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Old 08-19-2005, 09:36 PM   #8581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero
HPI could just release an upgrade kit like their Stage D thing..
That would be handy!
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:09 PM   #8582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero
Would laying the shocks all the way down and cutting the shock towers allow me to run Lola type bodies without cutting holes in the body?

Also, when is the Hara edition going to hit stores? Any word on the price? HPI could just release an upgrade kit like their Stage D thing. I am looking into getting one of these to back up my full option GT-4.

Yes, cutting the shock towers would work. There were some pictures somebody posted WAYYY back showing there setup.

I'm assuming that the update will be available as a kit just like the 2004 edition. You might have to order overseas for it though.
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Old 08-20-2005, 04:37 PM   #8583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Awesome got my hpi weight checker. I weighed the car and it weighs 1706g without body.

Still need to put my lw battery on there. That will put me around 1670. So far so good....but im sure you guys are a lot lighter than this right?

Ive also been reading the beginning of the r40 thread for more info. Lots of good stuff, sad its so hard to find in this large thread.
Hmmmm mine is 1750 now with body on my HPI checker............ We will need to do a list of mods to see how you can shave a few more grams............
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Old 08-20-2005, 04:40 PM   #8584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Yes, cutting the shock towers would work. There were some pictures somebody posted WAYYY back showing there setup.

I'm assuming that the update will be available as a kit just like the 2004 edition. You might have to order overseas for it though.
Kawahara makes a front shock tower to suit if you wanna buy one...... Mine cost me like $15 or so.

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Old 08-20-2005, 06:38 PM   #8585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Hmmmm mine is 1750 now with body on my HPI checker............ We will need to do a list of mods to see how you can shave a few more grams............
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I still have the one-way, battery box, rx box, heavy battery, ugly rear plastic body mount & plastic r40 handle on the car.
Yeah Ive got quite a few more things to do. All I would need to do is install the lw battery and our weights would be almost exact.

Then in goes the spool and I should be good, I didnt know if you guys were in the 1600's. Thats what im shooting for with the body, or at least low 1700's.

I figure If I just did the above well known easy stuff, I would be good. But im looking to make my car as light as possible yet still retain those things. So far Ive pretty much accounted for over 200g's of weight lost on my weight list and Ive got lots of blanks to fill and mods to still do.
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Old 08-21-2005, 05:39 AM   #8586
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You won't be loosing any weight with the spool.

I'd be curious to know how your car feels during mid corner? specifically, with light throttle. It must be so tossable, like electric..
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Old 08-21-2005, 06:53 AM   #8587
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That reminds me i need a weight checker as well... Great more things to think about.... . Anways. Sooner or later that chassi will fall into my check list. Maybe during this winter or fall ill work on it. It will be for next years season. whats the roar legal min weight? i dont want to go to far off the rules and make my car an airplane. Better yet jus get an airplane and run it with its landing gear if weight is the only concern and not perfomance Although i think thats what it has come to some ppl....
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Old 08-21-2005, 07:30 AM   #8588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranced
You won't be loosing any weight with the spool.

I'd be curious to know how your car feels during mid corner? specifically, with light throttle. It must be so tossable, like electric..
Are you sure? Everyone seems to believe the spool is lighter than a one-way. Well if its not, I still will be loosing some weight in that area with a new part that should be getting here soon.

Also the more weight you shed the better a car is going to perform to an extent. Everything from braking to acceleration will be improved to even gas mileage.
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Old 08-21-2005, 07:35 AM   #8589
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Also just weighed my 3racing chassis. Man im good at guessing cause the chassis weighs almost the exact same as the stock chassis.

So if you want to stiffen up your car a bunch and dont want to sacrifice weight (unless you have a super chassis already).

Stock 115.2
3racing 115.6

LOL, is that close enough. But the 3racing is a 4mm chassis.
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:58 AM   #8590
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spool set-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by tranced
You won't be loosing any weight with the spool.

I'd be curious to know how your car feels during mid corner? specifically, with light throttle. It must be so tossable, like electric..
what do you guys think would be a good initial foam-asphalt-spool set-up?
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Old 08-22-2005, 05:15 AM   #8591
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Default HPI R40 Clutch Problems - Resolved

Hi all,
I'd just like to extend thanks to ...
Hesky
Artificial-I
HarKonnenD
Rapid Roy
pedal2thametal

... for their insights into rectifying my R40 clutch problem(s).
It seems I had 3 contributing factors.
1) The inside of the clutch bell had become glazed with all the slip I had generated in trying to get it set up over the last 4 weeks. A swift scouring with some 340 Wet 'n' dry cured that problem.

