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Old 09-19-2005, 05:03 PM   #8821
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Thanks for the info. I will try the adjustments next week. The car is stable, but it just doesn't turn the way I wanted it to.

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Originally Posted by ChrisR40
I will to the best of my abbility. I will have to check my set-up tonight and let you know later. This is what I know off the top of my head.

Front.
40 wt. oil with ae copper springs in the upper outer mount on the carbon shock tower.
1 deg. toe-in
caster and camber? will check tonight
drop not sure and ride hight is 6mm, sway bar at kit setting
35 shore GQ foams

Rear
30 wt. oil with ae green springs inner most hole on carbon shock tower and do not have the extension on the arm.
3 deg. toe-in
2 deg. camber
ride height 5mm
silver sway bar (sofest)
drop ?
use the 2 deg. suspension blocks
extended the wheel base. have a 2mm shim in front of the arm and 5mm shim behind the arm
35 shore GQ foams

hop-ups
LW chassis, carbon shock towers, LW shafts, LW engine mounts, carbon battery cover, ball bearing steering, and acer ceramic nitrade ball bearings.

Engine is an Infinity Katana 512 with RDLogics Turbo II pipe with Sidewinder 30% fuel

I do not have the tools to measure drop so I can not give you that info.

The car had a lot of grip and still needs to be tweaked on. The car is close but it feels like it is missing something and I can not think of it.

If there is any other info you need please feel free to ask
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:55 PM   #8822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellc1
Recently I purchased an R40. Compared with my MTX-3 and RRR, it seems to understeer pretty bad. The steering is slow even with a 0.06 sec airtronic steering servo. My setup is similar to Hara's, but with 4mm in front and 4.5mm in the rear for ride height. For the tires, I am currently running 45 in the front and 42 in the rear. Plus I adjusted toe out to 3 on each side. I tried using the 42 in the front, but they were gripping too hard causing the rear to lift. Thanks
Wendell - I have tons of steering...

45s on the front is one problem, go with 40's and readjust the set-up from there. Also, you should only need 1 deg tow out in the front and 2 deg toe in for the rear. Front camber is critical and should be around 2 degrees (front)for starters and 2 degrees in the rear. Make sure your front sway bar is horizontal and also make sure your transmitter isnot limiting the amount of steering you have! Do all of this and your back end will be spinning around your front with ease!!
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Old 09-19-2005, 08:03 PM   #8823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Ride Height. But feel free to include adjusting droop. I know for droop, Iam also confused on which areas to adjust for what.
when you adjust the ride height the camber changes.

with droop gauge/blocks you measure from the bottom of the uprights

measuring ride height, you want the car with tires to be used mounted. push the car down equally front and rear (work the suspension) from the lowest, farthest point from the center of the car (using 1 hand for front 1 hand for rear). then gradually remove pressure. you want to decompress the suspension equally front and rear to avoid imbalance.

carefully slip the hpi ride height gauge (the step type i find is the best, less guessing and fits under the bumper better then sloped ones) under the car and measure the ride height from the points on the chassis where the droop screws contact it. every time you adjust one shock you want to "work the suspension" then start adjusting more.

after adjusting the ride height you want to adjust camber. adjusting camber will affect ride height, so after camber, its ride height again. then you want to use the "lift" technique to check tweak (lift chassis from center point, ex: front left lifts before front right, loosen (increase tension) rear right shock collar).

i could go on and on but i feel im being redundant. sorry!
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Old 09-19-2005, 08:49 PM   #8824
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Cool, thanks for the responses and keep em coming.

Another question is with raising the collar on the shock body which lowers the ride height , the compression on the spring also lowers which im guessing reduces the spring rate as well. Is this correct?

Is there anyway to go about changing ride height while not adjusting the shock collar? While also on the subject of shocks. What effect does increasing/decreasing the shock length do?

It seems to me with raising or lowering the car the shock collar method there is basically a certain amount the R40 can go up or down. Where as at certain points it can move with slight adjustments.....towards the end of the spectrums. When trying to get that extra ride height it seems to just make the suspension overly stiff. When im looking at more height, not stiffness. Same goes with trying to get it low. When I want the car quite a bit lower the suspension becomes so soft that a slight touch makes it bottom out.

Which kinda irritates me. It seems as though the car is just begging for more uptravel....or rideheight or something so the ranges arent so extreme. It seems like on all my other cars....kinwald edition buggy , adam drake truck , even the racer2. The shock collar adjustment method is effective and you can get it higher or lower a good amount while it doesnt seem to effect spring rate as bad.

Maybe all pro level nitro cars are like this , or maybe its the R40?? Has anyone else noticed this?
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Old 09-19-2005, 09:04 PM   #8825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Is there anyway to go about changing ride height while not adjusting the shock collar? While also on the subject of shocks. What effect does increasing/decreasing the shock length do?
I just adjust the grub screw on the wishbones equally side to side to get the desired rh but if you dont adjust the shock collars to suit you end up with excess spring preload. not sure really
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Old 09-20-2005, 05:09 AM   #8826
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for sale

www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=84453
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Old 09-20-2005, 08:10 AM   #8827
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comments in bold

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Cool, thanks for the responses and keep em coming.

