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Old 06-30-2005, 02:17 PM   #7681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
Artificial-I, which springs are u using for ur rear shocks. ur shocks also look stock are they? if they are the proceed's i found out that the rear ones were to long for the stock. unless u were supposed to get the front proceed springs. Cause i just got a pair and it seems a bit of a hassle to fit them on and they are about the length of the shock itself so its got no space imbetween the adjuster nut on the shock

-edit oh yeah and i also forgot. what rod ends/ball links or whatever u call them i could use for the rear camber. i know fast harry said the pro line traxxas ones but the discontinued here. unless i want to order from australlia for a 5$ part. i was planning on using these turnbuckles for the job unless i would need bigger ones for the rod ends u will recommend
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPC72&P=7

Mine fit fine.
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:08 PM   #7682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesky
Cheers for the reply AMGRacer, I might have a go at knockin up a 6v regulator circuit using a single lm317 reg chip. As you say charging them seems another matter though. what cells do you use just out of interest?
Man I cant keep up with this thread lol I dont seem to be getting any email notifications until I log onto the site and then I get one after the other. I wonder whats up with that

cheers
Hesky - It will be easier to run 2 diodes in series which will drop the voltage by 1.4 Volts. The LM317 Reg will always draw a few milliamps of current plus you might have to use filtering capacitors, thermal issues, etc - just seems like a headache to me.

Since most servos are rated at 6V I would suspect that they can handle more than 7V safely. Looking at a Futaba 122 AM Rx manual it states 4.8 - 8.4 V so you will be OK.
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:15 PM   #7683
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I have a ? Has anyone ever used a car data recorder like the one from eagle tree?
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:32 PM   #7684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Hesky - It will be easier to run 2 diodes in series which will drop the voltage by 1.4 Volts. The LM317 Reg will always draw a few milliamps of current plus you might have to use filtering capacitors, thermal issues, etc - just seems like a headache to me.

Since most servos are rated at 6V I would suspect that they can handle more than 7V safely. Looking at a Futaba 122 AM Rx manual it states 4.8 - 8.4 V so you will be OK.
lol, I was just thinkin about it a little more b4 i read your post and was thinkin maybe diodes would work better as the application is pretty low current so no need for 5amp regs. diodes seem a much better (lighter easier) idea. cheers John
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:05 PM   #7685
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There are companys that make pre assembled LiPo receiver packs with protection circutry built in. They also sell voltage regulators. As for chargers, check out Astroflight. All the LiPo stuff has been used for airplanes for a while because of the weight savings.
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Old 06-30-2005, 05:09 PM   #7686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbox
Artificial-I, which springs are u using for ur rear shocks. ur shocks also look stock are they? if they are the proceed's i found out that the rear ones were to long for the stock. unless u were supposed to get the front proceed springs. Cause i just got a pair and it seems a bit of a hassle to fit them on and they are about the length of the shock itself so its got no space imbetween the adjuster nut on the shock

-edit oh yeah and i also forgot. what rod ends/ball links or whatever u call them i could use for the rear camber. i know fast harry said the pro line traxxas ones but the discontinued here. unless i want to order from australlia for a 5$ part. i was planning on using these turnbuckles for the job unless i would need bigger ones for the rod ends u will recommend
The Red springs listed are only 2mm longer then the stock black. I didn't realize that the proceed rears were the same as the 200mm ones. I've got a set on my racer2 sitting on my workbench.

As for the length, you can get different spring retainers. You know, the peice that holds the bottom of the spring. Some company's retainers sit much lower then HPI's giving you more room to adjust.
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Old 06-30-2005, 09:24 PM   #7687
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Default R40 Modification Information

Guys - Here are a few mods that I feel are worthwhile on the R40.

The following modifications are: Engine removal & installation , Bumper modification, and clutch access modification.

http://home.flash.net/~jdishong/JAGHome.htm
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Old 06-30-2005, 10:46 PM   #7688
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I'm sure it would depend on the pinions and spurs used but I have so far only ever needed to remove the side brace to remove or install the engine.
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Old 06-30-2005, 11:49 PM   #7689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
I'm sure it would depend on the pinions and spurs used but I have so far only ever needed to remove the side brace to remove or install the engine.
Understood..... but you are still removing 4 screws (sidebrace) which is the same number of screws I am removing using my previous method. With the mod, ZERO screws are removed ( of course besides the engine screws ). Some people may not find this worthwhile but for me... I'm kinda "nerdish" about these things.

Pinions are not a factor here. The clutch bell diameter is the main problem.
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:01 AM   #7690
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3 screws actually and its pretty quick for me. Also the modification of the rear brace which is already flimsy enough to grant hpi the reason to create an aluminum upgrade.

