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Old 07-28-2005, 09:15 PM   #8266
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What you have to remember is that these servos are designed for smaller scale aircraft where the accuracy and repeatability is not so critical because the deflection surfaces that control a plane work different to the throttle and brake in a car. Don't want to go into aerodynamics hear though. Nylon gears will always have more give than carbonite or metal geared servos. But as always it's a trade off with weight. What you have to do is consider all the factors that you want such as speed, torque, reliability and accuracy then choose the right tool for the job or as close to as possible. The metal geared servos will also last alot longer under these conditions.
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Old 07-29-2005, 07:35 AM   #8267
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I'd love a discussion about aerodynamics anyway there is certainly no doubting the durability and and rigidity of metal gears, but you have to wonder if its application is necessary in a small servo like this, especially when it uses feedback potentiometers where accurate positioning is non existent anyway. the servos gearing is unlikely to come under any abuse, if for example it was used on the steering. Just the general design and weedy spec of the servo will give it poor repeatability in a slightly demanding application, but probably acceptable though. I guess what can you expect from a $10 servo.
but like you say consider all the factors and choose accordingly.
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Old 07-29-2005, 07:59 AM   #8268
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Well guys no more hitec servos for me. On my 8th it constantly shuts down and thats with it being attached or not attached to the failsafe and then to the RX. I sure don't want to try it in the R40 and have it wisk away from me at 60MPH with only steering to rely on so new servos here I come . I'm also in the process of trying to get a better radio as well however I'm not gonna go 2 balistic. The racing is almost over anyway and soon when it gets cold thats it.
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Old 07-29-2005, 08:09 AM   #8269
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For you guys wanting to use the HS81 and HS225 mini servos just to shave a few grams off your cars, you are crazy. Those servos were not designed for what you plan on putting them through. Just let me not be on a track racing any of you that are using mini servos for throttle when it fails and your car becomes a runaway. I like to shave some weight off my car, but not at the expense of destroying it (costing you more than it would have to just keep the extra grams a regular servo, build to handle the stress, adds).
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Old 07-29-2005, 08:10 AM   #8270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Well guys no more hitec servos for me. On my 8th it constantly shuts down and thats with it being attached or not attached to the failsafe and then to the RX. I sure don't want to try it in the R40 and have it wisk away from me at 60MPH with only steering to rely on so new servos here I come . I'm also in the process of trying to get a better radio as well however I'm not gonna go 2 balistic. The racing is almost over anyway and soon when it gets cold thats it.
yeah you really dont want a servo like that controlling you throttle! I had a KO Propo that used to alway and i mean alway conk out when the throttle was wide open!!
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Old 07-29-2005, 08:14 AM   #8271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Well guys no more hitec servos for me. On my 8th it constantly shuts down and thats with it being attached or not attached to the failsafe and then to the RX. I sure don't want to try it in the R40 and have it wisk away from me at 60MPH with only steering to rely on so new servos here I come . I'm also in the process of trying to get a better radio as well however I'm not gonna go 2 balistic. The racing is almost over anyway and soon when it gets cold thats it.
I have been using Hitec servos in my cars for years. I have had a few go out, but at some point in time, all servos will eventually fail. Recently, I have started to use the higher ending servos and ones with metal gears for both throttle and steering. Try the Airtronics servos, they are very good but a bit pricier than the Hitecs. I have a Airtronics 94742 (discontinued) high speed on that has been in 3 different nitro cars for steering with not a hitch.
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Old 07-29-2005, 08:50 AM   #8272
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To be honest I never really used hitec servos in my pro cars, alway preferred ko's but i've been playing around with there new karbonite and titanium programmable digital servos and I'm well impressed! my fave for steering is the karbonite 6965HB its pretty light but stupid fast. Cool thing about the digital servos is they have a programmable failsafe point, so if somethin goes wrong my throttle servo applies the brake automatically and brings the car to a halt.
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Old 07-29-2005, 09:26 AM   #8273
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Yeah I figured that I'd go Futaba or Airtronics servos. For now I'm still using my 3PDFX, but will switch to synth or spektrum in the future. Most definately I don't want that Hitec on my MRX4 and it not responding for no reason.
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:59 PM   #8274
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Can anyone tell me the weight of the stock diff fluid (for front of car) that comes with the standard r40 kit? Thank you in advance.
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Old 07-29-2005, 03:55 PM   #8275
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It must be 50000W for front diff, in manuel it advises to use grease for rear diff.
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Old 07-29-2005, 04:40 PM   #8276
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5000W in the front:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...0/R40-P05o.jpg

I used 3000W in the rear.
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Old 07-29-2005, 05:19 PM   #8277
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its really 50,000 wt its a typo and its been solved....there are some posts about it a while back.
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Old 07-29-2005, 05:23 PM   #8278
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did u see the new mtx-4 seems it has some design concepts and parts that can be worked on the r40...Specially it has the same type of rear camber/rollercenter setup...Seems to be able to put some parts in the r40 from it . Anyways yea.....whats up and hows everyones r40 doing???
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Old 07-30-2005, 12:51 AM   #8279
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Hey JAG Racing, do ya have a guess on when those Touring Car Caps will be ready?? I'm tired of running foams and CS-27s.
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Old 07-30-2005, 09:10 AM   #8280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero
Hey JAG Racing, do ya have a guess on when those Touring Car Caps will be ready?? I'm tired of running foams and CS-27s.

WingZero - The capped tires have been out for some time... Here is a link.

http://www.bsr-racing.com/cap/ ... looks like BSR is revising the information on the touring capped tires.

What surface are you running on?

Try the 1:10 scale Pro-Lite capped REDS (all 4) or REDS (rear) and GREENS(front). They will run you ~ $50-$60 for a whole set but you'll be amazed at how long they last and the traction they provide. They are 28mm wide.

I think the last time I ran CS-27 with HPI blue inserts the cost was about $40 or so -- the BSR are more expensive but you'll never go back!
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