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Old 07-13-2005, 02:07 AM   #7921
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah I really dont know what the benefit of the aluminum is. I never figured that out or really looked into it. Im guessing they might reduce slop or just dont come off. But ive never had problems with mine ever.

They are heavier though and oddly enough there is a graphite part so im going to go with the graphite. It is much lighter.

I would have used my racer2 hubs but they were just slightly smaller.
You are talking 2 grams difference between the carbon ones and the alloy ones. The alloy ones clamp to the axle so the wheel does not pull them off and you wont lose the cross pin. Also the alloy ones are precision machined so they run perfect, unlike the plastic ones which develop play after enough crashes. Lastly you can over tighten the plastic ones and crush them against the outer bearings. I have done that on my original R40.
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Old 07-13-2005, 02:12 AM   #7922
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Here is what I got for the engine mount.
-- So im guessing they say this smooths out vibration perhaps from high rpms? I dont understand that one.
What you will find is that when you are running on large tracks with a high horsepower engine the motors twist in the mounts. The mechanical forces generated from the mesh between the pinions and spurs want to twist the motor towards the front of the chassis. These mounts "hug" the motor and are also one piece so that the individual mounts cannot twist seperately. The twist of the case actually robs a little bit of RPM and torque out of the motors. It is for a similar reason that novarossi went to a 11.5mm crank from an 11mm crank.

The physics and maths is there to support this hopup, but I cannot personally feel a huge difference with mine. It looks cool tho so it will stay
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:05 AM   #7923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
You are talking 2 grams difference between the carbon ones and the alloy ones. The alloy ones clamp to the axle so the wheel does not pull them off and you wont lose the cross pin. Also the alloy ones are precision machined so they run perfect, unlike the plastic ones which develop play after enough crashes. Lastly you can over tighten the plastic ones and crush them against the outer bearings. I have done that on my original R40.
Yeah X 4 and its directly connected to the wheels. Its well worth doing this if your looking for performance. I can talk about unsprung weight of the wheels all day. This is essentially like getting lightweight wheels for a real car.

The unsprung weight of the wheel has a lot to do with how fast a car can accelerate. If you like lightweight shafts and 2speeds. This is almost the same effect but great in a sense. It should also increase handling efficiency.

I have lightweight rims for my real car. Its like night and day. Car becomes more responsive , doesnt get bothered by bumps as much , acceleration and braking is improved.

Ill just replace them if needed. I never had to with my racer2. But well see.
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:08 AM   #7924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
What you will find is that when you are running on large tracks with a high horsepower engine the motors twist in the mounts. The mechanical forces generated from the mesh between the pinions and spurs want to twist the motor towards the front of the chassis. These mounts "hug" the motor and are also one piece so that the individual mounts cannot twist seperately. The twist of the case actually robs a little bit of RPM and torque out of the motors. It is for a similar reason that novarossi went to a 11.5mm crank from an 11mm crank.

The physics and maths is there to support this hopup, but I cannot personally feel a huge difference with mine. It looks cool tho so it will stay
Very informative. Thank you.
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:09 AM   #7925
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It comes with the 2 gear rear diff. Well all my 2004 editions have anyways.
I can always hope. LOL.
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:33 AM   #7926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah X 4 and its directly connected to the wheels. Its well worth doing this if your looking for performance. I can talk about unsprung weight of the wheels all day. This is essentially like getting lightweight wheels for a real car.

The unsprung weight of the wheel has a lot to do with how fast a car can accelerate. If you like lightweight shafts and 2speeds. This is almost the same effect but great in a sense. It should also increase handling efficiency.

I have lightweight rims for my real car. Its like night and day. Car becomes more responsive , doesnt get bothered by bumps as much , acceleration and braking is improved.

Ill just replace them if needed. I never had to with my racer2. But well see.
I understand the benefits of unsprung mass reduction quite well. If you think its worth it go right ahead. My view is Hara won 2 ROAR titles and Adrien Bertain won the IFMAR 2004 world champ with alloy clamping hubs, so I am happy to use them myself for the reduction in high speed wheel wobble.
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Old 07-13-2005, 05:41 AM   #7927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I understand the benefits of unsprung mass reduction quite well. If you think its worth it go right ahead. My view is Hara won 2 ROAR titles and Adrien Bertain won the IFMAR 2004 world champ with alloy clamping hubs, so I am happy to use them myself for the reduction in high speed wheel wobble.
Great so we understand its worthwhile.

Yeah I know he used it, and im sure he could throw on a few other heavier mods to help him last 1 hour mains. I still want to shed some weight and thats just another place I saw would be more than worthwhile. But I didnt know about reduction of wheel wobble. Ill have to look into that.
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Old 07-13-2005, 08:03 AM   #7928
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wow so i finally found what the r40's one piece mount looks like. I thought one was never made. Now i just want to get one eventually... for myself. Where did u order the one piece again. Also how much was the total cost with shipping?
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Old 07-13-2005, 08:07 AM   #7929
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The simple fact that the clamping aluminum hubs reduce the chance of crushing an outer wheel bearing is enough of a reason for me to run...

Actually, on every touring car I own, that is the first "upgrade" I make - the joy of knowing I can crank down on that wheel nut without crushing or binding the rear drive make me a happy boy
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Old 07-13-2005, 08:29 AM   #7930
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Front tower mod and battery installation. Sorry about poor quality.
hi amg...i've done and tested out after redoing the front shocks.
it handles really great at the front but my rear kept on fish tail and eventually spin out when i start to power out of the corner. i did not do anything yet to the rear shocks it's still on stock settings. springs front and rear stock as well.
and suggestions or ideas wat i should do?

thanks and yr advise would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by sphere666; 07-13-2005 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 07-13-2005, 09:01 AM   #7931
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u could try softning the rear shocks by laying them down more. Or u could just get softer rear shocks. softer rear tires could help too. Cause when u adjusted ur front shocks u made them softer maybe even softer than ur rear ones. The sway bar may have an effect experiment with the settings till u get a confortable one
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Old 07-13-2005, 09:38 AM   #7932
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thanks for the advise bro...will try to make some adjustments and run it again!
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Old 07-13-2005, 09:48 AM   #7933
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Also try removing the rear sway bar. Just disconnect it and run it to see if it solves your problem.
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Old 07-13-2005, 09:58 AM   #7934
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Last edited by tranced; 08-16-2005 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 07-13-2005, 01:15 PM   #7935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar
The simple fact that the clamping aluminum hubs reduce the chance of crushing an outer wheel bearing is enough of a reason for me to run...

Actually, on every touring car I own, that is the first "upgrade" I make - the joy of knowing I can crank down on that wheel nut without crushing or binding the rear drive make me a happy boy
Never had a problem with mine, but I could see how that would be easier. I do have to watch how much im torquing down. But every single car , truck or buggy I own you have to watch that.
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