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Old 09-12-2005, 07:21 PM   #8776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry
are they out of stock?..
The swaybar and the crossbraces; yes. They do show one crossbrace in inventory but I need both.

I might just have to be patient and wait.
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Old 09-13-2005, 04:17 PM   #8777
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Default R40, Mugen transplant

Hey guys,

Does anybody know if the Mugen Clutch Set for MTX-3 Prospec will fit on the R40 and if so, how? Details would be great. And do the R40 gears fit on the Mugen set? Thanks.
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Old 09-13-2005, 10:32 PM   #8778
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a-i: what is the condition of your clutch shoe (the circular shoe)?
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Old 09-14-2005, 01:34 AM   #8779
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The clutch is fine. Just needs a little cleaning and adjusting and I am good to go. The only problem is the thrust bearing and washer setup. Allways seems to loosen-up after a few stints around the track so I got rid of the thrust bearing and use a regular type bearing that fits..... I was wondering if he Mugen set is a better proposition with less hastles. To tell you the truth on my last "run" my clutch assembly was making these weird noises -like it was really dirty and grimmy- and it was not turning freely at idle and the car would switch of because of that. My best guess. Any ideas of where is the best place to buy online? Thanks...
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Old 09-14-2005, 03:07 AM   #8780
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Default clutch bells and thrust bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Hey guys just dissambled my clutch bell and noticed its warped. Anyone ever have this trouble.

ARTIFICIAL I.
you got to be honest with yourself, but im cocksure you warped it.

That thing cannot warp without human intervention. You probably used

a plier or a vise grip to counter the release of the hex screws. I

had 2 bells already on that process until i finally found out that

there is a special tool for that clutch bell. A new one is the

ultimate solution. No amount of correction can true a warped one.

MR. D.
if you think your clutch bell is making weird noises, think again, it

must be on the meshing of pinions and spurs. nOISE USUally comes from

tiny stones embedded on the gears. To find out, remove the engine and

let it run out of the car with the clutch, then conclude. If the

noise persist, consult your manual and remove teh whole thing, clean

it with toothbrush and WD40 and install it again accdg to specs.

note: teh thrust bearing is still the best part for that part of the car, not anyother bearing, try using a thread lock this time.
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Old 09-14-2005, 07:39 AM   #8781
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I used the universal pinion gear wrench from hpi to put it together. To get it off I just slip it off? I dont see any damage on the side of my body, its also brand new, not really sure what happened.
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Old 09-14-2005, 08:10 PM   #8782
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Well I tested the Rody in the CD3 pro and honestly to say I like how it runs on the track. This isn't good news for my current R40 kit! Still waiting for the Hara version to come out otherwise the $$ is going to a new .21 engine and Spektrum radio for my RC cars.
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Last edited by HarKonnenD; 09-15-2005 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 09-15-2005, 07:55 AM   #8783
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Klanderman: Your R40 w/ BMW body is on hpiracing.com reader rides section. Good stuff
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Old 09-15-2005, 02:30 PM   #8784
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Ran the racer2 a few days ago outside the house. Was very fun, like old times bashing. I installed one of my lightweight batteries for it and swapped out my old 9450 digital futaba for an s3003, also saving a few extra grams, figured the old basher didnt deserve such a nice servo anyway.

Car drove amazing, also couldnt tell the servo had been switched. I was almost positive I would tell as the racer2 is ultra twitchy. Still retained that twitch and turned great with the s3003. I want to get some video of it and its now my new backup car at the races. The thing just goes and goes and never stops. Full carbon graphite / carbon fiber parts on it. I think total it came to 1400grams w/o body. With body 1500.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 09-15-2005 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 09-15-2005, 03:13 PM   #8785
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any lighter and that car would catch wind and crash like hydroplanes . Not to mention crashing it would be a real bummer. I guess back when the racing 2 came out it was a simpler stage of rc then now. Just cause its so light doesnt mean its a better car Speaking of old cars... jus dug up some history on rc in the 70's 80's. i have got to say u had to blip the engine to keep it going. Also they are virtualing indestructable and one hit a telephone pole 50+ no damage . They was even a tale about a unhappy fan who kept grunting and asking y did u hit that car infront of u???(he never drove, doesnt know how 2 feet crash ahead isnt easy to avoid) Then a driver got fed up and let him drive He did and he turned out to be really bad and got embaressed to the extreme... . those cars had to be indestructable to let a totally new guy who thought it was easy to drive. BTW those controllers were MASSIVE like boxes with a switch and a dial wheel thing for steering. I thought it was cool....back to the Wildcat's days...lol
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Old 09-15-2005, 03:31 PM   #8786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
any lighter and that car would catch wind and crash like hydroplanes . Not to mention crashing it would be a real bummer. I guess back when the racing 2 came out it was a simpler stage of rc then now. Just cause its so light doesnt mean its a better car Speaking of old cars... jus dug up some history on rc in the 70's 80's. i have got to say u had to blip the engine to keep it going. Also they are virtualing indestructable and one hit a telephone pole 50+ no damage . They was even a tale about a unhappy fan who kept grunting and asking y did u hit that car infront of u???(he never drove, doesnt know how 2 feet crash ahead isnt easy to avoid) Then a driver got fed up and let him drive He did and he turned out to be really bad and got embaressed to the extreme... . those cars had to be indestructable to let a totally new guy who thought it was easy to drive. BTW those controllers were MASSIVE like boxes with a switch and a dial wheel thing for steering. I thought it was cool....back to the Wildcat's days...lol
Yeah I know its not a better car just cause its lighter. But its fun and its going to be my backup since its pretty much unstoppable. Its wrecked like crazy and it never breaks. The last thing that broke on the car was just the bumper and thats cause of its weak plastic connection between the chassis. Ive smacked it into about everything and it just keeps going and still drives true. Just is really twitchy, needs lots of input which is also kind of fun. But its been going for years in the same condition , along with the motor.

The lw 2 speed shifts perfect , clutch engages perfect and motor is in perfect tune. Too bad I cant get the same with my R40, even though its a much better car on the track.
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Old 09-15-2005, 08:31 PM   #8787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The lw 2 speed shifts perfect , clutch engages perfect and motor is in perfect tune. Too bad I cant get the same with my R40, even though its a much better car on the track.
I'm sure you'll get there soon
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Old 09-15-2005, 08:33 PM   #8788
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oh yeah ai, did you ever find a source for ti m4 cs hex screws for bolting down the engine mounts?? the heads are screwed on mine, need some stronger ones!!

cheers
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Old 09-15-2005, 08:42 PM   #8789
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I think I found phillips but not hex. The hex ones Im using at the moment seem to be pretty strong so im just going to hold off until later. I got them for free from my lhs so I was happy but dont know what they were.
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Old 09-15-2005, 08:55 PM   #8790
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yeah, I think I best just sort out some decent hex screws, be ti or steel. I had a dig around in my "big box of screws" but couldnt find any 8mm m4 hex's i darent use the old ones cuz i doubt i will get the motor of again!
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