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Old 08-07-2005, 08:42 PM   #8416
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Last edited by tranced; 08-16-2005 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 08-08-2005, 02:19 AM   #8417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigeRyan
I have a Mugen centax, will the HPI pinions thread onto a Mugen endbell????

ugh, this car is going to drive me nuts, all for a 2 day race....

Make sure that the pins that locate the clutch shoes are not hitting the inside of the clutch bell. Your clutch bell will have a nice line in it if they are. Next, you want to run as little end play as possible.

You might be setting up the clutch bell to far away from the clutch shoes. If you shim the wrong places you will have too much gap between the clutch bell and clutch shoes. If this happens, you will never be able to get the clutch to engage early enough. What I did was to assemble the clutch weights, shoes and clutch nut on the flywheel. Then I test fit the clutchbell without any bearings or spacers. When I did this, I discovered the pins were keeping the clutch bell from comming into contact with the clutch shoes and I had to do my mod. Once you get good contact between the shoes and bell, you can now see the correct position of the clutch bell to the clutch shoes. You want a very small gap between the shoes and bell. Now take off the clutchbell, install the bearings, and adjust the spacers so you get the gap you want. Now add spacers at the end, just under the screw that holds the whole mess together so the is almost no wiggle (end play).

Once I figured this out, I built both clutches (I have 2 R40's) in 20 minutes and was able to adjust them both easily. The manual tries to give you a cookie cutter or simplified method of setting up the clutch, but I have found too many variables between engine shafts, flywheels, and the various clutch parts to get things to work the way the instructions show. This was not my first experiance with a centax clutch, but I was forced to throughly understand how to properly setup and adjust one to get mine to work. I use completly stock clutch components and haven't had any problems yet. I have bought the grey mugen shoes to try but havent' intsalled it yet.
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Old 08-08-2005, 02:38 PM   #8418
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Roy, Thanks for the description I will try all that this evening....You guys have been very helpful thru all of this, really appreciate it...hopefully this car will perform well at the East Coast HPI Challenge
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Old 08-08-2005, 03:00 PM   #8419
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I have been using the stock clutch shoe and haven't had trouble with it, but I'm always willing to try a new brand... Can you get the grey one at rcmart or towers, or is there another www that I can ordered it from???
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Old 08-08-2005, 03:10 PM   #8420
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BTW I got to lower my car to 1806 with everything, but usually the bodies weigh around 110 grams, this M3 body weigh 124 grams so that should put me in the 1790 grams with another body. Still there are cars around that weigh 1720 grams or so, but I cant seem to find the titanium parts (large pins for the A arms and pivot balls ad don't know what else) I think my team orion header and pipe are a bit heavier than other pipes LOL... Anyway here is a pic on the scale and another one with black wheels...
Attached Thumbnails
HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-r40-1806-grams1.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-black-wheels-r-40.jpg  
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:21 PM   #8421
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Default Light Weight Transmission

I just got the light weight transmission and the two light weight shafts. I am looking at the gear ratios right now.

The stock R40 gearing is as follows:
48/16 = 7.260
45/19 = 5.731

The gearing that comes with the light weight setup is as follows:
60/22 = 6.600
54/29 = 4.506

My gearing will be taller (numerically lower) in both gears. I realize that the car will be capable of running more MPH in each gear if the motor can still turn max RPM, but I am very concerned that my acceleration will suffer in both gears. Does anyone have any comments on this?

I see that the M 0.8 gear options include 58T-60T spurs and 20T-22T pinions for first. Second can use 52T-54T spurs and 25T-29T pinions. Are there any restrictions about which spurs and/or pinions can be used together while still maintaining the proper gear mesh in first and second. My RS4 has such a restriction but I am not sure about the R40.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:00 PM   #8422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossb
I just got the light weight transmission and the two light weight shafts. I am looking at the gear ratios right now.

The stock R40 gearing is as follows:
48/16 = 7.260
45/19 = 5.731

The gearing that comes with the light weight setup is as follows:
60/22 = 6.600
54/29 = 4.506

My gearing will be taller (numerically lower) in both gears. I realize that the car will be capable of running more MPH in each gear if the motor can still turn max RPM, but I am very concerned that my acceleration will suffer in both gears. Does anyone have any comments on this?

I see that the M 0.8 gear options include 58T-60T spurs and 20T-22T pinions for first. Second can use 52T-54T spurs and 25T-29T pinions. Are there any restrictions about which spurs and/or pinions can be used together while still maintaining the proper gear mesh in first and second. My RS4 has such a restriction but I am not sure about the R40.
People have reported no acceleration loss with the taller gears due to the reduction in rotating mass. Also, you can use any pinion/spur combo. They have been redesigned to have a constat outside diameter.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:03 PM   #8423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
BTW I got to lower my car to 1806 with everything, but usually the bodies weigh around 110 grams, this M3 body weigh 124 grams so that should put me in the 1790 grams with another body. Still there are cars around that weigh 1720 grams or so, but I cant seem to find the titanium parts (large pins for the A arms and pivot balls ad don't know what else) I think my team orion header and pipe are a bit heavier than other pipes LOL... Anyway here is a pic on the scale and another one with black wheels...
You can loose another 40 grams by going to AAA receiver batteries. Loose the battery box for some more.
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Old 08-08-2005, 08:40 PM   #8424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
I have been using the stock clutch shoe and haven't had trouble with it, but I'm always willing to try a new brand... Can you get the grey one at rcmart or towers, or is there another www that I can ordered it from???
I got mine at my lhs. They also luckily have quite a few other mugen clutch parts.
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:05 PM   #8425
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Only 1 more week left..
I am so ready.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TigeRyan
Roy, Thanks for the description I will try all that this evening....You guys have been very helpful thru all of this, really appreciate it...hopefully this car will perform well at the East Coast HPI Challenge
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:10 PM   #8426
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Start watching some inspirational content. LOL, drift videos , f1 engine tuning , f1 in car camera racing , lemans racing of any kind and that should do it for anything real exciting....for racing, at least to me.

Then when your done, turn on some nascar and goto sleep.
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:15 PM   #8427
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i picked up my car off the ground and gave it full throttle to see whether or not the 2 speed will engage. no problem there. the motor has been broken in already.

a few seconds after the motor engages in second gear, the motor cuts out/stops. is that normal?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:15 PM   #8428
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LOL so true
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:19 PM   #8429
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racer:
try richening your low speed needle 1/8th turn at a time. the engine is probably being starved of fuel trying to return to idle.

[edit] or it could be the opposite, your motor could be running too fat on the low end.. if your engine takes time to idle down .. and THEN shuts off its too lean, if the engine returns to idle abruptly and then dies its too rich.
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:20 PM   #8430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
BTW I got to lower my car to 1806 with everything, but usually the bodies weigh around 110 grams, this M3 body weigh 124 grams so that should put me in the 1790 grams with another body. Still there are cars around that weigh 1720 grams or so, but I cant seem to find the titanium parts (large pins for the A arms and pivot balls ad don't know what else) I think my team orion header and pipe are a bit heavier than other pipes LOL... Anyway here is a pic on the scale and another one with black wheels...
I found the hpi titanium pivot balls. I also know of a lot of modifications first hand that most of you dont do that would net me an easy 40-50grams. As for 70, thats stretching it.
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