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Old 07-19-2005, 05:33 PM   #8041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Just ran into another thing. I put the lw 2 speed clutch into the 2 speed housing and its really tight with the slight gap suggested. I basically had to close it to get it to fit and its still rubbing a bit when I spin it. I checked the one I run now and it spins inside without rubbing.

Is this normal? Will it wear down or should I do some sort of sanding?
This should be a simple thing to solve. Adjust "in" on the two screws to reduce the amount of gap (the screws with the balls) between the two halfs. Beveling the edge simply "de-berrs" the edge where a high spot might be but don't bevel very much, if any. Do not attempt to sand the shoe surface .... probably a manufacturing tolerance issue.
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Old 07-19-2005, 05:45 PM   #8042
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Man would it be nice if we could start "categories" under this thread. Many people are looking for info that we have covered previously but can't seem to locate it --
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:02 PM   #8043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbous
I have a used R40 and have put only a few tanks on it so far, so I dont' know what a brand new LW clutch should fit like. But I would sand it down so it spins freely. I imagine it would wear down eventually, but I personally wouldn't want to worry about inconsistent engagment issues.

Hey Roy, sorry I missed you at the last LM race. Hopefully I can get this thing race ready for next month's race. Hopefully also we won't have to worry about this triple digit weather!
Arnel,

I'm trying to get my wife to let me race in August. We will be in the middle of moving twice (long story). Things might work out though. So far things are ahead of schedule.

Forgot to post results from my last race. The sportsman nitro class had a full 10 racers so charlie put me in the rookie nitro class. Now I was in the same race as my son. So now I need to prep and start 2 gas cars for a single race. The good thing is that my son (13 yrs old) finally learned how to start, fuel and prep his car for a race. The result, I end up winning the main, but had to come back from 1/2 a lap down with 1 min left to beat my own son. We had the best time though and he can't wait to race again.
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:37 PM   #8044
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Default Lightweight Aluminum Clutch Bell

AMG - Was it you that also purchased the JP aluminum clutchbell?

Did you buy Mugen bearings or just an equivalent? If other, what sizes will I need? I'm going to try it out soon!

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2005, 08:46 PM   #8045
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Here are some of my R40's for sale check em out there in great condition and need to be moved. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=78166
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Old 07-19-2005, 08:49 PM   #8046
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Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Man would it be nice if we could start "categories" under this thread. Many people are looking for info that we have covered previously but can't seem to locate it --
I dont think it would help.. the above post is a perfect example of why not.
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:11 PM   #8047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
This should be a simple thing to solve. Adjust "in" on the two screws to reduce the amount of gap (the screws with the balls) between the two halfs. Beveling the edge simply "de-berrs" the edge where a high spot might be but don't bevel very much, if any. Do not attempt to sand the shoe surface .... probably a manufacturing tolerance issue.
What would come of sanding the shoe surface?

Its already pretty much closed and its still causing trouble. After sanding it seems to be much better.

Another thing I had trouble with, the brass pipes. I guess you need to torque down the screw on the pipe to get it to set into the shoe so it doesnt jiggle around?
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:20 PM   #8048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
What would come of sanding the shoe surface?
Only because you won't be able to resurface the shoes with any amount of precision using your hands - that's all. Unless you have some type of precision control device it would just make shifting points inconsistent.

Sounds like you have helped it by a little bevel or sanding ...

My guess is that the brass pipes are only so the spring doesnt get hung up on the screw threads -- mine wiggle also.
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:20 PM   #8049
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will the alluminum threaded shocks from an rs4 3 fit the r 40?
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Old 07-19-2005, 09:22 PM   #8050
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will the alluminum threaded shocks from an rs4 3 fit the r 40?
Yup.
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:27 AM   #8051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Did you encounter the problem as well, did this work out for you?

no....But Thad garner told me to do it,so I did.....(hope he nevers tells me to jump off a bridge.. )
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:40 AM   #8052
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not sure if this has been discussed already in this thread but my R40 has been performing great lately except for 1 thing. Whenever I get an accident anywhere in the track that hits the front wheels, the front hubs (dunno if right term) pops out from the ball studs.


Not only once or twice but several times.

Any suggestions on how to fix this prob?
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:40 AM   #8053
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Yeah I actually just went and sanded the outer edge a bit. That seemed to do the trick. It spins nicely.

I also for the heck of it beveled the outer edges. Funny thing though after all that work. I went and screwed the brass pipes down....did anyone else do this or did they leave them rattling.

It says in the instructions to gently tighten down both screws until they touch the spring collar, then loosen them 3 turns (counter clockwise.)

Im kinda lost on that. Are they talking about the bras pipe or the spring itself. Cause if you tighten it till they touch its not far down and then moving back 3 turns. Would leave a gap between the spring and screw.

Im guessing they are talking about the brass pipe as the spring collar? Im confused.
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:45 AM   #8054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jihernandez
not sure if this has been discussed already in this thread but my R40 has been performing great lately except for 1 thing. Whenever I get an accident anywhere in the track that hits the front wheels, the front hubs (dunno if right term) pops out from the ball studs.


Not only once or twice but several times.

Any suggestions on how to fix this prob?
If it has happened once you will find the hubs are cracked and this makes it much more likely to happen again. Replace the hubs and they will be stronger, but it can always happen in an accident.
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:46 AM   #8055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jihernandez
not sure if this has been discussed already in this thread but my R40 has been performing great lately except for 1 thing. Whenever I get an accident anywhere in the track that hits the front wheels, the front hubs (dunno if right term) pops out from the ball studs.


Not only once or twice but several times.

Any suggestions on how to fix this prob?
a common problem on a few cars......put new knuckles on...and don't hit anything...But I will tell you my freind has tried the GPM knucles and loves them....
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