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Old 10-20-2005, 11:34 AM   #8956
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What bearing sets have you guys purchased. Also I just thought about this , would ceramic bearings also weigh less? Are there any bearing sets that might?

I purchased a set for cheap. They look ok quality. Im going to try these out soon. I thought the stock ones seemed alright?

But yeah im probably going to get something from boca very soon. That or maybe acer?
I have been running the "acer" ceramic bearings in my Mongoose for 3 or 4 months. I did break one of the bigger diff bearings but that is all. Super smooth and car will coast for ever after running out of gas and I think it made the car role better thru the corners. $99 bucks for the whole car ain't too bad either. They are a tiny bit lighter as well.
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:17 PM   #8957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
What bearing sets have you guys purchased. Also I just thought about this , would ceramic bearings also weigh less? Are there any bearing sets that might?
Bear in mind only the balls are ceramic (commonly silicon nitride) and there only a little lighter than the steel balls anyway. the bearing race and cage are normally made of steel, there about the same or very slightly less than the weight of all steel bearings.
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Old 10-20-2005, 05:28 PM   #8958
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My front steering rod ends have a very small amount of play in them. The play is where the round ends mount to the balls on the knuckles and the steering bar. I am talking about a very small amount of play, seems to be less than 1 degree for each side.

I've seen this play on other cars as well so I assume it is a fairly common thing. How do you account for this when setting front toe and steering angle on a setup station? Do you push the knuckles to a particular point when setting the front (like both fully in, both fully out, both fully left, both fully right)? If not do you just steer left, right, and then center the radio and setup the front from there?
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Old 10-20-2005, 05:31 PM   #8959
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You pull the wheel outwards...as going to positive toe, this is what they will go under forward power. At least if you set them with positive toe. Which + 0.5 toe is suggested.
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Old 10-20-2005, 06:33 PM   #8960
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hark i dont think u looked hard enough i've seen sets go for 200-400 dollars!! And Its like a 70$ difference if u get like 2 extra bearings...wow. Yea the engine bearings might as well have an upgrade... I dont know why it cant be like the c5 rody that alrdy has them...cept thats only twice as much as my engine plus a more...
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Old 10-20-2005, 07:48 PM   #8961
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So many people would shake my head if they saw me purchasing bearings for a tiny rc car that costs $200-$400...lol. I'm not doing any sort of racing or so right now...so the rides have been on lock down. I seldomly crank the engines once in a while or start em and run for a tank.
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Old 10-23-2005, 04:56 AM   #8962
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Default It's baccckkk!!

Just put on my friend's chassis that he gave me. Too bad the moron used an excessive amount of loctite...what kind I'm not sure. It's impossible to move the mounts nonetheless remove the screws. The gear mesh seems a tiny bit loose however showed no problem. The MT12 is staying in there for now. I don't intend on buying the LW chassis as of yet or think when will the Rody is going back into the R40. I do know a change of gear ratio may be made to the car just to get accelerating a bit faster. Maybe a 21/27 pinion set will work great since my engine isn't a revver like the other Rody's.
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:20 AM   #8963
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Tell ya the truth...may reconsider ordering parts from INTEGY if the LHS can get em. I'd like the front oneway for the car and maybe get a solid rear. Wonder how much lighter is that chassis as advertised.
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Old 10-23-2005, 08:03 AM   #8964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Just put on my friend's chassis that he gave me. Too bad the moron used an excessive amount of loctite...what kind I'm not sure. It's impossible to move the mounts nonetheless remove the screws. The gear mesh seems a tiny bit loose however showed no problem. The MT12 is staying in there for now. I don't intend on buying the LW chassis as of yet or think when will the Rody is going back into the R40. I do know a change of gear ratio may be made to the car just to get accelerating a bit faster. Maybe a 21/27 pinion set will work great since my engine isn't a revver like the other Rody's.

try heating the loctite with a heatgun....
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Old 10-23-2005, 08:13 AM   #8965
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You could also try applying a soldering iron to the screw.
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Old 10-23-2005, 10:43 AM   #8966
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using a tiny chisel and hammer works well when the screw head has completely gone! yeah it sounds brutal but the technique is to tap the chisel into one side of the head of the screw (hence why I said use a tiny chisel) to dig into and get a grip, then gently tap the chisel at the correct angle to undo the screw, its pretty damn effective, I think the sharp taps break the bond the the thread lock made and makes any m4+ screw a breeze to undo! worked for me on many occasions, also when the crappy + screws went on my r40 mounts like yours.
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Old 10-23-2005, 01:58 PM   #8967
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I tried a soldering iron and or a heatgun but it seems he ruined the screws. I guess I'll have to try the chisel technique. So basically take a chisel and tap the washer that the screw is sitting in to pop it off? It seems that he used threadlock pretty good as only ONE screw was able to come out.
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:14 PM   #8968
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PS, anyone know another good place other than RC boyz to get the LW chassis from that's cheap. I heard GPM's chassis isnt as light, and some others are a bit pricey. Hate to ask my friend to order the chassis from his LHS because he always forgets.
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:15 PM   #8969
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Craftsman has a tool thats meant to remove screws. You can also use a dremel and a cut off wheel and make a slit in the screw , allowing use of a flat head to get it out possibly. It might scratch the chassis some.
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:19 PM   #8970
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Yeah that too may work. I'll do that when I get back home and toss in my screws. May end up putting the Rody back into the R40. I wonder though how will the Ofna CD3 pro centax work in that car since the .8 gears are similair . Welp time for work. TTYL GUYS.
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