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Old 09-21-2005, 08:16 PM   #8851
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.18 cv-r fits in mine just fine. Just need the yokomo g4 header
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Old 09-21-2005, 08:18 PM   #8852
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Thanks.
Are there any carb problems with the RB?
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Old 09-21-2005, 09:23 PM   #8853
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The V12 line up runs really well and are very easy to tune. If you do go for a Rody stay with the 3 port standard. The ROAR and EFRA legal will not only cost you more, but they are a bit more finicky to tune. Otherwise when they run great they are noticably a bit faster. Still the standard rody which I have runs really great.
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Old 09-22-2005, 04:47 AM   #8854
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hi, i just purchased a hpi r40, very impressed. as this is my first move to pro nitro, just a few questions

1. what are sum tricks that you have found to make it handle well? from factory settings?

2. what measurments on the 2nd speed spring as i cant get mine into second gear.

the motor i have chossen is the novarossi nsr12 s3? is that a good choice with also a nova rossie pipe. cant remeber of the top of my head which one it is.

any little tricks about this car would be great and what option parts are actually worth getting,


thanks again.
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:46 AM   #8855
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The .18 TZ doesnt rev as high so you will want to change your gearing and the torque could be a bit much for it at such a low rpm making it semi hard to drive and fully apply power.

Where as the .12 is going to weigh less and its going to give you nice power in the tight sections and will rev out correctly on the straight , no need for new gearing. But you can get away with stock gearing on shorter tracks , its a difference of 5-6k rpm.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 09-22-2005 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:55 AM   #8856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
hi, i just purchased a hpi r40, very impressed. as this is my first move to pro nitro, just a few questions

1. what are sum tricks that you have found to make it handle well? from factory settings?

2. what measurments on the 2nd speed spring as i cant get mine into second gear.

the motor i have chossen is the novarossi nsr12 s3? is that a good choice with also a nova rossie pipe. cant remeber of the top of my head which one it is.

any little tricks about this car would be great and what option parts are actually worth getting,


thanks again.
1. Get the CF shock towers , then download some setups from hpi. Try those out. Thad garner & Hara have some good setups.

2. Just take the screw out as far as you can without allowing them to be touched. The diagram shows how far it should be in the manual. And make sure there is a hairline crack between the shoes.

3. Very nice motor. Hara ran that one I believe , with the rdlogic turbo II pipe. Its a very good combo. Just beware of the bending stinger. I would try the CVEC pipe. Its got a very strong pipe & stinger and performs better from what I heard than the rdlogic.
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Old 09-22-2005, 08:07 AM   #8857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
both made by sts, my r40 is a complete bang for buck setup. my intentions were to not spend much on any part of the car, hence the lack of light weight parts but to do free stuff like set it up to the best of my ability and drive the wheels off it! and reduce weigh by other means other than spending loads on titanium and carbon bits.
its pretty fun to see people having a hard time keeping up with me at my club when my whole car, engine and electrics cost less than there single nova race engine
When I look at it the R40 w/ the CF shock towers, LW shafts (both), LW 2speed, and LW chassis costs almost as much as the MTX3 Prospec!
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Old 09-22-2005, 08:08 AM   #8858
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I have everything, but the chassis so I spent total is nearly $400. I wonder what it would've been like running stock with the Rody though. The gears do seem adequate for the track, though with the LW stuff it's taller gear ratio doesn't seem much slower than a shorter gearing.
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Old 09-22-2005, 09:46 AM   #8859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
When I look at it the R40 w/ the CF shock towers, LW shafts (both), LW 2speed, and LW chassis costs almost as much as the MTX3 Prospec!
That why Im happy I got a 2004 edition for 250.
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Old 09-22-2005, 10:28 AM   #8860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Just take the screw out as far as you can without allowing them to be touched.
that sorted it for me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
3. Very nice motor. Hara ran that one I believe , with the rdlogic turbo II pipe. Its a very good combo. Just beware of the bending stinger. I would try the CVEC pipe. Its got a very strong pipe & stinger and performs better from what I heard than the rdlogic.
and then again Hara has Maxy to tune his engine have you seen the new turbo III pipe with the strengthened stinger? if it gives a good tune like the old turbo II and is stronger I might be tempted.
Are you running your CVEC pipe yet ai? I remember you saying you were getting one or sumit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I have everything, but the chassis so I spent total is nearly $400. I wonder what it would've been like running stock with the Rody though. The gears do seem adequate for the track, though with the LW stuff it's taller gear ratio doesn't seem much slower than a shorter gearing.
its mad when you add up the costs isnt it, but then again it has to be done I guess, the r40 is really bloated out of the box imo.
The conversion kit seems a very cost effective way of getting the r40 to competitive level, its listed as 18,000 yen which is about 160 usd. but it only seems available to the Japanese market short of doing what AI did and just get a whole new car I'm not sure what to do
Why oh why cant we get the conversion kit??
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:10 PM   #8861
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You can order the conversion kit from Japan. They ship world wide.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:18 PM   #8862
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really, I best learn japanese pronto then
thanks roy
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:29 PM   #8863
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I found it hard to order over seas. It's just something I can't really trust and always wait for. Arg..
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Old 09-22-2005, 03:12 PM   #8864
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so get sum setup sheets from hpi?
and change the front what? shock tower?

yes in the manual it said .5-.8mm but it still doesnt seem t change?
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Old 09-22-2005, 04:16 PM   #8865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
so get sum setup sheets from hpi?
and change the front what? shock tower?

yes in the manual it said .5-.8mm but it still doesnt seem t change?
are you sure your adjusting the right thing here? that measurement relates to the clutch adjustment nut not the 2 speed clutch.
basically if your having problems with the 2 speed clutch engaging do as it says in the manual (tighten then unscrew 5 turns out if i remember correctly) and then place the 2 speed assembly into the 2 speed clutch bell/ball what ever its called and keep adjusting the 2 grub screws equally until the shoes just about make contact with the face of the clutch bell/ball thingy and then back off a fraction of a turn.
ai was referring to the optional carbon fibre shock tower as a worth while upgrade and as a basis use some of the pros setups to get you going.
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