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Old 07-22-2005, 06:12 PM   #8131
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I built mine last night in fact. I ALWAYS use the hard arms now and I use the incredibly expensive lower rear arm mounts ($46!!!) cause they work awesome. I used a lightweight receiver pack and a full set of carbide bearings and thats my only mods. I dont use the CF rear hubs tho as my bearings bound up like crazy in them. Curiously my LW 2 speed went together smooth as silk. It must be a machining tolerance thing!! I always adjust the shoe spacer screws to make a tiny tiny gap, screw the adjuster screws in gently until they bottom then back them out 2 3/4 turns (for my track).
Sounds very nice. Also I think your right the instructions confused me when they said spring collar as I guess they are referring to the brass tube.

Weird so you use the standard hubs as well. I notice the plastic bends a lot, but this might be in conjunction with the plastic arms.

Im hoping my bearings go in well. I wouldnt think that would happen to the bearings...but if they do bind I can always just sand that a bit as well.

I plan on making this work perfect. It always erks me when things dont go right, so Ill sit there and waste days on perfecting it.

One final thing when you said rear arm mounts are you talking about the aluminum ones. I got the 3racing ones they were much cheaper but ommited them due to the weight and the fact that the plastic is directly laying on the metal chassis. But did you seriously notice a good improvement cause Im not too far into it where I can easily swap in the aluminum ones.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 07-22-2005, 06:21 PM   #8132
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Hmmm Are you talking about the piece that covers the foam bumper? Or the thing that says hpi.

CF wouldnt look much differnet , but it also wouldnt be CF it would be cg or a gc which is a graphite composite.

But if your talking about the CF Carbon Fiber front bumper piece. You can get those. It also helps hold things togther a little more tightly up front.
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Old 07-22-2005, 06:38 PM   #8133
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Part that covers front diff.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:07 PM   #8134
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Originally Posted by k_bojar
Hey man, did you get this resolved???

I was having a similar problem and I found out the the 2speed clutch was not assembled correctly...I took my 2speed clutch apart and rebuild it, now I have some play around the shoes and I'm getting the throttle response I was missing AND I'm shifting into 2nd gear!!!

So all this time I've been screwing around with the clutch on the engine, it was in the 2speed all along...what a PITA!!
ah right, so you were alway stuck in 2nd gear, and it was killing the clutch when pulling away. I've been thinkin maybe mines the same as the gear its in has killer top end!! I was thinkin god knows what it will be like when it shifts into 2nd. although my kit came with the green pinions which will give it the best top end i think. Thing is my clutch was correctly put together and the shoes are free to rotate, is gap an issue? I was thinkin if you just have the spring applying less tension it would simply compensate for the slightly larger gap, i dunno.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:19 PM   #8135
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Hey I was just wondering when you guys go to races to you true your new tires or before mains?

Just wondering how much this helps. I kinda feel like im just going to be putting the tire one and never truing them. Dont have the money to buy a tire truer.

But just wondering if any of you do run this and what diameters do you run.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:33 PM   #8136
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Im bored. So I just started modifying my first crankshaft. Its a cv-r motor for my drake truck. Im pretty amazed at my first cut on it. I then went in and smoothed it out. I guess I got lucky with my bits, cause it looks pretty nice.

Next im going to bevel the rod since the cv-r rod is just a thick square looking rod. That will weaken it some but not badly and will reduce weight , increase flow.

Then im going to do a little exterior porting and then polishing. No timing changes or anything drastic. Im not good at that...but Ill let you guys know.

Its kinda fun messing and reviving old motors. Has anyone else tried this with their own motors? I know a lot of the motors we buy for these cars come pretty nice straight out. I know I wouldnt touch my d3r...but I tried some stuff with my nova a bit...havent run it yet though. Im more or less hoping on that one I cure its flame out problem.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:33 PM   #8137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
..... And lucky ol me they dont really readily sell the lw 2 speed shoes in the US. Whats up with that crap?

HPI#87175 is the maintenance kit WITH the shoes for the 0.8 LW 2-SP. Tower doesnt list it but it is a valid HPI part number; I have one right in front of me
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:35 PM   #8138
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Originally Posted by JAG Racing
HPI#87175 is the maintenance kit WITH the shoes for the 0.8 LW 2-SP. Tower doesnt list it but it is a valid HPI part number; I have one right in front of me
Does it show up @ hpiracing.com. Only place that part shows up for me is rcmart I already tried.

Tower lists the item though under the parts thing I believe for the kit. Stuff like that erks me. Especially when I have a feeling this 2speed is going to give me some troubles now.

