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Old 07-14-2005, 05:32 AM   #7951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Roger that. And I have video evidence of less wheelflex in ultra highspeed stuff which is why I use em myself.
Well im glad you guys at least know the benefits of them, you got me interested. But im thinking my track isnt really fast enough so im going to try the carbon ones for now. Plus dont have money to get the aluminum ones, my 2004 kit doesnt come with them as the previous owner took them.

But we will see.
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Old 07-14-2005, 05:40 AM   #7952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnitro
what can I use to get my foams sticky again? paragon? alcohol? the owner of a local track suggested spraying wd40 on the foam and letting it sit for about an hour. the foams will feel slippery at first, but after a couple of laps, they get pretty sticky.
Trinity makes some foam tire traction. You can also take a trip to any grocery store and pick up some wintergreen alcohol. Pretty easy to spot as itll be the only green looking solution in an alcohol bottle.

The alcohol will clean the tire and the wintergreen will help them stick. Use this a couple of minutes before a race.

The trinity is much better of course and im sure theres a ton others. But it also costs 8 dollars vs the 1.50 or so for the large amount of wintergreen/alcohol. It gets you by....but if you want to be serious you might want to get the better stuff.

Remember though this will increase tire wear just like it were a stickier tire.
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:40 AM   #7953
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For rear traction issues, try going to a harder tire in front, say 40's in front, 37's in rear. Also try to disconnect the rear sway bar. Try running the car level, say 5mm front and rear, and you can also increase the rear toe in.

If it is higher speed corners that you have issues, move the rear spoiler to the rear most position. These are some quick tips...

You can also work on the droop settings, stopping the car from transferring weight to the front.
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:45 AM   #7954
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Bent elbow for the air filter? Use the Traxxas 2.5 air filter. It works good, and looks good too. CVEC has a nice aluminum air filter case, that uses the Traxxas air filter element and mounting.


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Old 07-14-2005, 06:49 AM   #7955
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Not the best picture, but if you look in the rear window, you can see the air filter. I have it facing to the rear of the car.


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Old 07-14-2005, 01:24 PM   #7956
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To increase rear traction for mid to exit cornering while on power stiffen the front sway bar or use harder front tires. Or you can soften or remove the rear sway bar or use softer rear tires. Increasing the rear toe in will give you more rear traction exiting the turn while on power.
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:25 PM   #7957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphere666
right man! i prefer the steering after mod. it gives u sharper and more sensitive turns. any ideas to wat i can do to my rear? i need to try out any available options cause to prepare for this sundays race and also the 1st round of the hpi challenge. can u describe or possibly show me wat u did to yr rear? thanks bro...
sorry forgot to quote the first post

To increase rear traction for mid to exit cornering while on power stiffen the front sway bar or use harder front tires. Or you can soften or remove the rear sway bar or use softer rear tires. Increasing the rear toe in will give you more rear traction exiting the turn while on power.
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Old 07-14-2005, 02:43 PM   #7958
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I have a few question's. want to true up some tire's for racing.

1. how far should I cut the tire's down for racing? parking lot track and a little tight.

2.what setup station is best for the R40?

3.a good ride height to start with the track just a little bumby down the back straight.
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:03 PM   #7959
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Leave them box stock. Parking lots eat tires because they will probally put down traction compound.

Any setup station will probally do, and I would think either stock or 5.5on all sides would be a good starting setting.
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:41 AM   #7960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Well im glad you guys at least know the benefits of them, you got me interested. But im thinking my track isnt really fast enough so im going to try the carbon ones for now. Plus dont have money to get the aluminum ones, my 2004 kit doesnt come with them as the previous owner took them.

But we will see.
Yeah man I think the performance difference is so marginal that I could not tell. But quite a few years ago I noticed how much deflection my old V1R was getting in high speed stuff after videotaping a few runs. Changed rims and found some interesting results. Changes to alloy hexes (the in thing at the time) and also found the wheel ran truer again.
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:48 AM   #7961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphere666
right man! i prefer the steering after mod. it gives u sharper and more sensitive turns. any ideas to wat i can do to my rear? i need to try out any available options cause to prepare for this sundays race and also the 1st round of the hpi challenge. can u describe or possibly show me wat u did to yr rear? thanks bro...
Wow so hard question since there are SO many ways to make more rear grip. Always start with tires, softer rear tires. Then you could try springs.

