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Old 07-30-2005, 12:38 PM   #8281
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I run on seim-prepared asphalt. The guys really let nature determine how the surface is. I used to run greens front and and blues in the rear.
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Old 07-30-2005, 02:26 PM   #8282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero
I run on seim-prepared asphalt. The guys really let nature determine how the surface is. I used to run greens front and and blues in the rear.
That is interesting... GREENS are softer than BLUES. I would have guessed that you had the GREENS at the rear. How did your car handle with your tire set-ups?

I am not sure you will get good traction if track is not blown off ....
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Old 07-30-2005, 04:41 PM   #8283
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Default New Radio

Hey guys I plan on buying the new Spektrum Radio at my LHS. I think my R40 will benefit from a better steering servo and the 8th will need a better throttle. I dislike the way that hitec cuts out for no damn reason. Surely I can snag an M8 (tx only) and spektrum unit for $300, but I don't plan on racing that serious since onroad will soon be over and I'm going back to school. The Futaba 3pdfx will be a backup radio while I run the spektrum (bout 80% sure I'll get it). All I need is a new tank, adjust the clutch and see how she runs. It may just benefit from a tighter setting on the adjuster nut and possibly the mugen grey shoe. We may end up going to the track Wednesday so gonna see how things go.
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Old 07-30-2005, 05:14 PM   #8284
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Guy's whats a good engine for the R40?
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Old 07-30-2005, 05:50 PM   #8285
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You have a wide choice. I choose by what my LHS has in stock, size of the track, reliability, and what can I afford. As I said in your other thread find out more about the track and then make an engine choice. You'd surely hate to spend $300+ on an engine when your track has a straight thats like 120FT or so.
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Old 07-30-2005, 06:01 PM   #8286
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My hobbie store Has a track and tournament behind it and Im pretty sure they will let you drive Most engines there since its not and official race like track.
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Old 07-30-2005, 06:38 PM   #8287
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What are some of your shock setups? Oil Weights & Pistons for front and rear.

I run on a parking-lot thats been recently sealed with tar I guess? That uses VHT. Its somewhat bumpy but sort of smooth.. and different in certain areas kind of hard to explain. Not sure what to classify it as.

Here are some shots so you can see what I mean.




Click Here for Larger Image







Also what would the effects of thinner oil in the rear compared to the front be.

I noticed hara uses #1 piston for front and #2 for rear. Im thinking about the same and probably 50wt all around. Let me know what you think would work and any tips you might have.
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Old 07-30-2005, 06:41 PM   #8288
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Oh and I found some 3v lithium batteries. They are for cheap cameras and stuff. Im thinking if I put two together that might work out for a lightweight battery pack that will last awhile vs the AAA lithium batteries that im not really sure on how Ill charge.

But I can charge up to 4 lipo cells with my charger. Ill let you guys know , they cost $15 a piece so im not sure when ill be able to try this.
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Old 07-30-2005, 09:02 PM   #8289
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AI - I usually start with 40WT (R) and 50WT (F).

The piston and the oil weight dampen the shock movement. So using thinner oil in your shock will let the shock piston move with less resistance; heavier shock oil or a piston with less holes adds resisitance which slows down the shock movement.

Fo me, I only go to heavier oil if the track layout uses large sweeping turns. For example, let's say you have a real large sweeping high-speed turn. This might be a good situation to use thicker oil to slow down the shock so it will maintain a constant resistance though the entire turn. If you were to use too thin of oil here, your shock would bottom out too quickly and not be consistant throughout the entire sweeper. I am probably not explaining it in simple enough terms... Oh well - maybe someone else can explain it better - kinda tired now..!
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Old 07-30-2005, 10:32 PM   #8290
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JAG, the car worked fine with the soft suspension I ran with them and I did run the blue front green combo before. I just got used to having more traction at the front. The best combo I had was reds front and rear running a soft suspension but I couldn't deal with that much steering.
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Old 07-30-2005, 10:47 PM   #8291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero
JAG, the car worked fine with the soft suspension I ran with them and I did run the blue front green combo before. I just got used to having more traction at the front. The best combo I had was reds front and rear running a soft suspension but I couldn't deal with that much steering.
I run REDS all around when traction is good, but when traction is not real good I go to GREENS on the front/ REDS in the rear. You might try this once. Another change would be to go to a firmer front spring (GOLD)to reduce the steering.
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Old 07-30-2005, 11:00 PM   #8292
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When traction is good I run blues all around and run firmer springs all around with 55 wt. oil. I really just don't like changing the suspension too much when I can get away with it, so consequently I run through a lot of tires.
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Old 07-30-2005, 11:17 PM   #8293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
AI - I usually start with 40WT (R) and 50WT (F).

The piston and the oil weight dampen the shock movement. So using thinner oil in your shock will let the shock piston move with less resistance; heavier shock oil or a piston with less holes adds resisitance which slows down the shock movement.

Fo me, I only go to heavier oil if the track layout uses large sweeping turns. For example, let's say you have a real large sweeping high-speed turn. This might be a good situation to use thicker oil to slow down the shock so it will maintain a constant resistance though the entire turn. If you were to use too thin of oil here, your shock would bottom out too quickly and not be consistant throughout the entire sweeper. I am probably not explaining it in simple enough terms... Oh well - maybe someone else can explain it better - kinda tired now..!

I do it the other way around. Large sweeping turns will require harder springs and lighter shock oil. If your shock is under sprung, it will have a tendancy to pack down. Think about it this way. On a long sweeper, the outside shock gets compressed 1/3. As the car hits bumps, the shock continues to compress. After the bump, the shock wants to rebound, but the spring can't expand enough it because the shock oil is too heavy. Next bump, the shock compresses more, and it can't rebound again. If this happens too much, the suspension will bottom out.
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Old 07-30-2005, 11:21 PM   #8294
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I run 50 wt and the same pistions on all 4 corners. I use the springs and shock mounting positions to adjust the damping. This keeps the variables down. Since I don't get to practice much, this simplifies the setup. In fact, I do just like wingzero and use tires for most of the setup. Then I tweak the toe and camber to finish it off.
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Old 07-31-2005, 10:44 AM   #8295
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Ok went with 50wt and #1 piston for front and #2 for rear. Only problem is now getting all those bubbles out.

Does anyone have any tips. I tried moving the shock up and down slowly but this didnt get all of them. I then remember I used to do this then dump then and fill in new oil.

This worked out pretty well but there still is always a few left. Would leaving them out all day help?

Or is there a little trick with getting it all out. Let me know.
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