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Old 09-03-2005, 09:34 AM   #8686
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1. The kit specified middle pulleys front 23 and rear 19 does this overdrive the rear end and has anyone played with the pulley sizes front and rear and documented the differences.

2. Has anyone tried the hara set up with the 4 gear bevel rear end w/30,000 wt diff lock, and the two 23 tooth middle pulley's (like or not)
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Old 09-03-2005, 05:56 PM   #8687
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Welp, I got a new chassis for the R40, but it's the stock one. No worries it's flatter than my own chassis now. . Also, I just got the CD3 pro with the MT12 I sold my friend. Gonna try the Rody in there some time later on to see how it runs. Also, may just get the OS .12TZ for the CD3 pro.
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Old 09-03-2005, 08:52 PM   #8688
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Just got back from a little practicing. The car ran pretty good considering I was on 45shore tires. Basically practice tires that at the last practice were good for only doing doughnuts...But after a little tire tweak on them they came back to life.

After about 1 tank of running....oh yeah, a whole tank. I ripped the rear hinge pin out from the lower suspension brace! Has anyone done this. Well looks like im upgrading to the aluminum parts tonight.

Im figuring the CG arms caused this as my other r40 I smacked the crap out of walls and never had this happen. I believes its cause the plastic allows flex.

So im guessing anyone with cg arms might want to invest in the rear aluminum suspension mounts. But I also swapped to the mazda6 body. The car did drive a lot better , was easier to control and had just a more stuck to the ground feeling. The body also looks pretty cool. Ill try to post pictures tonight before I hack it up at tommorrows race.

Take care everyone.
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:58 PM   #8689
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what body did u orginally use to see the improvement?
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Old 09-05-2005, 05:44 AM   #8690
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33425 R40 ALUMINUM REAR SUSPENSION BLOCK This aluminum part strengthens rigidity to support rear suspension arms. Roll center can be adjusted by changing the suspension pin height



these are the blocks that HPI has in japan...the beauty is that the hinge pins mount in rubber bushings............and with spacers,you can change the height of the rear mount...
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Old 09-05-2005, 06:35 AM   #8691
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I actually just went with 3racing blocks. They were cheap and easy to get ahold of.

I had the skyline GTR body. What I would call a good sport body. The race body was leaps and bounds ahead in performance.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 09-05-2005 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 09-05-2005, 06:56 AM   #8692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I actually just went with 3racing blocks. They were cheap and easy to get ahold of.

I hda the skyline GTR body. What I would call a sport body. The race body was leaps and bounds ahead in performance.
do the 3 racing have ruber bushings where the hinge pins fit?..
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Old 09-05-2005, 07:00 AM   #8693
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Yeah forgot to mention they dont. There basically a replica of the plastic mounts with a few cuts into them to make them lighterweight and a larger opening for the belt to go into. Maybe so rocks can get out easier...im not sure though cause I didnt really overlook that area.
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:39 AM   #8694
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Default FAILSAFE UNIT

hey you guys i went ahead and bought a futaba failsafe unit for my HPI racer 2, the only problem is that the unit says I should use it with ni cad batteries and all I have now are ni mh, do you guys think there is any problem in using the unit with ni mh?
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:42 AM   #8695
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Well, just heres a report from my race weekend. Did pretty much terrible, well I really didnt do anything at all, basically never could get going.

During the practice the night before I ripped the hinge pin out. Motor was running fine, just still same old problem. Just doesnt want to lean out enough.

So that pretty much ended that nights tuning and practice. But was good enough for me to get some sort of reading on the track condition, which seemed slippery but not overly slippery.

After that arrived the next day with my 3racing blocks installed. Car fired up no problem as usual so I figure I would do some tuning while waiting, had my new spektrum radio so Im able to run around the parkinglot a little.

After a little of tuning and getting no where as usual. I went to fire the motor up a few minutes before the 1st qualifier. Motor wouldnt fire, which has never happend. The motor will idle all day and starts up right away normally.

So I ran off got a new glow-plug battery. Fired right up, then a few seconds later nothing at all.

After a little frustration and missing the 1st qualifier I decided time to check the glow-plug. Sure enough wasnt getting any heat or glow.

Got a new glow-plug (went from an hpi r6 to a RB 6) yeah its a hotter plug, figured it would help my rich situation. Installed , fired right up!

Now I went to get it tuned to that plug, gave a few throttle blips and revs to clear out all the fuel I just sent through it trying to start it for 5-10minutes and the motor would die out after I let off the gas or went to full throttle. Motor also picked up a pretty wild low-end pop sound.

Well after finally getting it to stay idle through a good rev or two. I was satisfied and just shut it off to not further waste time and just waited for qualifier 2. Well around came the qualifier went to start the motor....and no go.

Finally got it to fire and it was right back to same problem, kept dying. I had no time to work with it so just ran up to the track and threw it on the track. Luckily I had a pit crew kinda this time. A friend showed up and was helping me and then some guy at the races was grabbing my car when it died on the track and was taking it over to my starter box and kept helping me out, tuning it a little and getting me back on the track.

