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Old 07-15-2005, 09:57 AM   #7966
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Originally Posted by fastharry
well,I agree with one thing..the 4 gear diff made a big differnce in my car.....I tried it last year with 50,000....made the car have WAY to much steering.....so I took it out and put the 2 gear back in with 30,000.....But I think the silicone heats up,and the cars handling traits change....So the other night I put the 4 gear back in..but with a light coating in 50,000...NOT filled....just enough to give some lubing properties...the car ran perfect...and never changed the whole night....
Yeah thats how I hear your supposed to run them with just a light coating of diff grease.
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:01 PM   #7967
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Ok guys was just checking out my pro4. I noticed the same thing on the pro4 as I do with the r40 (spoke about this quite a few pages ago). When you turn the wheels as far as they go. The wheel thats turned close to the inside of the chassis. Has a ton of wobble. You return it back to center and the wobble is gone. Then to the other side and now the other wheel will wobble when all the way to the inside.

Now on my racer2. Its like my losi. Just solid as a rock all the way through travel, ultra fast & zero slop.

The pro4 has almost zero slop in the linkage...but still has that wobble. Do you think this is some sort of design trait? Or do you think I should keep trying to eliminate allthough at this point Im pretty confident I tried everything and replaced almost everything. The only thing I could do is go large balls or use different components and we all know how fun that can be. Especially in tight clearances like the steering area.

Let me know if yours has the same. If so at least Ill feel better.
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:06 PM   #7968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry
well,I agree with one thing..the 4 gear diff made a big differnce in my car.....I tried it last year with 50,000....made the car have WAY to much steering.....so I took it out and put the 2 gear back in with 30,000.....But I think the silicone heats up,and the cars handling traits change....So the other night I put the 4 gear back in..but with a light coating in 50,000...NOT filled....just enough to give some lubing properties...the car ran perfect...and never changed the whole night....

Harry - you talking about the front diff or the rear diff?? I need to get more steering into my R40...Just picked up the 4 gear conversion kit
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:50 PM   #7969
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Harry - you talking about the front diff or the rear diff?? I need to get more steering into my R40...Just picked up the 4 gear conversion kit

rear.....
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Old 07-15-2005, 04:43 PM   #7970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Ok guys was just checking out my pro4. I noticed the same thing on the pro4 as I do with the r40 (spoke about this quite a few pages ago). When you turn the wheels as far as they go. The wheel thats turned close to the inside of the chassis. Has a ton of wobble. You return it back to center and the wobble is gone. Then to the other side and now the other wheel will wobble when all the way to the inside.

Now on my racer2. Its like my losi. Just solid as a rock all the way through travel, ultra fast & zero slop.

The pro4 has almost zero slop in the linkage...but still has that wobble. Do you think this is some sort of design trait? Or do you think I should keep trying to eliminate allthough at this point Im pretty confident I tried everything and replaced almost everything. The only thing I could do is go large balls or use different components and we all know how fun that can be. Especially in tight clearances like the steering area.

Let me know if yours has the same. If so at least Ill feel better.
This is normal on cars like the R40 that have their steering linkages on a "reverse angle". Some other cars like the V1R or MTX3 do not suffer from this "problem". It concerned me early on, but my car handles so well I no longer consider it a problem. It seems the cornering forces "stablilses" the inside wheel when turning.
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Old 07-15-2005, 04:59 PM   #7971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
How do you like the shock shafts and the graphite arms? Have they held up well? Thats a pretty exstensive setup you got. How much testing have you done with it vs the regular setups black springs and or proceed rear red. Also what kind of surface do you run on?
The shock shafts are MUCH MUCH smoother than the stock items and are a tick lighter since they are hollow. The problem with them is that they have a slight amount of slop on the pistons for some reason (dunno why mayby machining tolerance issue) I had to use a 3mm shim to remove the slop. The shafts nitride coating makes them last far longer.

The graphite arms could be considered a must have in certain cirumstances. The stock rear arms only have 1 swaybar mounting hole. The graphite arms have two and the outer hole makes the car handle a whole heap better on higher grip tracks (more leverage). The front graphite arms are stiffer in circumstances where you are running with large cornering forces. The normal arms flex at the swaybar mounts quite a lot and can on fast and large tracks induce too much arm deflection making your front less stiff than you would like.

