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Old 07-22-2005, 12:27 PM   #8116
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the tightness is supposed to be real tight by hand when u first get it...so u get a good fit imbetween ur sleeve and piston during break in. U could try loosening it up by hand. I used to lube it up wiht some tri-flow through the glowplug hole. Heat it up with a blow dryer and then worked the pisyon up and down via the flywheel. then when i started my engines they came to life easy.
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:31 PM   #8117
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rapid roy so how far does ur car need to travel inorder to shift now? I dont really like to run 2nd gear in front of my house but it seems that the it engages late...On track i cant really noticing it shifting cause i am paying attention to the other cars and the track ahead.
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Old 07-22-2005, 01:47 PM   #8118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
BTW, what exactly is the purpose of the spring and ball that goes into the center of the shoe. Does it give the shaft flange somthing to press against as it starts to spin? Do you use it like a pre-load to make the adjustment springs softer? I tightned the adjustment screws all the way down, then tightned the ball bearing down till it touched, then backed it off just 1/8 turn. Then I started adjusting for the shift point.
Thanks for the reply Roy! I'm pretty interested to find out what the purpose of the 2 Speed Clutch Shoe Boss is to, it would give me a better understanding of the r40's 2 speed transmission.

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Old 07-22-2005, 02:38 PM   #8119
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Or your fingers.


or your eyes when you snap the blade...
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Old 07-22-2005, 03:26 PM   #8120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
Ok from what I understand if I get the distance between A and B (the clutchbell and flywheel) between 0.2mm and 0.5mm I've pretty much created the correct distance the clutch pad has to move to make contact with the clutch bell and also compensate for the possible difference in crank shaft length between engines. and b4 that I made sure that the end of the 87092 bolt sticks out between 0.5mm and 0.8mm from the 87095 bolt so the spring is roughly applyin the right pressure on the clutch pad holding it back from engaging to early.
If my understandings right I should be able to get the clutch working and not need to loosen bolts excessively and add loads of spacers b4 the thrust bearing unless I have defective parts or theres summit the manual didnt tell me about.

Hey man, did you get this resolved???

I was having a similar problem and I found out the the 2speed clutch was not assembled correctly...I took my 2speed clutch apart and rebuild it, now I have some play around the shoes and I'm getting the throttle response I was missing AND I'm shifting into 2nd gear!!!

So all this time I've been screwing around with the clutch on the engine, it was in the 2speed all along...what a PITA!!
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Old 07-22-2005, 03:26 PM   #8121
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Hey.
Does R40 uses sub c batteries? How much it gets weight? Instead of it, can we use aaa cells?
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Old 07-22-2005, 03:29 PM   #8122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheroad
Hey.
Does R40 uses sub c batteries? How much it gets weight? Instead of it, can we use aaa cells?
The R40 can use either the 2/3A cells (standard for a receiver pack) or the "light-weight" 5 AAA cell pack...

Dunno why you would want a sub-C in there?
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Old 07-22-2005, 04:51 PM   #8123
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Now im jealous. Either way im waiting on the HARA edition. As soon as I get the wild box Ill be more than happy I waited lol.

But seriously this thing is due in august so. Thats right around the corner. Im sure itll start showing up soon.

Where did you get your 2005 though. Havent come across that one yet. Have you received it yet? Let us know everything lol. I want to know how much the new chassis weighs.
Sorry man I made a typo it is only a 2004 I dont think you can get the 2005 yet
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Old 07-22-2005, 04:53 PM   #8124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Whoa a new STS motor?!? Someone was drilling dino about a new motor and never heard anything out of him.

Wow , yeah my d3r was pretty damn nice on the inside. Probably the most worked over motor ive seen. My nova was nice but it still had a lot of the rough pourous metal in the case and certain areas. While the d3r is sharp all over.

How did you get that thing? Now im super jealous , lol.
Its a team only motor, only team drivers have it. I dont even know if it is a new motor as in it will be produced or not it may just be an R&D motor design only.
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Old 07-22-2005, 04:56 PM   #8125
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Yea dino said they were all hand made. And there aren't many of them.
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Old 07-22-2005, 05:13 PM   #8126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Its a team only motor, only team drivers have it. I dont even know if it is a new motor as in it will be produced or not it may just be an R&D motor design only.
So are you a team driver for STS? If so you da man! Either way if you arent good find on that motor. How could I score one, if there is a chance too?
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Old 07-22-2005, 05:16 PM   #8127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Sorry man I made a typo it is only a 2004 I dont think you can get the 2005 yet
Its all good. Least im back down to just standard jealousy now. But cool to hear. Are you going cf arms and all that. Let us know how the build goes , especially on the lw 2speed....but im sure you probably already dealt with that part.

Im still kinda clueless on what to do with the brass pipes. They kinda got loose after I pushed them down a little. I kinda dont like that jiggling around free. Another thing though be careful when tightening I kinda made some stress points. And lucky ol me they dont really readily sell the lw 2 speed shoes in the US. Whats up with that crap?
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Old 07-22-2005, 05:31 PM   #8128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
So are you a team driver for STS? If so you da man! Either way if you arent good find on that motor. How could I score one, if there is a chance too?
Here is Dinos post on the topic: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=1833

The main point of my post is "look out STS is developing some very cool stuff which should be arriving soon"
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Old 07-22-2005, 05:35 PM   #8129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Its all good. Least im back down to just standard jealousy now. But cool to hear. Are you going cf arms and all that. Let us know how the build goes , especially on the lw 2speed....but im sure you probably already dealt with that part.

Im still kinda clueless on what to do with the brass pipes. They kinda got loose after I pushed them down a little. I kinda dont like that jiggling around free. Another thing though be careful when tightening I kinda made some stress points. And lucky ol me they dont really readily sell the lw 2 speed shoes in the US. Whats up with that crap?
I built mine last night in fact. I ALWAYS use the hard arms now and I use the incredibly expensive lower rear arm mounts ($46!!!) cause they work awesome. I used a lightweight receiver pack and a full set of carbide bearings and thats my only mods. I dont use the CF rear hubs tho as my bearings bound up like crazy in them. Curiously my LW 2 speed went together smooth as silk. It must be a machining tolerance thing!! I always adjust the shoe spacer screws to make a tiny tiny gap, screw the adjuster screws in gently until they bottom then back them out 2 3/4 turns (for my track).
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Old 07-22-2005, 06:07 PM   #8130
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Is there anyone out there that makes a CF front bulkhead for the R40? I want one bad cause I'm tired of the one on there. It just looks out of place.
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