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Old 11-06-2003, 01:03 AM   #751
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The only way to get all the hop up parts that Hara used at the Roar Nationals is to go buy them over seas... That's if you want them right now...I guess the hollow shafts can be bought now here in the states, but if you really want your car dialed in and lose some extra weight, you'll have to buy in Japan or Hong Kong... Sure the car is nice now, but the car is not a true Team car... The car is bone stock out of the box. Some may like it just liike that and that's fine. I'm just saying that the team cars are completly different then the one straight from the box. And just a note... All the HPI R40 team drivers have all the same Hop ups... I wonder why....
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:51 AM   #752
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
And just a note... All the HPI R40 team drivers have all the same Hop ups... I wonder why....
rc_alan, I'm not so sure your right on that point. If you look at the pics from the JMRCA 1/10 scale GP Nationals, the HPI R40 team drivers do not all have the same Hop ups. One might say that they may all have access to the same parts, but it's clear that they don't all have the same Hop-ups. One driver looks to be using a stock shock tower, while another one appears to be using one from Kawahara. And if you can get the other parts overseas right now, can you point us to a website?
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Old 11-06-2003, 09:29 AM   #753
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Hey C0NTENDER... I see you're over here also... Great!!! As for the team driver hop ups, I was looking at the set up sheets/notes from the HPI website and both given which are Hara's and Thad Garners. Both team drivers are using the same hop up parts.... These differences to a novice might not make a big difference, but to a true hobbiest, these changes are huge... As for the overseas websites... Man, I'm looking and searching... I was told at a lhs that's the way to go as these parts are already availible in Japan and HPI is going to wait awhile before they bring them here... Why??? Your guess is as good as mine. If you have the Nov 2003 issue of Xtreme RC Cars, page 99, the stock R40 goes from 0-60 feet in 1.81 secs @ 32.1 mph and tops out at 50.1... Just to compare cars, the Trinity Reflex NT in the April 2003 issue goes from 0-60 feet in 1.55 sec @40.4 mph and tops out at 53mph. The Schumacher Fusion R12 in the July issue goes from 0-60 feet at [email protected] Sure this might be due to gearing but both cars are lighter and all three cars motor hp rating are about 1.35. I have the R40 and while on the track, other drivers are killing me... I'm running both the Rossi Pixy rated at 1.48hp's and a Mugen MT-12 rated @ 1.20hp's. I think the first thing to change are those shock towers and It's my guess, but we can be very creative in the area of gearing also... The Trinity Reflex internal gear ration is 2.52:1 while the R40 is 2.42:1... Not that big a difference and there spur and clutch gearing are simular to the R40's I'm going to try a few things today at the track with the gearing to see what happens.. ie using the Reflex's gearing to see if I can get a increase in speed. All of the listed R40 gearing options have only a 3 tooth change. Page 45 in manual, while the Trinity Reflex has a 4 tooth jump... That can be huge in the area of take off and overall top speed. I'll post back later to let you know the out come... Sorry for the long reply...

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Old 11-06-2003, 09:49 AM   #754
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
I think the first thing to change are those shock towers and It's my guess, but we can be very creative in the area of gearing also... The Trinity Reflex internal gear ration is 2.52:1 while the R40 is 2.42:1... Not that big a difference and there spur and clutch gearing are simular to the R40's
RC_Alan, you're on the right track. However, I suggest you look more into the Centax clutch setup than anything else.

Easier way is to also change your stock 1st gear pinion down to 15T. That will give you 7.75 for the first gear with the 48T spur which would be better than the stock 1st gearing for the Reflex.
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Old 11-06-2003, 09:57 AM   #755
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
All of the listed R40 gearing options have only a 3 tooth change. Page 45 in manual, while the Trinity Reflex has a 4 tooth jump... That can be huge in the area of take off and overall top speed

RC_Alan
Now that I have been educated by this forum, let me comment on this. The R40 allows you to run ANY 1st gear combination with ANY 2nd gear combination, without having to adjust the engine position. You are reading page 45 incorrectly (as was I). They do not intend to imply that only certain 1st's can be used with certain 2nds. Pick any combo you want, and it all works. For example, you can run a 15/49 1st with a 21/43 2nd, if you wanted to. Slick design really.
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:05 AM   #756
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
Sure this might be due to gearing but both cars are lighter and all three cars motor hp rating are about 1.35.
RC_Alan
There are way, way, waaaay too many factors to consider there before you compare those raw numbers.

-clutch setup....centax setup, three shoe???

-weight... what equipment were they running. A heavy Xxtra reciever, or a lightweight XXL? Whose servos? What type of receiver pack??? the list goes on...

