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Old 07-07-2005, 07:54 PM   #7831
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AI - Give us an update of any performance improvements you find.

Brake disc - Careful as you are taking away "surface area" which is critical for braking!!! There is a trade-off to consider here.

Check out the Kyosho V1RRR spur gears - pretty nice job of makig lightweight spurs. This could be done to the R40 as long as you maintain balance which might be hard to do for the do-it-yourselfer.

E*Bay Spy -- What?
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:22 PM   #7832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
AI - Give us an update of any performance improvements you find.

Brake disc - Careful as you are taking away "surface area" which is critical for braking!!! There is a trade-off to consider here.

Check out the Kyosho V1RRR spur gears - pretty nice job of makig lightweight spurs. This could be done to the R40 as long as you maintain balance which might be hard to do for the do-it-yourselfer.

E*Bay Spy -- What?
Actually you just gave me the best idea. Zero brake disc. I have a one way and never use it anyway. I think Ill have to try this. Hmm but I hope there isnt some emergency. That would suck. Either way I can trim it down a lot there is plenty of brake force to make the car spin out with one way already.

Your bid was late did you just wait till the last second to bid? Maybe you were the other bidder.
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:52 PM   #7833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Actually you just gave me the best idea. Zero brake disc. I have a one way and never use it anyway. I think Ill have to try this. Hmm but I hope there isnt some emergency. That would suck. Either way I can trim it down a lot there is plenty of brake force to make the car spin out with one way already.

Your bid was late did you just wait till the last second to bid? Maybe you were the other bidder.

Your pitman is going to hate you when he has to grab your car going through pit lane....
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:14 AM   #7834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jea3
Your using that, instead of the flat pack?


Or did I miss something on a new R40?

Heck, I'm still using the smaller gas tank, that came on the first R40's shipped.

Yep, you remove the entire battery box and glue it to the chassis door.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:15 AM   #7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jea3
With my wife being a nurse helps measure volumes. This tank holds 71cc of fuel. This car runs out of fuel with 20 - 35 seconds to go. I hope that the extra 4cc's makes run time.


My belts seem like a great fit to me.

Hump pack will not fit in my R40. I'm using a promatch 1100mah flat pack in the car.

700mah - 1300mah, don't really matter if your racer. If your series enough, you should peak those batteries each time you get ready to race. At least I do..
The hump pack fits fine. It comes with instructions on how to mount it. It needs to be the AAA 2/3rd tho, NOT the AA 2/3rd.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:17 AM   #7836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah thats the lightweight hpi pack I want to try that as well. Isnt it the same thing as 5 AAA cells. Did anyone try that yet I forgot.

Will these fit in our cars?
Yes as I stated I have one in my car now for around 1 year. It is ULTRA light at only 42 grams. You need to cut the battery box up to make it fit and glue it to the chassis door.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:18 AM   #7837
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
The 3.1 or whatever its called. I think im going to pick a body up for my nitro today. I might go with that.
I have been using the 3.1 for a few weeks now. It is flat out the best body I have ever used, even kicks the Mazda 6s ass.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:19 AM   #7838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
AMG Racer - Sorry but I can't find the battery pack on HPI or Tower -- Can you help me locate a source?


One on of my R40s I built a 5-cell AAA NiMH pack and it does fit inside the battery compartment (barely). If you don't use heatshrink film they squeeze in and the battery tray has a very slight "bow" to it. Since then, I remove the battery cover. These are 600mA cells and I have used them all day without recharging them. So I can speak from experience that a 600mA pack will easliy get you through a day of racing without recharging. Race day typically is 2 practice sessions of 5 minutes, 3 qualifiers, and a 30 minute main. So lets say at least about 1 hour of run-time or more.
My 800 gets me through 4 x 5minutes and 1 x 20 minutes on 1 charge so I totally agree. I believe the HPI hump pack may be a Japan only item. Try RC Champ or one of the HK shops. I got mine from Harmony models.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:20 AM   #7839
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Originally Posted by k_bojar
But then how do you mount the receiver pack?? I agree removing the battery box will make things easier....but how do you mount it??
Glue or tape.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:22 AM   #7840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar
ok...was thinking about doing that anyways

how did you secure the battery lid?? the 2 screws that hold connect it screw into the upper batter box...did you use just 2 lock nuts? doing that would not allow a "quick change" for a receiver pack
The Japanese trend over the last 6 months is to move AWAY from the chassis designs that have a hole in them for battery access. The new 2005 HPI has this and Kyosho has released one for the V1RRR. It is to make the chassis plate more stiff.
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:25 AM   #7841
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At the last race meet I laid my front shocks right down so they now run off the mounting screws for the front shock tower. I also installed the Kawahara Lola body front mount, mostly for neatness. On my high grip fast track the car is amazing with the more progressive front. I had to go up a bit on the front spring rate to compensate, but it is incredible.
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:13 AM   #7842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The Japanese trend over the last 6 months is to move AWAY from the chassis designs that have a hole in them for battery access. The new 2005 HPI has this and Kyosho has released one for the V1RRR. It is to make the chassis plate more stiff.
That makes sense...My Mugen doesn't have that battery access door in the bottom of the chassis....I just thought it was cool looking and made sense to have a "quick change" set-up for receiver packs - that way you could sway out a pack in between bump-ups if necessary

I'm just going to figure a way to make it shut permanently

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Old 07-08-2005, 08:32 AM   #7843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Pull out the clutch shoe and look for a "high-spot" or a worn spot in the shoe. Just resurface the shoe with sandpaper the best you can. Does the engine "free-rev" at some point after 2nd gear is engaged?
The engine free revs in first gear, but mostly it does it in 2nd gear, after a while its fine, but it sucks... I ordered a new clutch shoe because I think the clutch bell is having trouble to engage. I also was thinking of replacing the LW 2 speed clutch shoes, but will try the engine clutch first. Does towers or rcmart carry a better clutch shoe for the R-40???
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Old 07-08-2005, 10:41 AM   #7844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLANDERMAN
The engine free revs in first gear, but mostly it does it in 2nd gear, after a while its fine, but it sucks... I ordered a new clutch shoe because I think the clutch bell is having trouble to engage. I also was thinking of replacing the LW 2 speed clutch shoes, but will try the engine clutch first. Does towers or rcmart carry a better clutch shoe for the R-40???
Get the Mugen Grey clutch show and the gold or sliver Mugen spring. Your car will absolutely launch... silver is stiffer than gold. Also - try the RED delta clutch for even more bite.
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Old 07-08-2005, 10:43 AM   #7845
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Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Get the Mugen Grey clutch show and the gold or sliver Mugen spring. Your car will absolutely launch...
Thanks, where can I get them???
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