Iam very glad there are people like this. He said he had been tuning for 15 years and had a good ear for the motor. He pretty much said it was detonating and the removal of shims from the motor was the wrong choice.

The motor died about 3 times on the track and was kind of dangerous as cars wizzed by it and I didnt want to cause any wrecks, so I kinda packed up and went home. Pretty sad too If I could have gotten a good finish I would have been able to win the series. But went home with pretty much terrible points due to the fact last time I was hacked from 1st place to 8th. This time didnt even get a full qualifier and didnt even make the top10 for the a-main.

Hopefully I get this motor issue worked out. Im tired of swapping motors so Im going to just try and try until I figure this out. Im no idiot to motor tuning and my nova rs5 and my d3r are just kicking my a**. Almost making me think im a noob, but my omega was perfect. Tuning was as simple as dial it in , watch the smoke and power then take it back 1/8th and checked the temps and it was ready to go.

Oh well, thats my little report.
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:46 AM   #8696
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Default R40 Sugestions

Hi, Im noob on R40 Exp.
I bought a .12 Novarossi Engine, Tuned by Massimo Fantini, and Im looking for wise advices thx.
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:12 AM   #8697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
hey you guys i went ahead and bought a futaba failsafe unit for my HPI racer 2, the only problem is that the unit says I should use it with ni cad batteries and all I have now are ni mh, do you guys think there is any problem in using the unit with ni mh?




is this the unit?....If so,here's the link and descriptionfrom Tower Hobbies
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXH328&P=7



COMMENTS: Do not let water or fuel get on this unit, suggest KYOB6055 for boats
or gas cars. Also, for gas powered cars, suggest wrapping in foam
(HCAQ1000) to protect from vibration.
FOR USE WITH NICDs ONLY! (NO Alkalines or Manganese Dry Cells)
(The discharge curve of alkalines and NiMH cells 1/17/96eke
is dramatically different from that of the ir/jl
NiCD cells for which this unit was designed. It will
not provide you the warning at the appropriate time on
other types of cells.)
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:17 AM   #8698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Got a new glow-plug (went from an hpi r6 to a RB 6) yeah its a hotter plug, figured it would help my rich situation. Installed , fired right up!

Finally got it to fire and it was right back to same problem, kept dying. I had no time to work with it so just ran up to the track and threw it on the track. Luckily I had a pit crew kinda this time. A friend showed up and was helping me and then some guy at the races was grabbing my car when it died on the track and was taking it over to my starter box and kept helping me out, tuning it a little and getting me back on the track.

The motor died about 3 times on the track and was kind of dangerous as cars wizzed by it and I didnt want to cause any wrecks, so I kinda packed up and went home. Pretty sad too If I could have gotten a good finish I would have been able to win the series. But went home with pretty much terrible points due to the fact last time I was hacked from 1st place to 8th. This time didnt even get a full qualifier and didnt even make the top10 for the a-main.

Oh well, thats my little report.
AI - I'll share with you a problem that has happened on a couple of my R40s. The symptom is the engine runs for about 1 - 2 minutes and then simply dies. It starts back up but after a few more minutes, it dies.

PROBLEM - Car vibrations were causing air bubbles in the gas tank which in turn leaned the engine out during driving only.

FIX - make sure your tank is isolated from the upper chassis plate using the proper silicone grommets to act as shock/vibration dampeners. I even had to enlarge the tank holes so that it wasnt so "tight" on the chassis. So , even if you have the silicone rings, you might need to open of the mounting holes to better isolate the chassis vibrations.

Hope this helps someone....
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:44 AM   #8699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry



is this the unit?....If so,here's the link and descriptionfrom Tower Hobbies
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXH328&P=7



COMMENTS: Do not let water or fuel get on this unit, suggest KYOB6055 for boats
or gas cars. Also, for gas powered cars, suggest wrapping in foam
(HCAQ1000) to protect from vibration.
FOR USE WITH NICDs ONLY! (NO Alkalines or Manganese Dry Cells)
(The discharge curve of alkalines and NiMH cells 1/17/96eke
is dramatically different from that of the ir/jl
NiCD cells for which this unit was designed. It will
not provide you the warning at the appropriate time on
other types of cells.)
FH- It is similar, but the one I have is a futaba http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJDF8&P=Z
I guess I'll have to get nicds for this to work
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:59 AM   #8700
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klanderman: Actually this question was brought up a few weeks ago by Tabushi on the forum. Here is the link: http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80719

I personally have used the futaba fsu1. The first version and it works fine for me.

I personally think it will be fine with a used nimh pack , brand new you might have some troubles. But I dont think its ever going to drop too quickly to where it wont be able to catch it. Which is really the only problem with running nimh's. If anything the battery failsafe portion wont work perfectly. But I highly doubt its not going to detect anything.
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