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Old 08-01-2005, 10:32 PM   #8311
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i just bent in my rd logics turbo 2 pipe's stinger going like 15mph(looked real slow) into a curb sideways. It just traveled like 2 feet...(dont know my own cars accel i guess) I am really considering a Cvec pipe as my next buy aside from other things i need... All i need is some more money...Good pipes are hard to comeby for a low price i guess. As long as no more bending or at least a stronger pipe will do for me..Also ever see one of them Hard racing shark pipes..they look nice.....designwise. Any one got comments on the hard racing one... I already know cvec is awsome but i like sharks and wanna see how these cool looking pipes are like.

Also does ur clutch act like this...

I start my car and i have to rev the engine up quit a bit to get it to engage...(i call this the initial engagment rev ) But after i do that and drive the car the clutch seems to act up better and it engages from idle to throttle much easier...doesnt seem quite rite but after i get the intial rev out of the way the clutch is set-up to jus the way i like it. snappy and right there.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:34 AM   #8312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
:

Also does ur clutch act like this...

I start my car and i have to rev the engine up quit a bit to get it to engage...(i call this the initial engagment rev ) But after i do that and drive the car the clutch seems to act up better and it engages from idle to throttle much easier...doesnt seem quite rite but after i get the intial rev out of the way the clutch is set-up to jus the way i like it. snappy and right there.

Is it possible your low-end engine mixture is too rich and it takes an initial "rev" to clean it out. A rich engine will not rev quick enough to engage the clutch. Just a thought..
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:40 AM   #8313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
i just bent in my rd logics turbo 2 pipe's stinger going like 15mph(looked real slow) into a curb sideways. It just traveled like 2 feet...(dont know my own cars accel i guess) I am really considering a Cvec pipe as my next buy aside from other things i need... All i need is some more money...Good pipes are hard to comeby for a low price i guess. As long as no more bending or at least a stronger pipe will do for me..Also ever see one of them Hard racing shark pipes..they look nice.....designwise. Any one got comments on the hard racing one... I already know cvec is awsome but i like sharks and wanna see how these cool looking pipes are like.

Also does ur clutch act like this...

I start my car and i have to rev the engine up quit a bit to get it to engage...(i call this the initial engagment rev ) But after i do that and drive the car the clutch seems to act up better and it engages from idle to throttle much easier...doesnt seem quite rite but after i get the intial rev out of the way the clutch is set-up to jus the way i like it. snappy and right there.
Id get that sometimes. Beforehand my car engaged ok afterawhile it started engaging later and this initial seemed like I would have to rev up quite a bit at first to start. I really couldnt seem to fix it. Im thinking maybe its the black hpi disc.

I got the mugen grey now Im hoping that makes it consistent.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:43 AM   #8314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
It sounds like you are working the piston up and down too fast. When you first fill the shock, fill 1/2 or 3/4 way and work the pistion very slowly, making sure you don't raise the piston above the top of the shock oil. Then let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes. The shock oil should be crystal clear. You then top it off and close it up. The key is not to get the tiny bubbles in the oil in the first place (kinda reminds me of a song).

Also importaint is to get the rebound so that its the same on all 4, or least the same for the left and right shocks.
On one I figured out I was going to fast , the rest of them I did slow. Also the one I did fast after doing it slow for a bit that helped rejoin a lot of the bubbles.

Also yeah your method sounds good as when you pour oil into a fresh dry shock it always catches air underneath the piston. I did it by filling them all. Then dumping them all and refilling and letting it sit. Worked out really good. Your way would be good as it saves oil. Ill try that next time.

The other reason I dumped my oil though was some of the green slime got into the shock oil. So I figured that might change how it performs.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:46 AM   #8315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I'm thinking of getting the front one way diff and toss the stock front diff in the rear.
I think the front and rear diffs are different size. Im going to build a few extra diffs front and rear and will be using different weights in them, so I can just swap them out if I want to at the track.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:48 AM   #8316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheroad
Is there any option belt for the r40? Does any mugen or serpent belt fits on this car?
All my belts on my r40 are pretty much in great condition. Theres a rip or two in the back of the front belt. But when I put the belts next to my new ones I had to give them a good look over to figure out which was which.

