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Old 11-07-2003, 10:01 AM   #766
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Default Re: Re: Re: weight reduction program

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Originally posted by KMac
You must be kidding. I could have that shaft bored out on a lathe before you could even get the EDM machine set-up, and the lathe boring will be every bit as clean as you would ever need.
KMac, I never doubted anybody could pull a shaft out bored from a lathe. I should have mentioned that I was just referring to ideal situations when mass production is called for. EDM is expensive to set up but efficient for large quantities.
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:37 PM   #767
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Default Re: weight reduction program

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Originally posted by Pembalap
I save some weight by milling out the chassis. I save about 19 grams. Combined with both the hollow shafts, I saved total weight of 41 grams.

By the way, it's quite easy to make your own hollow shaft. Just go to a local machine shop and have them drill 3.5mm hole thru the shaft.

A.W
Thats some nice milling on that chassis. Reminds me of my ReflexNT chassis.
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Old 11-07-2003, 07:09 PM   #768
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Default Re: Re: weight reduction program

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Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, easy but I believe you need a lathe for that. The best would be to have an EDM equipment to drill it fast and clean !
I did my own drilling in my machine shop, and it took me less than 15 minutes to drill both shaft. And I think 15 minutes is well worthit compare to the weight that I saved.

Actually, the material of the shaft is not that hard, and you can use a regular HSS drill. However, use a good Center Drill to initiate the hole, otherwise the hole won't be straight....you don't want that...

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Old 11-08-2003, 01:20 AM   #769
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Talking

I tried the gear change yesturday.... Thursday at the local track and the difference was amazing!!! I would recommend to anyone that is looking for more speed to use the 17/49 1st gear and the 21/43 for the 2nd.... When the tranny shifted... 2nd gear hit and the car just took OFF!!! If you're running a weak motor, it might bog down because of the space in the gearing. But if you're running a proper motor..ie 1.3 plus hp's you'll be glade you did the switch. You might even want to give the 16T first gear a try, you'll have an even greater takeoff, but you'll have to adjust your shift point on the tranny. Thought I would pass along my findings... Anyone else with some speed tips/gearing tips that works.... Please post.

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Old 11-10-2003, 10:51 AM   #770
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I just saw this pic of the R40 graphite shock towers on the Orion news link. Somethings got me confused though.

First, are those two little pieces of graphite going to be the front shock tower

-and-

What are those mounting points on the very ends of the rear tower for? They appear to be holes for body mounts, but the R40 already has a body mount
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Old 11-10-2003, 11:19 AM   #771
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That pic is only the rear tower. Those two little pieces will attach to the rear arms and give you alternate lower shock mounting positions as well.
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Old 11-10-2003, 11:23 AM   #772
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What are those mounting points on the very ends of the rear tower for? They appear to be holes for body mounts, but the R40 already has a body mount

They are body post mounts, the extra body posts come on one of the parts trees. The wider mounts give you a little more stability for the rear of the body, so the wing won't wobble around as much for example.
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Old 11-10-2003, 11:46 AM   #773
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Got it....thanks for the quick answers guys
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Old 11-10-2003, 12:03 PM   #774
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I just got off the phone with Dave at Delta Mfg. I ordered the new Delta red clutch shoe for the R-40. He just started making them. This is the same shoe that was such a hit at the 1/8th Worlds. I can't wait to try it.
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Old 11-11-2003, 01:20 PM   #775
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I see tower has the graphite shock towers as "order pending" cool, that means I can buy them soon.
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Old 11-11-2003, 03:25 PM   #776
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brent
I just got off the phone with Dave at Delta Mfg. I ordered the new Delta red clutch shoe for the R-40. He just started making them. This is the same shoe that was such a hit at the 1/8th Worlds. I can't wait to try it.
Brent, what's the scoop on these clutch shoes
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:19 PM   #777
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I guess I should have said clutch disc. I still think in terms of shoes and drums instead of discs and flyweights.

I've run the red shoe, crap...disc in 1/8th scale and it's very consistent and has a long life. But the best part is that it seems to be able to tolerate higher temperatures. Which means the clutch can be set closer to the edge. I haven't tried it in a 12 Tourer but I'm looking forward to it. I think it will work even better than it does in 1/8th scale.
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:42 PM   #778
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Quote:
Originally posted by C0NTENDER
I see tower has the graphite shock towers as "order pending" cool, that means I can buy them soon.
Thats odd that they already have that listed. They don't have very many hop ups listed for the car. They are well stocked on parts for it though.
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Old 11-12-2003, 12:52 AM   #779
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brent
I guess I should have said clutch disc. I still think in terms of shoes and drums instead of discs and flyweights.

I've run the red shoe, crap...disc in 1/8th scale and it's very consistent and has a long life. But the best part is that it seems to be able to tolerate higher temperatures. Which means the clutch can be set closer to the edge. I haven't tried it in a 12 Tourer but I'm looking forward to it. I think it will work even better than it does in 1/8th scale.
Brent, do you know what kind of material do they use for the red clutch disc? Is it softer or harder?

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Old 11-12-2003, 01:10 AM   #780
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Default Bad ball-cup.

Anybody notice that the R40 really have a bad ball-cup? The ball-cup, on my rear upper link already shows sign of wear after running the car for about 10 tanks. I believe the material is too soft for the ball cup.

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