2) The flywheel pins were protruding some .3mm above the level of the shoe, meaning that when I measured the clutch gap, I wasnt measuring the full distance the shoe had to travel to engage. I tapped the pins through the flywheel by .5mm so that the tops sit slighly below the shoe, to allow for shoe wear. Now when measuring the gap, the bell can contact the shoe rather than perching on top of the pins, giving an accurate measurement.

3) The 2 speed had a burr on it such that while it appeared free at rest, when torque was applied, (i.e. the engine engaged), the transmission was getting stuck in second gear.
Reassembling the 2-speed with more attention to detail and de-burring cured that.

I picked up an RD logics 62604 pipe for the car off Ebay for 15ukp, and fitted that at the same time. It is a good match with the HPI RXS engine.
I tested it at the local track on Sunday, and all the clutch problems seem cured now.
The car is ballistic, and nailed. I'm looking forward to racing it, although I fear it may now be "too fast for owner"

Thanks again for all your help.

PS.
I'm still interested in...
1) Why the internal diameter of the inner thrust bearing race is 4.2mm and the outer race is 4mm: and why it is important that the bearing is fitted with that orientation.

2) Why HPI show shims on the inside of the thrust bearing, (towards the engine), where serpent, and all other centax style clutches show shims fitted on the outside of the thrust bearing. I've now fitted my shims on the outside of the thrust bearing with no apparent detrimental effect.
Did HPI make a mistake in the instructions?

Last edited by rbridd; 08-22-2005 at 06:22 AM. Reason: enhance
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:16 AM   #8592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbridd
Hi all,
I'd just like to extend thanks to ...
Hesky
Artificial-I
HarKonnenD
Rapid Roy
pedal2thametal

... for their insights into rectifying my R40 clutch problem(s).
It seems I had 3 contributing factors.
1) The inside of the clutch bell had become glazed with all the slip I had generated in trying to get it set up over the last 4 weeks. A swift scouring with some 340 Wet 'n' dry cured that problem.

2) The flywheel pins were protruding some .3mm above the level of the shoe, meaning that when I measured the clutch gap, I wasnt measuring the full distance the shoe had to travel to engage. I tapped the pins through the flywheel by .5mm so that the tops sit slighly below the shoe, to allow for shoe wear. Now when measuring the gap, the bell can contact the shoe rather than perching on top of the pins, giving an accurate measurement.

3) The 2 speed had a burr on it such that while it appeared free at rest, when torque was applied, (i.e. the engine engaged), the transmission was getting stuck in second gear.
Reassembling the 2-speed with more attention to detail and de-burring cured that.

I picked up an RD logics 62604 pipe for the car off Ebay for 15ukp, and fitted that at the same time. It is a good match with the HPI RXS engine.
I tested it at the local track on Sunday, and all the clutch problems seem cured now.
The car is ballistic, and nailed. I'm looking forward to racing it, although I fear it may now be "too fast for owner"

Thanks again for all your help.

PS.
I'm still interested in...
1) Why the internal diameter of the inner thrust bearing race is 4.2mm and the outer race is 4mm: and why it is important that the bearing is fitted with that orientation.

2) Why HPI show shims on the inside of the thrust bearing, (towards the engine), where serpent, and all other centax style clutches show shims fitted on the outside of the thrust bearing. I've now fitted my shims on the outside of the thrust bearing with no apparent detrimental effect.
Did HPI make a mistake in the instructions?
Good stuff. Thanks for posting your results. It really helps to know that the time I take to post actually helps somebody. I went through almost the same process you did to get things to work properly.

I kept scratching my head about the shim placement as well. There is not a single "correct" way to place the shims. The outside seems to be the best place for me. I'm thinking that somebody at HPI (maybe Thad) does his clutches the way shown in the manual with good results. Its all good though. If you want to see some creative clutch mods, go to the Serpent 710 thread.
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:30 PM   #8593
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Has anyone tested the oneway vrs. the solid axle using it in the front???
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:09 PM   #8594
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Im getting one of these in a trade. I was wondering if anyone would be interested in Titanium drivetrain parts, (dogbones, drive cups, diff outdrives). And how much you would be willing to pay.
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:12 PM   #8595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodude
Im getting one of these in a trade. I was wondering if anyone would be interested in Titanium drivetrain parts, (dogbones, drive cups, diff outdrives). And how much you would be willing to pay.
Let me see some pics of what you are offering, sounds intersting when it comes to strenth and weight...
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