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Old 07-28-2005, 01:51 PM   #8251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jihernandez
already did that...and by the way, during a race, its almost impossible that you will not get hit by another car nor hit something.

your explanation is acceptable BUT even if I hit anything using my V1R, i have yet to experience this problem. I guess the discussion on the issue of HPI Plastic parts not being that sturdy is true.

I popped the front knuckles 2 times. The second time because I didn't replace the knuckle from the first time. Since then, I have not had any problems. Breaking parts is a strange thing. I remember I used to break a retainer peice for the front hinge pins on my Racer 2. I must have went through 8 or 9 of them. Then all of a sudden, I stopped breaking that part. Then I started breaking rear arms. Probably 8 or 9. Then I started breaking rear uprights. 5 or 6 in a row. All of a sudden, I stopped breaking parts all together. I haven't gotten significantly faster, but more consistant. Some of the breakage can also be from the track materials. Most of the places I race now use road rails now.
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Old 07-28-2005, 04:13 PM   #8252
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ive noticed after installing the light weight two speed that my car doesnt roll backwards anymore. it locks up. also when assembiling the two speed it was a very tight fit when i tried to put the shoes in the spur gear, any ideas what could be causing this?

also has anyone tried the tourezza body?...is this a new aero body?
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Old 07-28-2005, 04:21 PM   #8253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisagame24
ive noticed after installing the light weight two speed that my car doesnt roll backwards anymore. it locks up. also when assembiling the two speed it was a very tight fit when i tried to put the shoes in the spur gear, any ideas what could be causing this?

also has anyone tried the tourezza body?...is this a new aero body?
Sounds like your 2-speed is already engaged? Or is your one-way bearing in backwards? Take the engine out to troubleshoot- might make it easier.
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Old 07-28-2005, 04:22 PM   #8254
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Hey!
How much the battery box, handle, servo saver gets weight? Anybody wieghted them?
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Old 07-28-2005, 04:50 PM   #8255
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Default Weight!!!

For all you guys concerned with weight, have you looked at replacing the throttle servo with a mini metalgeared servo. i have used the HiTech servo which only has about 0.5kg less torque than standard servo but lighter. you will need to make up some custom brackets but it works great. I also run the MTX-3 style reciever pack to save on alot of weight, but for the longer races i am experimenting with Lithium polymer packs for extra mAh but alot less weight than the standard 1200NiMh packs.
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:52 PM   #8256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedbug
For all you guys concerned with weight, have you looked at replacing the throttle servo with a mini metalgeared servo. i have used the HiTech servo which only has about 0.5kg less torque than standard servo but lighter. you will need to make up some custom brackets but it works great. I also run the MTX-3 style reciever pack to save on alot of weight, but for the longer races i am experimenting with Lithium polymer packs for extra mAh but alot less weight than the standard 1200NiMh packs.
My JR Z270 servo weights 1.6 oz. (~ 45 grams). What does the HiTec weight? Whats the PN?

Battery packs - 60 grams for the AAA NiMH 5-cell packs with 800mAH is what most of us use. I do see some postings of a new "flat-pack" technology that might be similar to the Lithium Poly - What one specifically are you talking about?
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:03 PM   #8257
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Default Rear Camber Links

*

Last edited by tranced; 08-16-2005 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:19 PM   #8258
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Default Weight!!!

The part number is HS81MG
weight- 19g
torque- [email protected]
speed- 0.09sec (6volts)

Below is the link for the Hi Tech web site.
You will notice that there is only one mounting screw each end hence the reason for custom made brackets. I made mine out of CF. The smaller dimensions of the mini servo allows you too make brackets with plenty of room to play with to get the servo as low as possible as well.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/homepage/product_fs.htm
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:28 PM   #8259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranced
What's up?

Overlooking my R40 after the Ohio challenge, I found my rear camber links to be completely stripped. The plastic rod ends had collapsed on the tie-rod. Rookie Solara, you said to use some nuts to resist the problem? Does it work well? Are there any other better ways?

With the nut method, could you direct me to which nuts are appropriate to use? Thanks!

