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Old 08-14-2005, 07:14 PM   #8476
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Tire choice is variable Depending on track temprature for that given day and insert depends on smoothness of track suface,also depends on if your doing a 5 min qualifier or an 1/2 hour to an hour Main.
Hey Artificial your car looks great is that the upgraded chassis.?
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:25 PM   #8477
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Tire temperature ratings aside, what manufactures are producing tyres with excellent grip levels and low wear rates. I mean I remember a while back nitro guys were using 24mm tyres all round because the best tire advancements and developments were going into the most popular sizes ie electric scale saloon.
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:56 PM   #8478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
yeah that makes sense, nimh aaa's are between 13-14gs each. I found some hi capacity nicd aaa (still only 600mah) that are only 9 grams each so im gonna make a 6v pack up from then.
I remember about 6 years back when I was racing with those crappy old nicd rc1700 cells, well I picked up a set yesterday and compared them to a pack of new gp3700s nimh and they feel half as light.
nimh=heavy
the higher the capacity(3700) the bigger the cells need to be which in hte end means more weight thats y rx batteries are usually only lik 600-1100 mah cause they dont need that much cause no motor and of weight issues. Also nicds arent good for rx as there discharge rate are more turned to motors... Which will jus drain the batter faster on a rx batterypack with unneeded power. Nicds arent as consitant either.... Jus stating what i know b4 u make one.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:05 PM   #8479
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u can get the full set Mugen clutch set
here

theres a racing version on the first page and the stock version is on the next page a 20$difference.

Or u can also try this site for the stock set as well
here
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:43 PM   #8480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
the higher the capacity(3700) the bigger the cells need to be which in hte end means more weight thats y rx batteries are usually only lik 600-1100 mah cause they dont need that much cause no motor and of weight issues. Also nicds arent good for rx as there discharge rate are more turned to motors... Which will jus drain the batter faster on a rx batterypack with unneeded power. Nicds arent as consitant either.... Jus stating what i know b4 u make one.
ah, na I was comparing the old rc1700 cells to the new gp3700s, there both Sub-C type cells but there different construction gives them completely different weights even though there the same size.
Nicds are fine if you cycle them but do get a bit flacky if u dont discharge them correctly, unlike nimh cells they suffer from a problem called battery memory effect, I guess this is what you mean by "Nicds arent as consistent either".
nimh and nicd cells have pretty similar discharge characteristics even with there differing internal resistances but when the current draw is low such as the power drain from an rx pack the elevated self-discharge of the cell itself comes into play, nicd cells asymptotically self discharge unlike nimh which olny loose 10% of there charge after 24hrs, so yeah nimh's are a little better suited to low current applications.
I've been using these light nicd aaa and they last about 2 meets, charge and discharge them correctly and they will work fine.
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:58 PM   #8481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
my local track has decided to only run rubber slick tyres now, somethin about reducing tyre costs for members, I dunno But I fancy givin a few sticky rubber sets a blast, what rubber slicks should I be checking out, track has a really smooth tarmaced surface. what rubbers do you guys recon will give me the best possible grip levels for this surface?

cheers
A good set of rubber tires (4) will costs about $40 - $45; possibly a little cheaper if bought overseas --- this is TWICE the cost of foams. ($15/pair for rubber + $5/pair inserts + $5 rims). I have tried many "pre-glued" rubbers but they mostlly come with Medium inserts which don't work well for the nitro cars; espacially the R40) in my experience.

From my experience, if you want rubbers to work you have to use a FIRM insert (mostly due to the weight of a nitro car). I used the HPI BLUEs (24mm) with pretty good success. Either the HPI rubbers or the Take-offs work well. I also dislike "assembling" tires - what a headache..... So, if you have to try them, start with Take-Off 27s or 32s (the track temp will dictate which rating to use) along with the HPI blue Firm insert and gove it a try -- good luck.
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:02 PM   #8482
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ah u must have more luck than i do with nicds....I still prefere the nihm cause its the easiest to maintain and shows decent results. But whatever works fine will do the trick now wont it
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:22 PM   #8483
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Artificial nice bent stinger Mine pipe looks jus like that as well. I hate them boards...curbs and other cars...
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:42 PM   #8484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
A good set of rubber tires (4) will costs about $40 - $45; possibly a little cheaper if bought overseas --- this is TWICE the cost of foams. ($15/pair for rubber + $5/pair inserts + $5 rims). I have tried many "pre-glued" rubbers but they mostlly come with Medium inserts which don't work well for the nitro cars; espacially the R40) in my experience.