I would just leave it alone. The only annoying thing about the process is the removal of the brake lever.

But after that I pop off the 2speed and out comes the motor...you can also loosen the left side of the handle for the car and then this allows you to flex the upper deck a bit which allows plently of play for wiggling motors in and out.
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:31 AM   #7691
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[QUOTE=Artificial-I]3 screws actually and its pretty quick for me. Also the modification of the rear brace which is already flimsy enough to grant hpi the reason to create an aluminum upgrade.

.. actually the reason is called " revenue generation". No, the rear brace is not flimsy enough to be a problem. Try to flex your chassis and see the rear brace will not flex. It will flex right at the connection where the brace mounts to the upper chassis deck. The mounting of the rear brace is where the problem might be (if a stress analysis was performed). Now if you are not able to tighten the brace properly b/c the screwholes are worn out, then you might have some flexing problems as well. Getting the screws tight are pretty important on the rear brace.

Basically, removing and re-installing self-tapping screws into plastic is NOT a good thing and should be avoided if possible. That is the justification for the mods.... hey, but who am I to tell you what to do, just my thoughts
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:50 AM   #7692
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[QUOTE=JAG Racing]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
3 screws actually and its pretty quick for me. Also the modification of the rear brace which is already flimsy enough to grant hpi the reason to create an aluminum upgrade.

.. actually the reason is called " revenue generation". No, the rear brace is not flimsy enough to be a problem. Try to flex your chassis and see the rear brace will not flex. It will flex right at the connection where the brace mounts to the upper chassis deck. The mounting of the rear brace is where the problem might be (if a stress analysis was performed). Now if you are not able to tighten the brace properly b/c the screwholes are worn out, then you might have some flexing problems as well. Getting the screws tight are pretty important on the rear brace.

Basically, removing and re-installing self-tapping screws into plastic is NOT a good thing and should be avoided if possible. That is the justification for the mods.... hey, but who am I to tell you what to do, just my thoughts
thanks for the tips.....
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Old 07-01-2005, 02:36 AM   #7693
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Just remove the four screws on the engine mount and you can remove the engine... Dont need any mod after all you dont need to redo the meshing again.
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:16 AM   #7694
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[QUOTE=JAG Racing]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
3 screws actually and its pretty quick for me. Also the modification of the rear brace which is already flimsy enough to grant hpi the reason to create an aluminum upgrade.

.. actually the reason is called " revenue generation". No, the rear brace is not flimsy enough to be a problem. Try to flex your chassis and see the rear brace will not flex. It will flex right at the connection where the brace mounts to the upper chassis deck. The mounting of the rear brace is where the problem might be (if a stress analysis was performed). Now if you are not able to tighten the brace properly b/c the screwholes are worn out, then you might have some flexing problems as well. Getting the screws tight are pretty important on the rear brace.

Basically, removing and re-installing self-tapping screws into plastic is NOT a good thing and should be avoided if possible. That is the justification for the mods.... hey, but who am I to tell you what to do, just my thoughts
I actually just removed it and tested it out. Definently a bit too flexy. I went ahead and installed the aluminum option part for it. Also trying to "see" if the car is flexing is almost impossible by just looking and pushing on it. But take the idea of the car traveling over ultra bumpy road at over 600mph if it were scale. Im sure during that time a little bit of flex isnt probably a good thing.

I dont think HPI set out to make an aluminum part for everything they could to just make some money. It does seem they spent time only doing this with parts that need it.

I mean really its the only part that I have put on the car thats aluminum. Its really the only part that seems could get flex. This is also where the engine torques down its power on the chassis. Trust me to say that this part is worthless. Is really selling yourself short.

I believe its worthwhile and will let you guys know how the car handles. I havent touched it since last race so we will see. I also have a feeling it probably helps combat the gears flexing from each other. This is what connects the front upper deck to the rear. Its probably a pretty big deal. Im hoping this helps tighten the car up a bit.
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:08 AM   #7695
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[QUOTE=JAG Racing]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I

Basically, removing and re-installing self-tapping screws into plastic is NOT a good thing and should be avoided if possible. That is the justification for the mods.... hey, but who am I to tell you what to do, just my thoughts
Also with self-tapping screws. They only "self-tap" once. With RC Plastics and Composites they actually hold there form pretty nicely and its not getting self-tapped over and over. Unless you dont know how to screw in screws.

Sure overtime they do get worn and you dont want to go tightening your screws on and off. Or go using high-power and fast power drills on your screws to where the screw can heat up and this could start wearing down on things. Otherwise they should hold up pretty good.
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