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Old 07-15-2005, 08:26 PM   #7981
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Jaco doesnt make 59mm tires, to accomplish this you will need a tire truer to trim the tires down to this size..... most foam tires are 64mm when you buy them new.
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Old 07-15-2005, 08:54 PM   #7982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
How much runtime we talking here? And does it come good after a resting period?

I'm talking throughout the night.....the harder I run it,the more it changes.....that was with the 2 gear diff filled with 50,000.....I figured the 4 gear would be a mechanical friction,not subject to heat,breakdown,etc...
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:02 PM   #7983
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Btw...the CVEC pipe was absolutley unreal.....a VERY linear powerband....and enough low end to stay with 2 710's with RODY 5 port motors.....(Don't forget,I'm running a std RB 3port non turbo)......the guy with one of the 710's told me a couple of weeks ago,if I had a little more low end grunt,I'd be RIGHT THERE with him in the low speed "s" sections of our track...

I was right there with him tues...all from a pipe change....In fact,in 10 years of running touring,with everything from OS,RB,Dynamite,Associated GT,HPI std metal,and the RD logics turbo II pipes.....this was the only pipe where I actually noticed a very noticable change in power....
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:09 PM   #7984
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ack i hate leaky diffs. I got a solid rear axle up in front and it performs great without the mess. As for my custom air filter elbow... it works fine fits snug and no air leaks... i dont think... Anyway got a few runs in today but my steering was alittle on the bad side. I was thinking of getting a hudy set up board to dial in my car but... i am not sure if it is able to measure the steering rate and endpoints... cause my left is set to 65 and my right is set to 105 and they are identical. If i set the left to 100 its turns wayy to much. so i just wanted to know if i get a set up board of that expense it will do what i want it to do... My car runs a lil bit to the right but no too much. that new bumber i installed saved me big time twice with that bad curb that popped out of nowhere. Its a bit thicker and its wider and longer. Absorbs impacts and looks great too. Anyways i'd like to show pics but my files are waay tooo big ... i was going to show the custom elbow....looks cool its clear u can see the fuel splash around in the carb and the bumper i got...oh well guess i gotta get a photobucket account.
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:15 PM   #7985
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oh yeah and the setup tools i am using is a ruler some pencils a paper and my eyes the cvec pipe sounds like a good pipe to have on hand so i can tune my engine more.
How far doesnt it usually take to hit 2nd gear for u guys at full throttle? I dont really get there in the street cause i dont want it to go more than 2 houses away from me.. especially while i am running in the dark with no body..which reminds me . i need a new one. or i can use that ford gt 200mm i had for my electric just a lil adjusting here and there and it could work...
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:16 PM   #7986
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Default Engine question

I am an rc road newby and have just purchased an r40 along with a friend of mine and my brother. My buddy and I both bought what I thought were Nova Rossie motors but I think they are trinity rossie's. The engine doesn't seem to fit the in the car very well and I wondering if I should have bought something else. So my question is what would be a decent engine for this car for someone new to road racing and at what approximate price and where to buy. We do have experience with RC as we run monster trucks and I also have a Hyper 7 buggy.

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Old 07-15-2005, 09:35 PM   #7987
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just lettin you all know that my r40 is for sale. it has almost every upgrade out there, and a novarossi s3. PM me if your interested.
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Old 07-16-2005, 10:00 AM   #7988
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What is the proper way to set droop? Do I need a setup board or can I do it with normal tools? I set mine to the specs listed in the manual and when I put the car on the ground the droop screws on the top of the front stabilizer bar are within (approximately) a millimeter of touching the front bulkhead. If I push the front suspension down I start to feel resistance when the chassis is about a millimeter or two from the ground. If I continue to push down I can make the chassis hit the ground.
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Old 07-16-2005, 11:17 AM   #7989
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Too properly set the droop on the car accurately, you will need to purchase a set of Droop Gauges..... there are a bunch of them out there.... HUDY, INTEGY and also some are available overseas.
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Old 07-16-2005, 12:49 PM   #7990
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c u bought a rossi... Nova rossi's and rossi's are two different manufacturers. trinity just imports them they dont make them. From what i have heard rossi's arent the best of engines and people had problems with them. did u try sliding the engine through the side where the belt is? the r40 made engine fit a bit tight so sliding it through the right side was the easiest option.

also as for the graphite arms i think hara used them in 2004 because if u take a look at the pic of his car the arms are a tad bit lighter and have a more grey feel to them. Even looks stiffer than stock
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:00 PM   #7991
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didnt the r40 come wiht a gauge? or was it for ride height. I lost it while i was building but fortunatly i still have an old pic.
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Old 07-16-2005, 03:38 PM   #7992
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thats the ride height gauge.....
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:29 PM   #7993
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oh yea i was thinking of those 2 in1 ride height and droop gauges
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Old 07-17-2005, 12:47 AM   #7994
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CVEC makes some nice ride height and droop gauges...

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Old 07-17-2005, 02:43 PM   #7995
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Hi, need a little advice, the 87093 bolt that hold the flywheel onto the sg type crank engines, how tight should it be? should I also use a bit of thread lock. I'm askin this cuz my flywheel position shifted and I couldn't get my engine out of tdc, took the clutch to bits and the blooming nut was loose!!

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