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Old 07-21-2005, 05:44 AM   #8071
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Just an update on the 2004 edition build.

So far this car looks amazing! Not one spec of purple on it yet either. Nothing but black everywhere and grey. Also some of the lightweight parts I got are pretty amazing. Ill have all the stats up once im done, but you guys will be pretty amazed at how much you can save on a few extra parts I found.

Lets just say the brake disc weighs around 8 , gpm ti 4. Thats essentially like getting another half of the lw shaft reduced. Not only that its a large spinning weight not a nice compact shaft, so removing 4 grams off the shaft like that ought to have a major effect on performance. Cant wait to drive this thing.
Mine is 1717 now ready for our state championships in 1 weeks time. Whats yours weigh in at? I have been using the serpent 710 optional disc break which also weighs in at around 4 grams for about 1 year. Any of the ground discs are much better than the pressed discs. If you can feel the 4 grams then awesome I did not feel it. However I find the ultra smooth ground discs allow you to run much higher brake force without spinning out. Also I use a metal/teflon impregnated brake pad instead of the R40 standard brake pad which applied more force but will not allow the disc to lock.
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Old 07-21-2005, 06:15 AM   #8072
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Mine is 1717 now ready for our state championships in 1 weeks time. Whats yours weigh in at? I have been using the serpent 710 optional disc break which also weighs in at around 4 grams for about 1 year. Any of the ground discs are much better than the pressed discs. If you can feel the 4 grams then awesome I did not feel it. However I find the ultra smooth ground discs allow you to run much higher brake force without spinning out. Also I use a metal/teflon impregnated brake pad instead of the R40 standard brake pad which applied more force but will not allow the disc to lock.
did the 710 brake disc fit right on?....ant part #...where did you get the brake pads from?...thanks
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Old 07-21-2005, 07:15 AM   #8073
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you da man

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Old 07-21-2005, 07:54 AM   #8074
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did the 710 brake disc fit right on?....ant part #...where did you get the brake pads from?...thanks
You can get the gpm ti for like $10 dollars. It also comes with 2 mounting holes. So when you wear a bunch of slop into the one set you can move onto the other on the same disc and get a nice tight brake disc again, essentially double the life.

I have a crap load of brake discs for the proceed. Not sure if they are the same size. But If they that would be pretty cool.

I also went with the CF brake plates....those ended up being a bit lighter as well. The list just goes on and on.

As for my total weight not sure yet. Will see though it should be pretty much the lightest R40 on the forum once Im done...but we will see. I also need to find a scale that can do the total weight cause mine is limited to 500.
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:06 AM   #8075
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:07 AM   #8076
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You can get the gpm ti for like $10 dollars.
is that gpm stamped or milled?..
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:12 AM   #8077
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is that gpm stamped or milled?..
The hpi one has that rounded effect. The gpm is very straight cut looking and flat, I almost wanted to bevel the edges but didnt have time. Also let me give you some exact numbers. The stock brake disc weighs , 8.6 grams the gpm ti disc 4.8. A difference of 3.8g.

BTW got those cg hubs working pretty free, lets say my fingers hurt. But basically if anyone wants their cg hubs to work freely. Find a good TV show a towell and just start working those arms with them semi tightened. That will help heat and loosen things.