Im definently bringing two cars to my next race....actually its going to be 3. But thats my new electric.
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Old 07-22-2005, 08:03 PM   #8139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Does it show up @ hpiracing.com. Only place that part shows up for me is rcmart I already tried.

Tower lists the item though under the parts thing I believe for the kit. Stuff like that erks me. Especially when I have a feeling this 2speed is going to give me some troubles now.

Im definently bringing two cars to my next race....actually its going to be 3. But thats my new electric.
I am seeing a few posts lately on the LW 2-speed but I tell you that mine is consistent and trouble-free. Not sure whats going on.

Just purchase a MTX-3 clutch and looking forward to the aluminum clutchbell testing.

Also purchased the HPI 5-cell pack from RC-Champ - should have it next week. Funny thing is I contacted Sanyo Tech support (US) and they tell me their lightest AAA NiMH cell weights in at 12-13g which would equate to a 5-cell pack weighing in right over 60+ grams. I am curious to whether this pack I receive really will come in around 40 - 45 grams.
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:51 PM   #8140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
I am seeing a few posts lately on the LW 2-speed but I tell you that mine is consistent and trouble-free. Not sure whats going on.

Just purchase a MTX-3 clutch and looking forward to the aluminum clutchbell testing.

Also purchased the HPI 5-cell pack from RC-Champ - should have it next week. Funny thing is I contacted Sanyo Tech support (US) and they tell me their lightest AAA NiMH cell weights in at 12-13g which would equate to a 5-cell pack weighing in right over 60+ grams. I am curious to whether this pack I receive really will come in around 40 - 45 grams.
The HPI pack uses 2/3 size AAA not full size AAA. 2/3rd of 60 = ???
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:23 PM   #8141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The HPI pack uses 2/3 size AAA not full size AAA. 2/3rd of 60 = ???
That math works but when cells get smaller their current capacity is also reduced; as I'm sure you know. I don't see any 800mAH 2/3 AAA cells on the net anywhere. Most 2/3 AAA cells I see are only 300mAH. So how they are able to get 800mAH current capacity out of 2/3 AAA -- Maybe a series-parallel configuration ??? I'll just have to wait and see.
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Old 07-23-2005, 07:02 AM   #8142
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Originally Posted by JAG Racing
That math works but when cells get smaller their current capacity is also reduced; as I'm sure you know. I don't see any 800mAH 2/3 AAA cells on the net anywhere. Most 2/3 AAA cells I see are only 300mAH. So how they are able to get 800mAH current capacity out of 2/3 AAA -- Maybe a series-parallel configuration ??? I'll just have to wait and see.
You got me man, I have no idea all I know is I get 7xx mah into mine somehow. You will love the pack, its 40 some grams and lasts me a race meet on 1 charge, plus mine is well over a year old and still kicking good as new.
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Old 07-23-2005, 08:42 AM   #8143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Hey I was just wondering when you guys go to races to you true your new tires or before mains?

Just wondering how much this helps. I kinda feel like im just going to be putting the tire one and never truing them. Dont have the money to buy a tire truer.

But just wondering if any of you do run this and what diameters do you run.
Most of the guys I race with, run the tires at the full diameter...Some do true them down, before racing, during quailifying and before the mains - especially if there is some major coning on the rear tires...

I will probably only true mine before the mains - if at all....
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:35 AM   #8144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
You got me man, I have no idea all I know is I get 7xx mah into mine somehow. You will love the pack, its 40 some grams and lasts me a race meet on 1 charge, plus mine is well over a year old and still kicking good as new.

Well - I just recevied the battery pack and it weighs 64 grams..... this all makes sense I guess. It's still a good deal at $29 - no big deal.

AMG - Did you "zero" your scale before measuring I think if you weigh yours again ( without drinking the 6-pack ) you see it weighs 60+ as well. Just ribbin ya...
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:44 AM   #8145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Hey I was just wondering when you guys go to races to you true your new tires or before mains?

Just wondering how much this helps. I kinda feel like im just going to be putting the tire one and never truing them. Dont have the money to buy a tire truer.

But just wondering if any of you do run this and what diameters do you run.
Yes - I true them to about 60mm - main benefit is "gearing" and second benefit is shorter sidewall is more firm - better cornering.

If your competition is not blowing you away out of the corners I would not bother then. Like I said the main benefit is gearing your engine to stay at peak HP range. The competition I run with the majority true their tires. You can also provide better "overdrive/underdrive" action by truing the front tires a little different diameters.
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