does not exceed the spring rate of the shock springs, hence it wont move.

2. This will happen if you do not use the little extensions on the rear arms that angle the shock more.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:12 AM   #9164
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So Im really liking the r40 kit... looks awsome, and im really good at building stuff. in terms of rc, ive built about 4 kits. Rght now im looking at getting back into rc after not doing it for awhile. Anyway.. I want to get better at racing and mabey get into some compeition.. But Ive been checling out this drifting stuff and was thinking about the nrs4 3 with a stage d kit would be fun. but do not feel that it would be a good car to race with.. So I was wondering if anyone has been able to drift happly with th r40, Can I just smack on some drift tires and get it sidewayz every now and then, I was wondering this because all the stage d kit does is move your engine more to the center... but the r40 already has it placed in the center... so i reall dont see much of a diffrence... So what do you guys think??? I want to race but woudent mind some sidewayz action every now and then...

Eddie
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:40 AM   #9165
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The R40 is an efficient chassis and not only that can sport some serious high output motors.

I own an Racer2 as well (hopped up rs4-2 version). I ran exclusively rubber tires on the racer2 and last time I used it on the track felt like drifting it (since its old and bypassed now , its kinda my beater now).

Anyways beyond all that. Drift is a driving style + chassis setup. You can easily make anything drift , just drive it correctly.

On a side note I placed some rubber slicks on the R40 and with an overly strong motor , any sort of gas on a turn would result in the rear end kicking out or just resulting in a very slippery feeling car. Im sure good enough to drift with.

I tried playing around with some drift tires on my rs4-2 , it could barely move without doing instant 360. I even would take it up to speed slowly , then mash the throttle at high speed and instant 360's still. So maybe just a old slick would work (to where there isnt much traction left).
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