Just keep repeating tightening and loosening until the hubs move freely. Took me 2-3 hours worth of doing this. But its well worth it when I post this video of how the stock r40 arms and hubs move vs cg. Should make us laugh.
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:30 AM   #8078
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Mine is 1717 now ready for our state championships in 1 weeks time. Whats yours weigh in at? I have been using the serpent 710 optional disc break which also weighs in at around 4 grams for about 1 year. Any of the ground discs are much better than the pressed discs. If you can feel the 4 grams then awesome I did not feel it. However I find the ultra smooth ground discs allow you to run much higher brake force without spinning out. Also I use a metal/teflon impregnated brake pad instead of the R40 standard brake pad which applied more force but will not allow the disc to lock.
my cars stock dry weight + body shell comes in at just under 1900g, How you and fastharry get your cars so light I will never know. i'm running pretty light electronics also. The difference in weight is the exact same weight as a 40g ipod (dont ask why I now exactly how much an ipod weighs and why I compared it I'm weird ). once I find out why my clutch is being so gay I will start to implement the strict diet I have planed for my new fat baby.
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:35 AM   #8079
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That was one of the main reasons I stoped using the r40. It took to much to get it perfect. I had no problems other than the weight and the steering slop. Hpi really banged the nail in the head when they conned us into buying all of the hopups. With the money you spend getting the hopups you may as well buy a V1 3R or a MTX.
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:46 AM   #8080
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Dont those cars needs some modifications as well? Also with the new mugen mtx4 coming out soon. I wouldnt bother buying anything else till people get to test that one out.

I like the R40. It is sort of a con though with hara driving and winning. He could drive a purple and pink paint bucket to victory if it had wheels.

But its the fact that it can be done that does make a car worth using. Im a major hpi fan so im pretty at home with the r40. Its very familiar in ways, but its also very new to me.

Ive also been wanting the r40 since it came out, then to top it off hara drives it and wins with it. I was sold.

Just never was able to afford it till now as they went down in price and I found a lot of places with cheap motors. I always thought this. Ok new r40 , 350 , new race motor 300 , new pipe 100 , foam tire sets 100....So im like damn cant happen.

Now I find a r40 with race motor for 250 , came with foams that were used. Know what I did , went and practiced , qualified and raced 2 race weekends with those and got 1st the 1st time. 2nd in the qualifier for race 2 and then got beaten into 5 th place from 1st in the main.

Id say its a good car and figuring what I was able to do on a major major budget im really happy. I then found jaco nitro shoes for next to nothing also found a place with ellegi rubbers for 4 dollars a pair for my pro4 and like I said more than happy Ive been able to budget my racing like this. Its all perfect and probably has a lot to do with timing. I guess im coming in and getting the older car, but it works for me and the price is great.

Then comes in my new race motor which I got for $130. Cant beat that.

Just many reasons why I chose the R40, my first race with it...the cars setup wasnt well prepared, my first time out in the car, basically my first race, my first time driving with a one-way on used foams and motor that wouldnt allow me to shift into second all while using s3003 standard servos!

If I was able to win with all that against me. Ill stick with it.
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:54 AM   #8081
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Ehhhh Shut up. You just got lucky

But the reason I got the 3 instead of waiting for the 4 because 1 currently I'm unemployed. And I wanted something solid to start on. I haven't had the time to really race anything this year. But I think I realized that I should sell the r40 when I drove the fT NTc3. It seemed to be quicker than the r40 with the same motor. After I found that prospec I just had to jump on it.
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:56 AM   #8082
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yes there are a lot of hopups for the R40 but you really don't need to buy any of them in order to be competative with it. I ran mine competatively for a full season before I did any upgrades. Yes the hopups do help the performance of the car the biggest difference i've seen so far would be the LW2speed and the LW shafts and carbonfiber shocktowers other then that you really don't "NEED" much else for about 100$ in hopups you now have a much more responsive car.

Personally I'd rather get the kit for less then upgrade it as my budget and skills allow, by upgrading the car slowly you get a chance to learn more about the setup and exactly what certain parts do.

IMO a very light car has a tendency to feel twitchy wheras a slightly heavier car has a more planted feel, Personally i'd rather a slightly heavier car mid 1800's is fine with me i've driven an R40 in the low 1700's way to twitchy for my likeing. all in all it's just a matter of personal preferance. I myself don't do this for a living this is just a hobby for me and I doubt I could see anything other the a significant difference (IE the stock 2speed vs the LW 2speed) in the car since I only really get to drive it on the weekends unlike some of the pro's who drive just about everyday.
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:59 AM   #8083
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Its just like the RD turbo pipe. When hara one won the nats with it It was one of the best pipes out there. And I believed it. So did many others. But now its one sorriest pipes. Getting passed up by CVEC, Skyline and the yokomo pipe just to name a few.
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:23 PM   #8084
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Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Its just like the RD turbo pipe. When hara one won the nats with it It was one of the best pipes out there. And I believed it. So did many others. But now its one sorriest pipes. Getting passed up by CVEC, Skyline and the yokomo pipe just to name a few.
All the new stuff you can buy every month would bankrupt anybody. Kinda like getting a computer. You need to decide what you can or cant spend money on and be okay with it.

