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Old 09-06-2005, 12:06 PM   #8701
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
klanderman: Actually this question was brought up a few weeks ago by Tabushi on the forum. Here is the link: http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80719

I personally have used the futaba fsu1. The first version and it works fine for me.

I personally think it will be fine with a used nimh pack , brand new you might have some troubles. But I dont think its ever going to drop too quickly to where it wont be able to catch it. Which is really the only problem with running nimh's. If anything the battery failsafe portion wont work perfectly. But I highly doubt its not going to detect anything.
Thanks AI- I'll check it out....
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:54 PM   #8702
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Old 09-06-2005, 03:10 PM   #8703
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Well, just heres a report from my race weekend. Did pretty much terrible, well I really didnt do anything at all, basically never could get going.

After a little of tuning and getting no where as usual. I went to fire the motor up a few minutes before the 1st qualifier. Motor wouldnt fire, which has never happend. The motor will idle all day and starts up right away normally.

So I ran off got a new glow-plug battery. Fired right up, then a few seconds later nothing at all.

After a little frustration and missing the 1st qualifier I decided time to check the glow-plug. Sure enough wasnt getting any heat or glow.

Got a new glow-plug (went from an hpi r6 to a RB 6) yeah its a hotter plug, figured it would help my rich situation. Installed , fired right up!

Now I went to get it tuned to that plug, gave a few throttle blips and revs to clear out all the fuel I just sent through it trying to start it for 5-10minutes and the motor would die out after I let off the gas or went to full throttle. Motor also picked up a pretty wild low-end pop sound.

Well after finally getting it to stay idle through a good rev or two. I was satisfied and just shut it off to not further waste time and just waited for qualifier 2. Well around came the qualifier went to start the motor....and no go.

Finally got it to fire and it was right back to same problem, kept dying. I had no time to work with it so just ran up to the track and threw it on the track. Luckily I had a pit crew kinda this time. A friend showed up and was helping me and then some guy at the races was grabbing my car when it died on the track and was taking it over to my starter box and kept helping me out, tuning it a little and getting me back on the track.

Iam very glad there are people like this. He said he had been tuning for 15 years and had a good ear for the motor. He pretty much said it was detonating and the removal of shims from the motor was the wrong choice.

The motor died about 3 times on the track and was kind of dangerous as cars wizzed by it and I didnt want to cause any wrecks, so I kinda packed up and went home. Pretty sad too If I could have gotten a good finish I would have been able to win the series. But went home with pretty much terrible points due to the fact last time I was hacked from 1st place to 8th. This time didnt even get a full qualifier and didnt even make the top10 for the a-main.

Hopefully I get this motor issue worked out. Im tired of swapping motors so Im going to just try and try until I figure this out. Im no idiot to motor tuning and my nova rs5 and my d3r are just kicking my a**. Almost making me think im a noob, but my omega was perfect. Tuning was as simple as dial it in , watch the smoke and power then take it back 1/8th and checked the temps and it was ready to go.

Oh well, thats my little report.
I've had similar problems before. I ended up switching fuels and the problem went away. I was running the HPI power fuel and couldn't get my RB v12 to finish a race. It always wanted to flame out. fastharry posted about his same problems with the fuel so I switched to Odonnels and everything ran great. My sons HPI SR12 ( I think thats the number) ran great on the HPI fuel. Idled all day and never ran hot or flamed out. Last race I got lazy and decided to run both cars on Odonnels. His motor kept flaming out and wouldn't stay running for 2 qualifiers. I couldn't get it tuned correctly. I finally reset the needles and switched fuels back to the HPI stuff. He ran 2 full tanks durring the break before the main straight through. In the main, he almost beat me.

I don't really know why this is happening. I have never had issues with fuel like this before. Maybe I'm tuning incorrectly, running the wrong plug or wrong number of shims, but I have never messed with those things before. I have always run a hot plug and %20 nitro. I thought that I was pretty good at tuning nitro motors, but I am thinking that I may not be doing as well as I thought.

For now, I will use 2 different fuels. Maybe I'll mess with the tuning and fuels on a practice day, but I usually don't have the time to do that.
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:25 PM   #8704
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Originally Posted by JAG Racing
AI - I'll share with you a problem that has happened on a couple of my R40s. The symptom is the engine runs for about 1 - 2 minutes and then simply dies. It starts back up but after a few more minutes, it dies.

PROBLEM - Car vibrations were causing air bubbles in the gas tank which in turn leaned the engine out during driving only.

FIX - make sure your tank is isolated from the upper chassis plate using the proper silicone grommets to act as shock/vibration dampeners. I even had to enlarge the tank holes so that it wasnt so "tight" on the chassis. So , even if you have the silicone rings, you might need to open of the mounting holes to better isolate the chassis vibrations.

Hope this helps someone....
Iam noticing more air bubbles on my current R40. I will be sure to fix that so any trouble from that area is removed. Thanks for reminding me.