I have been running my R40 since December 2003 and my 2004 conversion since around March 2004 or so. I usually have 10-15 tanks of fuel at a track every weekend since that time with the car, every 2nd week is only practice and testing not racing. I run on concrete with rubber tires, a cracked and slippery parking lot a high grip parking lot and the 2006 worlds track. So I have quite a lot of testing on each circuit. I have tested all the option parts for the R40 and a multitude of fuels, motors, clutches, bodies, tire brands etc. All my setups are coming from my own personal preference for a feel in a racecar so it is impossible for me to say whether my setup is "better". From a purely results basis it is not.
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Old 07-15-2005, 05:04 PM   #7972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry
well,I agree with one thing..the 4 gear diff made a big differnce in my car.....I tried it last year with 50,000....made the car have WAY to much steering.....so I took it out and put the 2 gear back in with 30,000.....But I think the silicone heats up,and the cars handling traits change....So the other night I put the 4 gear back in..but with a light coating in 50,000...NOT filled....just enough to give some lubing properties...the car ran perfect...and never changed the whole night....
Interesting. Not 100% sure I have experienced the same with mine. You are saying if you completely fill the diff with oil it becomes inconsistent after some time on the track?
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Old 07-15-2005, 05:06 PM   #7973
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yes...
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:02 PM   #7974
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Originally Posted by fastharry
yes...
How much runtime we talking here? And does it come good after a resting period?
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:22 PM   #7975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
This is normal on cars like the R40 that have their steering linkages on a "reverse angle". Some other cars like the V1R or MTX3 do not suffer from this "problem". It concerned me early on, but my car handles so well I no longer consider it a problem. It seems the cornering forces "stablilses" the inside wheel when turning.
Thank you again AMG. Yeah thats what I figure under speed its probably stabilized fine. I actually try to set the end points of the steering so it doesnt go that far since the wobble isnt as bad when its not fully extended/turned.

Glad I could finally confirm this so I know I pretty much got the steering on the r40 perfect.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:26 PM   #7976
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Reminded myself of one more steering question:

I notice my transmitter has to be set almost 50% off to make the steering center. Do you guys notice you need to set the steering trim off farther than usual on the R40 than other cars? Almost makes me think the distance on my steering linkage is incorrect.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:31 PM   #7977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The shock shafts are MUCH MUCH smoother than the stock items and are a tick lighter since they are hollow. The problem with them is that they have a slight amount of slop on the pistons for some reason (dunno why mayby machining tolerance issue) I had to use a 3mm shim to remove the slop. The shafts nitride coating makes them last far longer.

The graphite arms could be considered a must have in certain cirumstances. The stock rear arms only have 1 swaybar mounting hole. The graphite arms have two and the outer hole makes the car handle a whole heap better on higher grip tracks (more leverage). The front graphite arms are stiffer in circumstances where you are running with large cornering forces. The normal arms flex at the swaybar mounts quite a lot and can on fast and large tracks induce too much arm deflection making your front less stiff than you would like.

I have been running my R40 since December 2003 and my 2004 conversion since around March 2004 or so. I usually have 10-15 tanks of fuel at a track every weekend since that time with the car, every 2nd week is only practice and testing not racing. I run on concrete with rubber tires, a cracked and slippery parking lot a high grip parking lot and the 2006 worlds track. So I have quite a lot of testing on each circuit. I have tested all the option parts for the R40 and a multitude of fuels, motors, clutches, bodies, tire brands etc. All my setups are coming from my own personal preference for a feel in a racecar so it is impossible for me to say whether my setup is "better". From a purely results basis it is not.
Have the graphite arms held up well? Yeah I would have gotten the graphite arms first thing except for when I went to the HPI challenge the rep was saying they were found to be a bit brittle.

So I strayed from them...but I really dont care now I just want to stiffen up those arms.

Does anyone know if hara and thad use these or were they sticking to the plastic.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:35 PM   #7978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Interesting. Not 100% sure I have experienced the same with mine. You are saying if you completely fill the diff with oil it becomes inconsistent after some time on the track?
Arent you not supposed to use diff oil in hpi diffs. I always heard it just leaks out and your supposed to use grease?

Maybe im wrong. I also just saw a magazine talking about this and the tip to use tamiya anti-wear grease on the hpi diffs...
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Old 07-15-2005, 07:54 PM   #7979
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at first my front diff leaked.. after running it a bit then taking it apart and reassembling it the leak went away.. now its full and not a drop comes out.
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Old 07-15-2005, 07:57 PM   #7980
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
3.5mm droop
4.5mm ride height
and I run nitro shoes, using 38 shore at 59mm generally
Are you saying that you allow the suspension to drop 3.5mm below the ride height before it hits the stops, therefore 1mm off the ground? Does the chassis scratch the ground when you race? How high do you have the rebound set to?

Jaco makes 59mm Nitro Shoes? I do not see 59mm shoes on their WWW site.

http://www.jacoracing.net/

My diff was leaking so I coated the gasket with a little silicon RTV. It does not leak anymore.
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