I have 2 R40's. One I race and one my son races. Mine has the LW chassis, LW shafts, LW shock towers, Alum shocks, LW upper deck and his is bone stock. I use an RB V.12 with a RD logics turbo (original one) pipe. He uses an HPI XR.12 with the THS pipe on it. Add to this I use a Futaba 3PDF radio and he uses a Futaba Magnum PEKA radio. Our servo's and tires are the same. Needless to say, my car is much quicker and has better top end then his.

Last race, we get put into the same class. In the main, I get punted at the start, the first 5 cars all tangle and he squirts through. I spent the next 3-1/2 minutes chasing down his 1/2 lap lead and barely beat him by 6 seconds for the win. The 3rd place car was 3 laps down. We had the best time ever and can't wait to race again. Thats what racing RC is all about. Both cars were very competative. Its all about the driver.
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:32 PM   #8085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Dont those cars needs some modifications as well? Also with the new mugen mtx4 coming out soon. I wouldnt bother buying anything else till people get to test that one out.

I like the R40. It is sort of a con though with hara driving and winning. He could drive a purple and pink paint bucket to victory if it had wheels.

But its the fact that it can be done that does make a car worth using. Im a major hpi fan so im pretty at home with the r40. Its very familiar in ways, but its also very new to me.

Ive also been wanting the r40 since it came out, then to top it off hara drives it and wins with it. I was sold.

Just never was able to afford it till now as they went down in price and I found a lot of places with cheap motors. I always thought this. Ok new r40 , 350 , new race motor 300 , new pipe 100 , foam tire sets 100....So im like damn cant happen.

Now I find a r40 with race motor for 250 , came with foams that were used. Know what I did , went and practiced , qualified and raced 2 race weekends with those and got 1st the 1st time. 2nd in the qualifier for race 2 and then got beaten into 5 th place from 1st in the main.

Id say its a good car and figuring what I was able to do on a major major budget im really happy. I then found jaco nitro shoes for next to nothing also found a place with ellegi rubbers for 4 dollars a pair for my pro4 and like I said more than happy Ive been able to budget my racing like this. Its all perfect and probably has a lot to do with timing. I guess im coming in and getting the older car, but it works for me and the price is great.

Then comes in my new race motor which I got for $130. Cant beat that.

Just many reasons why I chose the R40, my first race with it...the cars setup wasnt well prepared, my first time out in the car, basically my first race, my first time driving with a one-way on used foams and motor that wouldnt allow me to shift into second all while using s3003 standard servos!

If I was able to win with all that against me. Ill stick with it.
Yeah much the same here, I probably wouldnt have brought the r40 if it was of equal price to the serpent, mugens etc... but at the time it was like well under 3 times cheaper than any of the kits here in the uk. On that basis I've budgeted my motor and spent less on that than the kit. This is my 1st delve into on road nitro racing and everything together has cost me less than my graphite xxx-4 rolling chassis alone!!!
Yeah the kit has a few issues such as steering slop but I got rid of that by using spare bearings and shims I had lying around to get rid of slack and smooth it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Its just like the RD turbo pipe. When hara one won the nats with it It was one of the best pipes out there. And I believed it. So did many others. But now its one sorriest pipes. Getting passed up by CVEC, Skyline and the yokomo pipe just to name a few.
whats wrong with the rdl pipe, it has a good tune on it and it look well put together, I noticed the manifold needed deburring and smoothing but thats much the same as the r40 kit, a little free prep and work and you save lots of cash and it will run with the big guys!

and to think I nearly brought a basic TC3 Plus for much more $$!
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