When stripped - go ahead and replace them with new ones. I had the same problems early on... They will last until the next "visit with a wall".

Option - Some guys just use the 3mm spacers on each side of the adjustment nut....

Some guys use the turnbuckles from the Pro4 I beleive ( Fast Harry ??? )

The problem with the "nut solution" is finding a LHT 4mm nut? RHT isnt a problem obviously. Even a LHR tap was hard for me to find at a reasonble cost.

I think the problem is in the plastic cup ends...

I had troubles finding a good replacement turnbuckle set-up for the rear of the R40 as it uses a very thin adjustment nut on the turnbuckle becuase the distance between both plastic ends is minimal.

I still run the stock set-up now and just replace them after any major incident.
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:37 PM   #8260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
When stripped - go ahead and replace them with new ones. I had the same problems early on... They will last until the next "visit with a wall".

Option - Some guys just use the 3mm spacers on each side of the adjustment nut....

Some guys use the turnbuckles from the Pro4 I beleive ( Fast Harry ??? )

The problem with the "nut solution" is finding a LHT 4mm nut? RHT isnt a problem obviously. Even a LHR tap was hard for me to find at a reasonble cost.

I think the problem is in the plastic cup ends...

I had troubles finding a good replacement turnbuckle set-up for the rear of the R40 as it uses a very thin adjustment nut on the turnbuckle becuase the distance between both plastic ends is minimal.

I still run the stick set-up and just replace them after any major incident.

I have had some success with using the plastic clip on caster adjusters for a quick fix at the track when you don't have time for a proper repair. Even using these once you replace the plastic ends will help them stop collapsing if you do get hit from the side. I have also used some 3mm washers between the centre of the turn buckle to spread the force and stop the plastic caster adjuster from slipping over the turnbuckle centre.
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:42 PM   #8261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedbug
The part number is HS81MG
weight- 19g
torque- [email protected]
speed- 0.09sec (6volts)

Below is the link for the Hi Tech web site.
You will notice that there is only one mounting screw each end hence the reason for custom made brackets. I made mine out of CF. The smaller dimensions of the mini servo allows you too make brackets with plenty of room to play with to get the servo as low as possible as well.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/homepage/product_fs.htm

Good find at a good price too ...

Hitec81 ($27) -- 19 grams 6V[42 oz/in. & .09 sec]
Hitec225 ($32) -- 31 grams 6V[67 oz/in. & .11 sec]
JR270 ($17) -- 45 grams 6V[49 oz/in. & .19 sec]

I run the JR270 servo -- If that Hitec81 can handle the brake resistance then man, what a cheap way to loose 25 grams -- THanks.
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:49 PM   #8262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedbug
The part number is HS81MG
weight- 19g
torque- [email protected]
speed- 0.09sec (6volts)

Below is the link for the Hi Tech web site.
You will notice that there is only one mounting screw each end hence the reason for custom made brackets. I made mine out of CF. The smaller dimensions of the mini servo allows you too make brackets with plenty of room to play with to get the servo as low as possible as well.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/homepage/product_fs.htm
I tried the HS81 nylon geared one which is the same spec but a little lighter, 16g I think. I found it far to weedy though. 5kg+ gives me insane brakes, maybe if you run the 1 way front diff its worth considering though. But I like all 4 wheels doing the braking, which intern needs more braking effort.
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:50 PM   #8263
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I have been running it now for a couple of months and haven't had any drama
with not getting enough brakes. It will quite easily lock the wheels if you want it set that way, but i have it set up so that full brake on trigger is just at the point of locking up.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:17 PM   #8264
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For that sized servo and the required application i wouldn't even bother trying a nylon geared servo, as you discovered nylon is for lack of a better word "squishy" which is inconsistent with results. The metal gears however have alot less flex and are more predictable with consistant results.
you could also try the 85MG as it has 3.5kg torque, but my LHS didn't have one at the time.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:41 PM   #8265
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I had it lying around doing nothing, you say for that sized servo? surely with small low torque servos such as the hs81 you can get away with using nylon gears
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