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Old 08-22-2005, 05:43 PM   #8596
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I installed my clutch shims as shown in the manual and after about 1/2 a gallon my clutch is still fine.
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:19 PM   #8597
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here ya go..this really ought to make your head spin..

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10532
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10534

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10063


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Old 08-22-2005, 07:11 PM   #8598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbridd
Hi all,
I'd just like to extend thanks to ...
Hesky
Artificial-I
HarKonnenD
Rapid Roy
pedal2thametal

... for their insights into rectifying my R40 clutch problem(s).
It seems I had 3 contributing factors.
1) The inside of the clutch bell had become glazed with all the slip I had generated in trying to get it set up over the last 4 weeks. A swift scouring with some 340 Wet 'n' dry cured that problem.

2) The flywheel pins were protruding some .3mm above the level of the shoe, meaning that when I measured the clutch gap, I wasnt measuring the full distance the shoe had to travel to engage. I tapped the pins through the flywheel by .5mm so that the tops sit slighly below the shoe, to allow for shoe wear. Now when measuring the gap, the bell can contact the shoe rather than perching on top of the pins, giving an accurate measurement.

3) The 2 speed had a burr on it such that while it appeared free at rest, when torque was applied, (i.e. the engine engaged), the transmission was getting stuck in second gear.
Reassembling the 2-speed with more attention to detail and de-burring cured that.

I picked up an RD logics 62604 pipe for the car off Ebay for £15ukp, and fitted that at the same time. It is a good match with the HPI RXS engine.
I tested it at the local track on Sunday, and all the clutch problems seem cured now.
The car is ballistic, and nailed. I'm looking forward to racing it, although I fear it may now be "too fast for owner"

Thanks again for all your help.

PS.
I'm still interested in...
1) Why the internal diameter of the inner thrust bearing race is 4.2mm and the outer race is 4mm: and why it is important that the bearing is fitted with that orientation.

2) Why HPI show shims on the inside of the thrust bearing, (towards the engine), where serpent, and all other centax style clutches show shims fitted on the outside of the thrust bearing. I've now fitted my shims on the outside of the thrust bearing with no apparent detrimental effect.
Did HPI make a mistake in the instructions?
he he, I snapped up 2 of those pipes off ebay! the micro tech racing guy right? did yours still have the 50 quid price tag on it?! lol
I'm using it instead of my more expensive turbo 2 pipe, gives me gobs more top end with my sts motor and comes with spacers to tweak its tune.
looks quite a bit more robust also.

yup those links from fastharry are probably the most comprehensive you could find really.
I found Josh Cyruls 101 on clutches a big help also Link

with respect to your questions i dont think the orientation of the shims and bearing racers really matter. I would just copy the serpent manual, like AI said hpi must have been pi**ed when they wrote the r40 manual.
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:12 PM   #8599
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I know rbridd was looking for this info and I just happened to shoot straight to it. Its in the 3rd link fastharry posted I believe.

Thrustbearing Installation & Maintenance
The thrustbearing has two rings… one with a large inner diameter, and one with a small inner diameter. The ring with large inner diameter MUST go towards the flywheel.

I guess now I need to figure out which one Is the larger and make sure its towards the flywheel.
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Old 08-23-2005, 04:06 AM   #8600
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Quote:
he he, I snapped up 2 of those pipes off ebay! the micro tech racing guy right? did yours still have the 50 quid price tag on it?! lol
I'm using it instead of my more expensive turbo 2 pipe, gives me gobs more top end with my sts motor and comes with spacers to tweak its tune.
looks quite a bit more robust also.
Yes. The MicroTech auction.
Must keep a regular eye on them to see if they have any more bargains.

Thanks for all the links to MyTSN. I will read through to see if there is an explanation for the questions I had.