Another question is with raising the collar on the shock body which lowers the ride height , the compression on the spring also lowers which im guessing reduces the spring rate as well. Is this correct?
OPTIMALLY you want the spring to have slack on the shock body so that it is not compressed when the car is on blocks or off the ground. if it is compressed slightly i would not worry but if it's very tense somethings off somewhere else on the car. you're basically forcing the arm against the droop screw in this case when you crank on that collar

Is there anyway to go about changing ride height while not adjusting the shock collar? While also on the subject of shocks. What effect does increasing/decreasing the shock length do?
if you want more ride height you will want to decrease droop. this is because the droop screws are limiting the down travel of the arms and thus you cannot go beyond a certain ride height without loading the spring up.
however, you are not to adjust ride height with the droop screws. the droop is ONLY for limiting the down travel of the arm. you can prevent bottoming out by raising the bump screws (which limit the up travel of the arm). measuring this is up travel is not too reliable so i would recommend no bump screw.
shock length is related to droop. if the shock can't extend to support the arm with a certain droop, then you're gonna end up with more droop then you set. likewise if the shock extends further you'll be safe when you decrease droop. i would go with the stock length i believe its 67mm or so.. a little longer doesn't hurt but you don't want the threads exposed on the bottom where the shaft screws to the ball end or dirt can get pushed inside the bottom of the shock because the threads are smaller then the shaft guide hole. with a caliper make sure ALL shocks are the same length. if you don't do this it will show in other areas of setup.

[/b]

It seems to me with raising or lowering the car the shock collar method there is basically a certain amount the R40 can go up or down. Where as at certain points it can move with slight adjustments.....towards the end of the spectrums. When trying to get that extra ride height it seems to just make the suspension overly stiff. When im looking at more height, not stiffness. Same goes with trying to get it low. When I want the car quite a bit lower the suspension becomes so soft that a slight touch makes it bottom out.
lets say you're borrowing hara's 04 nats setup. with 3.5 rear droop you won't have much room to increase ride height.
in terms of getting the ride height low and bottoming out.. go through the setup again and recheck. if you go too low you will obviously bottom out. even at 4mm. sometimes 5mm if its a bumpy track!
also if you're using red proceed springs they tend to bind on touring car shocks so get the gold rears instead. they're the exact same spring rate and the spring will sit nicely.


Which kinda irritates me. It seems as though the car is just begging for more uptravel....or rideheight or something so the ranges arent so extreme. It seems like on all my other cars....kinwald edition buggy , adam drake truck , even the racer2. The shock collar adjustment method is effective and you can get it higher or lower a good amount while it doesnt seem to effect spring rate as bad.

Maybe all pro level nitro cars are like this , or maybe its the R40?? Has anyone else noticed this?
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Old 09-20-2005, 08:25 AM   #8828
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you have to remember one thing........hara's set up is based on 58 mm tires........take his set up on untrued 65 mm tires and look at the diffference in arm angles....
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Old 09-20-2005, 02:07 PM   #8829
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The gold and red spring are close, but the red spring is shorter. I thought that was the reason hara uses that?

Last edited by Artificial-I; 09-20-2005 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 09-20-2005, 03:29 PM   #8830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry
you have to remember one thing........hara's set up is based on 58 mm tires........take his set up on untrued 65 mm tires and look at the diffference in arm angles....
thats a good point. I initially overlooked that. when I was running foams I used untrued tires and noticed how different it setups the suspension angles compared to hara.
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Old 09-20-2005, 03:33 PM   #8831
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a couple of photos of my r40 while its still clean....
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn0655s.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn0439s.jpg  
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Old 09-20-2005, 06:14 PM   #8832
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Thanks, I will try it this weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Wendell - I have tons of steering...

45s on the front is one problem, go with 40's and readjust the set-up from there. Also, you should only need 1 deg tow out in the front and 2 deg toe in for the rear. Front camber is critical and should be around 2 degrees (front)for starters and 2 degrees in the rear. Make sure your front sway bar is horizontal and also make sure your transmitter isnot limiting the amount of steering you have! Do all of this and your back end will be spinning around your front with ease!!
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Old 09-20-2005, 08:07 PM   #8833
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Hesky-Thats a purrty lookin ride. Makes me wonder why'd I spend the $$ on em LW stuff.
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:18 PM   #8834
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Thanks for the offer FastHarry,I just might take you up on it!I've got to see what i break next!
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Old 09-21-2005, 04:40 AM   #8835
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Default R40 on Ebay

90 % Aluminum R40 on Ebay, item # 6000488781
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