-'gearing might have something to do with it'....thats an understatement. I ran a ReflexNT all this season. With what was probably the slowest motor of all the top runners(an un-moded .12tr) But, I could kill everyone through the infield on our technical track. Even the guys with the high powered motors. But at the larger track, with mostly straights and sweepers, my car was pretty much unuseable because the stock gearing just wasn't up to the task.

-'all three cars motor hp ratings are about 1.35'...this is another case of numbers that could be lying to you. Yeah all the engines are rated at that, but is that by the manufacturer or in a test. Manufacturers have been know to 'stretch' the numbers for their engines base horse power. Another issue is, even if the hp is the same, how does that engine produce that power. My .12tr doesn't have the top end that some of the Mugen or Sirio engines do, but it also produces more power earlier in the band than those do. That can also effect the 0-60 numbers

Basically what I'm saying is that checking the 0-60 in RC isn't the same as real life. In real life the cars they test....come with those engines! Those engines are meant for those cars and the gearing is set appropriately to suit the engine. In RC, testing the 0-60 of different cars with different manufacturers engines borders on pointless. And even if you test with the same engine(or engines with similar hp) you have to ask whether the gearing in that particular car was suited to the powerband of that engine.

I'm not saying the conclusions you've drawn are wrong, because we all have to draw our own conclusions when were given numbers(like 0-60 times) to examine. I'm just saying there are a whole lot of factors to consider when you see a magazine do those 0-60 times. Which is why I don't feel that they should do them. Their misleading because of all the factors in play.
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:05 AM   #757
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Quote:
Originally posted by Walt
For example, you can run a 15/49 1st with a 21/43 2nd, if you wanted to. Slick design really.
Yup. Within the limits of the engine powerband of course...
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:26 AM   #758
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OK, glancing thru this thread for a minute or two trying to choose a car to supliment (or supplant) my LD3 for next season, and the R40 is looking like a winner. Now, the last belt drive nitro I had was an old Kyosho Spider Mk.II, which had a rather bad habit of shreading the pulleys until I got the aluminum pulleys. Does the R40 have any such problems, or did they spec the aluminum pullies from the beginning? And what gear ratio does the car have? I'm not too concerned with the weight since I am by no means at a 'pro' level to drive, but I would like to have it geared for my club track. The infield has been quite tight, but it has a nice 250ft back straight. WIth a FDR of 6.07 1st and 5.22 2nd, it gives a pretty good balance thru the track
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:38 AM   #759
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Quote:
Originally posted by spenzalii
WIth a FDR of 6.07 1st and 5.22 2nd, it gives a pretty good balance thru the track
I don't think the R40 reaches a low 1st gear ratio like the one you posted above. The lowest it goes is 6.322 with an 18T/47T combo. For the 2nd gear, you could go with 20T/43T (5.205) or 21T/45T (5.188) combo.
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Old 11-06-2003, 10:54 AM   #760
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Woops, flipped the numbers on the tranny (16/21 bell, 44/39 clutch, which should be 6.87 1st and 4.62 2nd). I get that confused most times. I knew those numbers didn't look right...
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Old 11-06-2003, 03:07 PM   #761
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Hey guys, i have already posted this in f/s/trade but i need to sell fast. Its a brand new never run or turned over Ofna Hyper 7 8pt. The LHS sells for 189.99. Yours for 125 shipped. Please pm me or e-mail me ASAP Thanks. Its the non pull/purple head/sport version
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Old 11-07-2003, 02:26 AM   #762
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Default weight reduction program

I save some weight by milling out the chassis. I save about 19 grams. Combined with both the hollow shafts, I saved total weight of 41 grams.

By the way, it's quite easy to make your own hollow shaft. Just go to a local machine shop and have them drill 3.5mm hole thru the shaft.

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Old 11-07-2003, 05:51 AM   #763
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The lowest (numerically high #) is 7.909 for first(thats a 49/15 combo).....you can team that with ANY second gear combo......
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Old 11-07-2003, 06:07 AM   #764
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Default Re: weight reduction program

Quote:
Originally posted by Pembalap
By the way, it's quite easy to make your own hollow shaft. Just go to a local machine shop and have them drill 3.5mm hole thru the shaft.
Yeah, easy but I believe you need a lathe for that. The best would be to have an EDM equipment to drill it fast and clean !
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Old 11-07-2003, 08:56 AM   #765
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Default Re: Re: weight reduction program

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, easy but I believe you need a lathe for that. The best would be to have an EDM equipment to drill it fast and clean !
You must be kidding. I could have that shaft bored out on a lathe before you could even get the EDM machine set-up, and the lathe boring will be every bit as clean as you would ever need.
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