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Old 07-22-2005, 07:49 AM   #8101
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Hara in 2003 beat every US driver and MANY MANY Gas specialists with the R40 using a store bought NS12 S3. Hara is not a gas specialist driver. ALL the other teams had the fancy team only special motors. That is a massive achievement against a range of talent but he works incredibly hard to do it.
I wonder what his real winning trait/s are. He probably has matrix powers. Little do we know hes driving in bullet time the whole time.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:57 AM   #8102
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Just FYI GPM is considered to be the worst quality you can get in Asia. Their Titanium products are very low in actual titanium. I would steer away from their products unless you really need to. Also their brake disc is machined but not ground flat. It should work OK though.

I tested the CF brake pads a few years ago. I will be interested to see what you think of them. All I can say about mine is dont use a oneway with them.
Yeah I noticed the cf brake plates are thicker. 1.5mm vs 1 so total thickness with both is 3mm vs 2mm stock. Removing 1mm of brake play. So I loosened the screw just a tiny bit to give back maybe .2 or so. I figure that should be enough.

Im hoping they arent touchy , I always can throw on the stock set. I do have a ton of delta brake pads from the proceed , wonder if those fit if not Ill make them and test those out.

Also gpm is terrible compared to who? I actually noticed there product to be better than 3racing at times. I really dont think 3racing , integy , eagle , gpm are good though, but there ok. If it works though great. Other than that I would stray from the 3racing steering kit and im sure there was another part I didnt like. But other than that there stuff isnt that bad.

As for the gpm ti brake disc. Just as long as it lasts and its lightweight, then im good.
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Old 07-22-2005, 07:59 AM   #8103
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Talk to HPI USA. The R40 2005 edition I just bought cost US$305, a bit less than the MTX3 and V1RRR. It comes with ALL the goodies in the box. It is just HPI USA refuses to sell it to you poor guys.
Now im jealous. Either way im waiting on the HARA edition. As soon as I get the wild box Ill be more than happy I waited lol.

But seriously this thing is due in august so. Thats right around the corner. Im sure itll start showing up soon.

Where did you get your 2005 though. Havent come across that one yet. Have you received it yet? Let us know everything lol. I want to know how much the new chassis weighs.
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Old 07-22-2005, 08:03 AM   #8104
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For the STS lovers here.......... Here is the new factory team motor the D12X. I have no idea whether this motor will ever be in production but it will be powering my R40 next week on the 2006 worlds track. This thing is a work of art inside and has a new carb and fancy green head. Sorry about the shocking photos, I need to get a proper camera this is my phone camera.
Whoa a new STS motor?!? Someone was drilling dino about a new motor and never heard anything out of him.

Wow , yeah my d3r was pretty damn nice on the inside. Probably the most worked over motor ive seen. My nova was nice but it still had a lot of the rough pourous metal in the case and certain areas. While the d3r is sharp all over.

How did you get that thing? Now im super jealous , lol.
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Old 07-22-2005, 08:08 AM   #8105
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How did you get that. Me and dino might have a little talk cause I WANT ONE.
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:11 AM   #8106
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Default collet on novarossi

just recieved my nsr12s3, but im stumped on one thing. the engine has what seems to be a collet on the crankshaft, which is too small for the r40 flywheel. do i take the one on the engine off and put on the collet included with the r40? i no its sounds like a really noob q. but im not used to on road and this is my first 'major' engine purchase so i dont wanna mess it up. thanks for the help guys
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:14 AM   #8107
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LOL I had the same problem just use the one included in the kit.
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Old 07-22-2005, 10:16 AM   #8108
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how do i take the engine one off?
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:01 AM   #8109
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Just pull it off.
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:47 AM   #8110
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Originally Posted by Hesky
oh yeah, my stock 2 speed transmission is being as lame as the clutch on my new r40, it refuses to engage 2nd gear, even when both shoe spring screws are unscrewed to the point where there just through the nylon bit of the lock nuts. I thought maybe I'm constantly in second so screwed it only 2 turns from being tight (manual says 5) and still the same (I cant have been in 2nd). I made sure I have that little gap between the shoes.
This kit is really testing me, when it really shouldnt be!
Getting the shift point set can be a major PIA. With my R40 I only had to make a few tweaks after I built it. My son's car was a different story. I spent 2 race days trying to get it to shift. I kept forgetting to try and set it up between races. Before the last race though I ran the car in front of my house. It took me 2 or 3 hours to finally get it to shift. It wouldn't shift and I couldn't really tell if it was stuck in 1st or going to 2nd immediatly. I kept making small adjustments with no success. I finally cranked it down all the way and run it. I then decided that it had been going straight the 2nd gear because it was topping out. Before it seemed to keep accelerating. I backed each screw out 2 turns and ran it again. No shift. Bring it in, back out 1/2 turn each. Run it. I just kept doing that about 5 more times until it shifted. Man I was almost junping up and down with joy. Pulled it off and made a very small adjustment 2 or 3 more times. After that it was shifting like a dream. Sometimes I can hit close on initial setup, other times I just have to be methodical. I probably adjusted more then 20 times and each time I had to pull the e clip off and expose the shoes because I just couldn't seem to get the hex driver to engage the screw through the adjustment hole.

BTW, what exactly is the purpose of the spring and ball that goes into the center of the shoe. Does it give the shaft flange somthing to press against as it starts to spin? Do you use it like a pre-load to make the adjustment springs softer? I tightned the adjustment screws all the way down, then tightned the ball bearing down till it touched, then backed it off just 1/8 turn. Then I started adjusting for the shift point.
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:51 AM   #8111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samisnake
how do i take the engine one off?
Use a small flat screwdriver and wedge it into the gap in the collet. Then twist, the collet will expand and you can work it off the shaft. If the gap is too small, you can use and exacto knife blade to spread it. Just be really carefull not to damage the bearing cover.
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:03 PM   #8112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Use a small flat screwdriver and wedge it into the gap in the collet. Then twist, the collet will expand and you can work it off the shaft. If the gap is too small, you can use and exacto knife blade to spread it. Just be really carefull not to damage the bearing cover.

Or your fingers.
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:09 PM   #8113
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Yea my collets just slide right off.....
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:12 PM   #8114
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Most of mine didn't
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:14 PM   #8115
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thanks for that. got it off
just a more general question; now ive got my flywheel on, should i be able to make a revolution just by turning the flywheel? i have another engine and i can do this, however it is a used engine. this nova is new and not broken in (this is my first new engine), and cannot. i know new engines are tight, but this is TIGHT. will a starter box have the problem of not being able to turn the engine over when breaking it in?
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