I always look over at it and go damn look at all those bubbles on this one. But it seems with the double than reccomended length fuel line I use it kinda collects in the middle of the loop I make. Basically what you recieve in your r40 kits. I use 2 of those , they are originally from the proceed. Which then went onto the racer2 kits and now the r40. I love that fuel line for some reason. Perfect thickness, ID and coloring.
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:28 PM   #8705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
I've had similar problems before. I ended up switching fuels and the problem went away. I was running the HPI power fuel and couldn't get my RB v12 to finish a race. It always wanted to flame out. fastharry posted about his same problems with the fuel so I switched to Odonnels and everything ran great. My sons HPI SR12 ( I think thats the number) ran great on the HPI fuel. Idled all day and never ran hot or flamed out. Last race I got lazy and decided to run both cars on Odonnels. His motor kept flaming out and wouldn't stay running for 2 qualifiers. I couldn't get it tuned correctly. I finally reset the needles and switched fuels back to the HPI stuff. He ran 2 full tanks durring the break before the main straight through. In the main, he almost beat me.

I don't really know why this is happening. I have never had issues with fuel like this before. Maybe I'm tuning incorrectly, running the wrong plug or wrong number of shims, but I have never messed with those things before. I have always run a hot plug and %20 nitro. I thought that I was pretty good at tuning nitro motors, but I am thinking that I may not be doing as well as I thought.

For now, I will use 2 different fuels. Maybe I'll mess with the tuning and fuels on a practice day, but I usually don't have the time to do that.
Glad to here Iam not the only one like this. I notice the same thing as well and also heard the same. I heard odonnels doesnt like novas , which is what I ran on my nova. I have some new fuel im going to try in that motor and im almost to the point of just trying white lightening 30%. That ought to throw a nice curve into the fuel tuning problems. Figuring everything I use has a good amount of oil and has always been 20%.

But yeah I thought I was a pretty good engine tuner. But with my nova and d3r im pretty thrown off with those motors. Which made me think im not good with pro motors. But I had an omega XT which ran great and the nova came to me used so who knows if it was already basically dead. While there still is hope for me tuning the d3r.
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Old 09-07-2005, 02:00 PM   #8706
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i have been out of the r/c car world for about 3 years now and want to build a new car have chosen these parts so far

HPI R40 Nitro Pro Touring Car Kit
HPI Nitro Star Pro .12R XS
Futaba 3PM 3-Channel FM/No Servos


i know i need to get servos and a tune pipe waht do you guys suggest and were can i het these items
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Old 09-07-2005, 02:20 PM   #8707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khain
i have been out of the r/c car world for about 3 years now and want to build a new car have chosen these parts so far

HPI R40 Nitro Pro Touring Car Kit
HPI Nitro Star Pro .12R XS
Futaba 3PM 3-Channel FM/No Servos


i know i need to get servos and a tune pipe waht do you guys suggest and were can i het these items

here ya go bud...

here's CVECs website... http://www.cvec-racing.com/ you can see the pipes there.......

the futaba 9550 is a low profile servo....great for the steering....(so it doesn't stick out as far)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXJ36&P=ML

you can also run that servo for throttle..but I run the futaba 3010..

great price...decent fast..good tourque....
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDTB3&P=ML
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Old 09-07-2005, 02:27 PM   #8708
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those CVEC pipes are way overpriced

i'd go with a $55 rd logics legal turbo-II..
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Old 09-07-2005, 03:08 PM   #8709
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A CVEC will last a little longer. I also hear it has some great low-end power.

I had major trouble with my stinger bending on the rdlogic. Im thinking my hpi skyline body I was running before was semi the problem, it was real close to the pipe. While my new mazda6 body is pretty far away, which I figure will protect it more. Im going to keep running the rdlogic till I get my motor tuning issues solved. Then im going to throw on that pipe and hopefully see how well it performs or what it changes when its on a properly performing car.

Or I might just say screw it and throw on the CVEC and hope it solves my problems.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 09-07-2005 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 09-07-2005, 03:25 PM   #8710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry

you can also run that servo for throttle..but I run the futaba 3010..

great price...decent fast..good tourque....
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDTB3&P=ML
Steering and throttle its a good servo. I have one on my car right now. Its also a bit lighter than some of the top of line ones, 9550 all around would be nice though if you got the dough. Its also lightweight and about as strong and the 9451, but is of course a digital servo and drains a little more on the batteries.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 09-07-2005 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 09-07-2005, 03:59 PM   #8711
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thanx for the help do you guys recomend a pull start motor
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Old 09-07-2005, 04:02 PM   #8712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khain
thanx for the help do you guys recomend a pull start motor
No, pull starts don't work on the R40
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Old 09-07-2005, 04:03 PM   #8713
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oh i forgot, over all have i been making good chioces on the car and motor
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Old 09-07-2005, 05:19 PM   #8714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khain
i have been out of the r/c car world for about 3 years now and want to build a new car have chosen these parts so far

HPI R40 Nitro Pro Touring Car Kit
HPI Nitro Star Pro .12R XS
Futaba 3PM 3-Channel FM/No Servos


i know i need to get servos and a tune pipe waht do you guys suggest and were can i het these items
Like the car kit...
Like the Tx
Try the Os .12Tz turbo rear exhaust instead of the hpi engine...
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Old 09-07-2005, 07:14 PM   #8715
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Here's another for the OS 12TZ.. it's a real killer on small-medium tracks.
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