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Old 07-13-2005, 03:05 PM   #7936
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Never had a problem with mine, but I could see how that would be easier. I do have to watch how much im torquing down. But every single car , truck or buggy I own you have to watch that.
That's why I sway mine out...I had to worry about this on my buggy, by even AE addressed it on the B4 - there's washers behind the pins to help fight the binding issue
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:32 PM   #7937
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u know i had a nikko car waaay back. It was electric 2wd. One of those try to imitate a real electric car not a toy car by having body posts and similar features. i got new wheels for it once the where stiffer than stock new wheel nuts and i torqued it down toooo much and the hex was deformed and it banged up the outer bearing too. i still run it from time to time even if it is set up like crap. I also torqued it too much on my r40 just broke the axle...maybe i should look at those on my next order...

OH and i have a question of my own. I got a RB v12 engine and I got a motorsaver filter with an elbow. Its ment for 1/8th scale so i thought it should fit because the RB has a 1/8 sized carb.. however it didnt. And they can't mount without an elbow. So if there is an elbow connector that is compatible besides the straight bases plz help out.
in the mean time i have some of the same diameter vinyal tubing and a exhast gasket that has a tight snug fit on the filter and the carb i am hesitant to test it soo...yea... dont want to push my luck too far
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Old 07-13-2005, 06:04 PM   #7938
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Pull the elbow off and pop the filter directly onto the carb. It should fit.
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Old 07-13-2005, 06:16 PM   #7939
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like i said it needs and elbow because the filter has the same diameter as the carb. And for some reason the elbow that came with it has a smaller end for the carb and a larger end for the filter...the larger end fits both the carb and the filter however the smaller end can fit neither. Looks like it wasnt for 14-16mm carbs like it stated or at least thats what i think it stated. Maybe its ment for 1/8 carbs that are small?
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Old 07-13-2005, 06:24 PM   #7940
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Hi everyone

this is my first post on this site. HPI challenge this month is at my local lhs. I just started running nitro onroad a month ago what a blast. I have a R40 with a Collari.12 and I will be making attempt to race I say that because of my lack of driving skills but what a rush driving these cars.





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Old 07-13-2005, 07:56 PM   #7941
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welcome to the site. And yet another r40er to add to this thread for imput and thoughts. Well if u need help or find things interestign regarding the r40 feel free to post! hope u enjoy the nitro class at the hpi challenge
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Old 07-13-2005, 08:22 PM   #7942
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Look here for a bit more info

http://www.motorsaverfilters.com/
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Old 07-13-2005, 09:00 PM   #7943
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nah checked it out the info there is not what i am looking for. I am more interested in a elbow that could fit both the filter and the carb. maybe the vinyl tubing chould do just fine. i ma gonna bite my lip fo this one. i used and extra exhast silicon seal to seal the carb neck where the tubing goes one to so its a snug fit. and the filter has a nice snug fit because it actually streatches out the tubing for a real tight fit..acouple a zip ties and i am good to go. But in the mean time id like to fine a compatible elbow...
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Old 07-13-2005, 09:01 PM   #7944
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Hey guys...I've had several PM's & e-mails asking for an R40 bumper and thought I will let everyone know at the same time that the R40 bumper is now available http://www.pdubracing.com/products.htm
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Old 07-13-2005, 10:07 PM   #7945
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Old 07-13-2005, 10:26 PM   #7946
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what can I use to get my foams sticky again? paragon? alcohol? the owner of a local track suggested spraying wd40 on the foam and letting it sit for about an hour. the foams will feel slippery at first, but after a couple of laps, they get pretty sticky.
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:18 AM   #7947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar
The simple fact that the clamping aluminum hubs reduce the chance of crushing an outer wheel bearing is enough of a reason for me to run...

Actually, on every touring car I own, that is the first "upgrade" I make - the joy of knowing I can crank down on that wheel nut without crushing or binding the rear drive make me a happy boy
Roger that. And I have video evidence of less wheelflex in ultra highspeed stuff which is why I use em myself.
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:21 AM   #7948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphere666
hi amg...i've done and tested out after redoing the front shocks.
it handles really great at the front but my rear kept on fish tail and eventually spin out when i start to power out of the corner. i did not do anything yet to the rear shocks it's still on stock settings. springs front and rear stock as well.
and suggestions or ideas wat i should do?

thanks and yr advise would be greatly appreciated.
Wow thats exactly the same effect that I got. The car will get looser on power, but I needed more steering so I got a nice "fast" loose condition. If yours is too lose then you should go back you your original front setting.

But the steering you have is wild right?
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Old 07-14-2005, 02:50 AM   #7949
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Wow thats exactly the same effect that I got. The car will get looser on power, but I needed more steering so I got a nice "fast" loose condition. If yours is too lose then you should go back you your original front setting.

But the steering you have is wild right?

right man! i prefer the steering after mod. it gives u sharper and more sensitive turns. any ideas to wat i can do to my rear? i need to try out any available options cause to prepare for this sundays race and also the 1st round of the hpi challenge. can u describe or possibly show me wat u did to yr rear? thanks bro...
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Old 07-14-2005, 05:31 AM   #7950
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Do you have the red proceed spring in the rear? You can also loosen the rear shocks a little. CounterClockwise. Just like one or two twists with your thumbs. Which might be like 2/3 an actual turn.
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