From my experience, if you want rubbers to work you have to use a FIRM insert (mostly due to the weight of a nitro car). I used the HPI BLUEs (24mm) with pretty good success. Either the HPI rubbers or the Take-offs work well. I also dislike "assembling" tires - what a headache..... So, if you have to try them, start with Take-Off 27s or 32s (the track temp will dictate which rating to use) along with the HPI blue Firm insert and gove it a try -- good luck.
Cheers John thats loads of help! its just like you say, I cant see rubber tires been more cost effective than foam tires, unless very hard compounds are chosen so they last significantly longer to justify there costs, but I'm not up for that myself. really cant figure out why my club decided to run rubber in favour of foams I guess I'm just gonna have to make the most out of it and get my car setup for rubbers, and be prepared to blow 40 bucks on tyres every week just for club meets, sooner that than skate around the track with crappy hard tires, bumping into stuff!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
ah u must have more luck than i do with nicds....I still prefere the nihm cause its the easiest to maintain and shows decent results. But whatever works fine will do the trick now wont it.
yeah your spot on!
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:49 PM   #8485
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There seems to be alot of talk about the mugen clutch can someone please tell me the benifits/cons of using this clutch

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:04 PM   #8486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
Artificial nice bent stinger Mine pipe looks jus like that as well. I hate them boards...curbs and other cars...
lol, I thought that 2, mine is just like that 2. tried to bend it out and bloody made it worse! dont really remember what I hit to bend it, looks like it doesnt take much to bend the stinger on these rd pipes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett.w
There seems to be alot of talk about the mugen clutch can someone please tell me the benifits/cons of using this clutch

Thanks in advance
I'm just finding out, maybe amg and john can give better input as they have been experimenting for quite a while.
Initially I've found it easier to setup, produces much better bite with the optional mugen springs and shoes. also seems to hold together better, although I'm using the JP clutch bell and it glazes up so quickly, so I just run it for crucial finals. no biggie really.
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Old 08-15-2005, 01:01 PM   #8487
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I got a mtx clutch setup. Kinda impulsed bought it. Thanks a million for those links. Im going to pick one up.

Ill let you guys know how the clutch setup goes. Im just tired of playing with the hpi one. Ive had the screw that holds things in wobble like crazy on one engine , the next it wouldnt.

As for the mugen setup, its just more solid. But if you get a new grey pad , this sometimes is all that you need. Im still wondering how it works with a full mugen setup and Ill check to see the main differences and what needs to be swapped.

But im pretty tired of the hpi setup, that and the flywheel pins on my 2nd flywheel was the last straw.
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Old 08-15-2005, 01:48 PM   #8488
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AI let us know what you use from the mugen kit, I sort of have a hybrid hpi/mugen setup at the mo. but like you say simply using the mugen grey shoes give you the best performance boost! I found that to.

john your spot on, lookin around for pre assembled wheels and they all have medium inserts. I remember a few years back we had no choose but to glue um up ourselves lol.
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Old 08-15-2005, 02:03 PM   #8489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
Cheers John thats loads of help! its just like you say, I cant see rubber tires been more cost effective than foam tires, unless very hard compounds are chosen so they last significantly longer to justify there costs, but I'm not up for that myself. really cant figure out why my club decided to run rubber in favour of foams I guess I'm just gonna have to make the most out of it and get my car setup for rubbers, and be prepared to blow 40 bucks on tyres every week just for club meets, sooner that than skate around the track with crappy hard tires, bumping into stuff!

The only reason I could think of is that there might be issues at your track with chunking tires. Maybe the boards are hard on foams and prople are having to toss tires with good foam left because of damage. I have found that you can run rubber a good deal longer then foam tires as long as the rubber doesn't overheat. Also rubber tires do loose grip as they wear. So you don't really NEED new tires every race unless everybody else is playing the "gotta run new tires in the mains" game. If thats the case, rubber tires are NOT cheaper.
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Old 08-15-2005, 02:37 PM   #8490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett.w
There seems to be alot of talk about the mugen clutch can someone please tell me the benifits/cons of using this clutch

Thanks in advance
From my experience as you try out the Mugen grey shoe and the mugen springs (sliver & gold) you will find that the HPI outer clutchbell bearing might have some reliability issues if your clutch set-up is not perfect. In other words, if you run a little too much endplay, the HPI outer clutch bearing won't be able to last very long (maybe 4 - 5 race weekends). This is my experience.

If you buy a Mugen clutch you first notice how much larger the outer clutchbell bearing is compared to the HPI. So now if you are going to buy the grey clutch shoe and the springs and the clutchbell and bearing, it is more cost effective to purchase the entire assembly; I think $40 - $50 total. Individually it will cost 2x that.

I think if HPI offered a better shoe it might solve alot of these issues - don't know
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