Im pretty sure the stock belts are all thats needed. But I did remember the racer2 had some optional belts. Forgot what it was made of but I never even used those as my stock ones didnt get that bad....
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:49 AM   #8317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OB42TC3
I think the v-one rrr front belt should work. It has the same number. I will have mine shortly to verify. You can also get the HPI urethanes from Champ International via email:

[email protected]

I ran one of these yesterday at Toledo.
Can you get urethane for the r40? I thought these belts were only for racer2's. I actually still have them , wonder if its the same part #.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:53 AM   #8318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranced
Having both one-way and diff is invaluable in trackside setup. But usually just by navigating the track a few laps you can see which would be more suited. On a technical track using 2 by 4's as barriers with 180's or 90 degree turns, using a spool in the front is the best option. On a slightly more flowing, small track, a front diff would be appropriate. If the track is shared by 1/8th scales, then a one-way would be better suited. When I run at Floyd I usually use a one-way or a heavy diff in the front, because of its flowing, symmetrical layout.
Which reminds me I have my solid rear axle on the way. Im thinking on testing it out. Not sure though still trying to get used to driving the one-way. Which seems to work for me , even with a tight track layout.

One cool thing I notice with the one-way if you leave like a real light light throttle on , rather than fully getting off it to take a turn. Your car will just curve through the turn like it was off gas but keeps it speed up.
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:47 AM   #8319
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A-I: with the spool, the car is pulled with more stability out of the corner. the one-way is better suited to courses where you can stay on-throttle, like you mentioned, through the turn. If you notice on tight tracks, if you open the throttle too much with a one-way on a 90 and specifically 180 U's, the car becomes unstable. what the spool is doing is letting you gas it WOT right after the turn, pointing straight ahead, which helps a lot especially on 90 and 180 turns where the car is coasting for less than a second, in which case it is not beneficial to use a one-way.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:21 PM   #8320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranced
A-I: with the spool, the car is pulled with more stability out of the corner. the one-way is better suited to courses where you can stay on-throttle, like you mentioned, through the turn. If you notice on tight tracks, if you open the throttle too much with a one-way on a 90 and specifically 180 U's, the car becomes unstable. what the spool is doing is letting you gas it WOT right after the turn, pointing straight ahead, which helps a lot especially on 90 and 180 turns where the car is coasting for less than a second, in which case it is not beneficial to use a one-way.
I have found that the one downside to the spool in the front is that you loose some off-power steering into the turns. There might be some ways to compensate for this a little I just havent had the time to experiment.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:56 PM   #8321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Just curious - why are you needing an option belt?
Because i heard that the rear belt of r40 wears quickly.
I don't know it is true but i only heard.
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:04 PM   #8322
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I've had mine for 2 years... The rear belt wears when shards of glass from druken dickheads throwing beer bottles on the track get stuck up in it, but other than that I've noticed no excessive wear... There's also tension adjustment for the rear diff. Each side adjusts independantly, so if one side is "accidentally" adjusted further than the other, then that may cause excessive wear.
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:11 PM   #8323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheroad
Because i heard that the rear belt of r40 wears quickly.
I don't know it is true but i only heard.
R40Victim has a colorful way of saying it....

I have had no problems either.. make sure the tension is set properly ( as stated by the Victim)

So set the tension and avoid the d-d's beer throwing and you should be OK!
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:27 PM   #8324
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oh yeah i forgot totally about that...that should be the problem...My idle was rich too so that should work out for me thanks...
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:28 PM   #8325
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yeah, the 1st time I ran my car to test, the rear belt got shredded by a stone that had got jammed between it and the engine and engine mount, managed to take a chunk out of the crankcase and trash the motor mount
I guess the r40's open belt design is pron to this.
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