I'm not stressed about it, shims one way or the other, holes bigger one side than the other...I can fit them either way... I JUST WANT TO KNOW WHY!
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:22 AM   #8601
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FastHarry,

Which of those would you most liken the HPI Centax to, if I had to say it would be the Centax-1, am I right??? Should I use them as a sorta how-to to get my clutch perfect???
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:36 AM   #8602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigeRyan
FastHarry,

Which of those would you most liken the HPI Centax to, if I had to say it would be the Centax-1, am I right??? Should I use them as a sorta how-to to get my clutch perfect???


to be honest,I'm not sure.......except for the bearing sizes that go in the clutchbell,1 and 2 look the same to me.......when I can figure out why one needs shims in front[2].....and why you CAN"T put shims in front,and only behind the flywheel on #1...I'll have the answer....


that being said,if you look at the collet that holds the thrust bearing,you'll notice its a different diameter than the shaft it rides against.....so you might not be able to put enough shims on to adjust properly....so I follow method 1...and put enough shims behind the flywheel...and then follow 2 and fine adjust with shims on the collet.....
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:58 AM   #8603
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yeah Fast harry is rite. the collet is a bit smaller which makes the inner diameter of the thrust bearing smaller. I've tried putting the thrust bearing then the shims but its messed up and not the same. use the way in the manual as its the best way for the car. Or u can add another clutch set...if ur having really that much trouble. However no replacement parts on any of my clutch cept harder mugen spring and grey shoe. Thrust bearing seems to be holding up despite i have no idea which side is larger or smaller. Also Fast Harry how did u mess up ur other RB's crackshaft a while back. Most ppl lose a conrod or p/s before that even needs replacement.
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:06 AM   #8604
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also any one got secret (or well known) techniques to make foams last a tad bit longer? I know if u store skateboard wheels in the freezer before u ues them they last longer. Would this let foam last longer? Or is other techniques. Not the kinda guy who can keep buying foams every week or so. . running 40 shore mostly sometimes 42.

Getting the new digital Ko propo highspeed servo for my car's steering and then the new mid range cvec pipe when it comes out. 0.08 seconds is more like hte reaction time i need. I've seen some go as low as 0.06 but that wont be much faster noticable...maybe more twitchy. I like the fast reaction time of steering helps my handling quite a bit.
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:26 AM   #8605
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Default Problems with the rear belt!!!

Hey you guys I'm having problems with the rear belt. It seams that the car handles great, but after a couple of days the belt teeth seam to disappear???
I thought that maybe the belt was old, so I placed a new one, this was on saturday, I used the car on sunday and yesterday when cleaning it I noticed that the rear belt had no teeth what so ever? Has this happened to anyone? Please advice on how to solve the problem...
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Old 08-23-2005, 01:57 PM   #8606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
Hey you guys I'm having problems with the rear belt. It seams that the car handles great, but after a couple of days the belt teeth seam to disappear???
I thought that maybe the belt was old, so I placed a new one, this was on saturday, I used the car on sunday and yesterday when cleaning it I noticed that the rear belt had no teeth what so ever? Has this happened to anyone? Please advice on how to solve the problem...
It sounds like you have debris or gooey stuff in your gears. Take a close look. Use a small flathead screwdriver or a probe and scrape the low area between the gears. Sometimes a black gummy substance builds up between the teeth. The belt could also be too loose and is slipping.
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Old 08-23-2005, 03:28 PM   #8607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
It sounds like you have debris or gooey stuff in your gears. Take a close look. Use a small flathead screwdriver or a probe and scrape the low area between the gears. Sometimes a black gummy substance builds up between the teeth. The belt could also be too loose and is slipping.
Thanx Rapid Roy! I went ahead and took everything apart and saw that the plastic sproket that goes on the 2speed axle was worn, also found some debris on the rear diff, so I went ahead and cleaned it up prety good. I have a replacement diff that I might try if this happens again.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:44 PM   #8608
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The oneway is going to give you more off throttle steering vs the solid axle which will make the car push more (into the corner). On throttle, both diffs should act the same, as the one way is effectively locked when on the gas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
Has anyone tested the oneway vrs. the solid axle using it in the front???
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:48 PM   #8609
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I'm positive. The one-way as you know is just an insert that locks a normal front diff assembly. The weight from the cups, the lock, the diff housings.. etc.. all make the diff heavier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Are you sure? Everyone seems to believe the spool is lighter than a one-way. Well if its not, I still will be loosing some weight in that area with a new part that should be getting here soon.

Also the more weight you shed the better a car is going to perform to an extent. Everything from braking to acceleration will be improved to even gas mileage.
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:54 PM   #8610
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I dunno why I haven't been getting recalls, but anyway just wanted to give another update the car is still running strong with the same upgrades. I had a question though I'm using the stock gears on the LW 2speed which are
22T/29T 60T/54T. I was wondering if I can jump to a 20T pinion and 25T pinion as it will work with the stock pinions? Otherwise I may just drop one tooth on each.
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