My setup for my rear (which may be completely useless to you) is right now:

Running the graphite arms
Rear 2 degree Toe
3.5 left and 3 right rear camber
lower inner hole for link
2mm under rear upright
3mm front and 2mm rear for wheelbase
30,000 wt 4 gear rear diff
black swaybar with 1mm extra bar showing mounted to the OUTER holes (this is important)
innermost hole on shocktower
alloy body shocks with Kyosho Light blue Front springs
HPI 30 shore o-rings with greenslime
HPI 50 wt shock oil
HPI 50 shore Bladders
Derlin machined pistons with 3 x 0.9mm holes (I bored them .1mm from 0.8)
Hot Bodies hollow nitrided shock shafts which are also 1mm shorter.
3.5mm droop
4.5mm ride height
and I run nitro shoes, using 38 shore at 59mm generally
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:33 AM   #7962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
sorry forgot to quote the first post

To increase rear traction for mid to exit cornering while on power stiffen the front sway bar or use harder front tires. Or you can soften or remove the rear sway bar or use softer rear tires. Increasing the rear toe in will give you more rear traction exiting the turn while on power.
thanks bro...will give a shot at it once i'm down the track tomorrow! will let know the outcome once i've tried!
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:40 AM   #7963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Wow so hard question since there are SO many ways to make more rear grip. Always start with tires, softer rear tires. Then you could try springs.

My setup for my rear (which may be completely useless to you) is right now:

Running the graphite arms
Rear 2 degree Toe
3.5 left and 3 right rear camber
lower inner hole for link
2mm under rear upright
3mm front and 2mm rear for wheelbase
30,000 wt 4 gear rear diff
black swaybar with 1mm extra bar showing mounted to the OUTER holes (this is important)
innermost hole on shocktower
alloy body shocks with Kyosho Light blue Front springs
HPI 30 shore o-rings with greenslime
HPI 50 wt shock oil
HPI 50 shore Bladders
Derlin machined pistons with 3 x 0.9mm holes (I bored them .1mm from 0.8)
Hot Bodies hollow nitrided shock shafts which are also 1mm shorter.
3.5mm droop
4.5mm ride height
and I run nitro shoes, using 38 shore at 59mm generally
How do you like the shock shafts and the graphite arms? Have they held up well? Thats a pretty exstensive setup you got. How much testing have you done with it vs the regular setups black springs and or proceed rear red. Also what kind of surface do you run on?
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:48 AM   #7964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Wow so hard question since there are SO many ways to make more rear grip. Always start with tires, softer rear tires. Then you could try springs.

My setup for my rear (which may be completely useless to you) is right now:

Running the graphite arms
Rear 2 degree Toe
3.5 left and 3 right rear camber
lower inner hole for link
2mm under rear upright
3mm front and 2mm rear for wheelbase
30,000 wt 4 gear rear diff
black swaybar with 1mm extra bar showing mounted to the OUTER holes (this is important)
innermost hole on shocktower
alloy body shocks with Kyosho Light blue Front springs
HPI 30 shore o-rings with greenslime
HPI 50 wt shock oil
HPI 50 shore Bladders
Derlin machined pistons with 3 x 0.9mm holes (I bored them .1mm from 0.8)
Hot Bodies hollow nitrided shock shafts which are also 1mm shorter.
3.5mm droop
4.5mm ride height
and I run nitro shoes, using 38 shore at 59mm generally

thanks bro...i've gone through and will try out as well and see how's the outcome! rapid boy gave me some suggestions as well from earlier post.there are a few things which i don't really understand like the rear sway bar, kyosho light blue front springs and hpi 30 shore o-rings and is the suggested droop and ride height for all round car?
thanks foe helping out!
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:51 AM   #7965
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well,I agree with one thing..the 4 gear diff made a big differnce in my car.....I tried it last year with 50,000....made the car have WAY to much steering.....so I took it out and put the 2 gear back in with 30,000.....But I think the silicone heats up,and the cars handling traits change....So the other night I put the 4 gear back in..but with a light coating in 50,000...NOT filled....just enough to give some lubing properties...the car ran perfect...and never changed the whole night....
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