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Old 06-20-2005, 02:35 PM   #7486
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I bought a Spektrum system myself for my Mars. It made sense for me because I plan to race plenty, both electric and nitro touring car, and I needed a failsafe for nitro. I don't plan on going back to crystals anytime soon!

Hark - don't you guys have fold up tables over there?
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:13 PM   #7487
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We do have those, but you have to bring them. I rode with my friend and his Civic isn't big enough. When I getmy own car Ill get one.
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Old 06-20-2005, 09:40 PM   #7488
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The Spektrum is the way to go if you cant get one for your radio.... they are selling out fast..... even on Ebay they are getting fewer and fewer. I have a couple of friends that run the Spektrum system in their radios and cars.... and it nice to know you can click on your radio anytime you want and not have any interference.

I just bought a Mars R radio... and my next purchase will be the Spektrum radio system.... I believe this is the best RC invention since RC came into play.

Oh and HarK...... have you thought of buying yourself a table to work on.... would be much better than working on the ground...... I started out the same way..... I got a table and it made the whole racing experience much better and enjoyable......
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Old 06-21-2005, 10:05 AM   #7489
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Default LW 2-Speed Transmission

If I install a new LW 2-speed transmission, Is there anything else I should also check for shifting problems?
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Old 06-21-2005, 11:39 AM   #7490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40LV
The Spektrum is the way to go if you cant get one for your radio.... they are selling out fast..... even on Ebay they are getting fewer and fewer. I have a couple of friends that run the Spektrum system in their radios and cars.... and it nice to know you can click on your radio anytime you want and not have any interference.
What do you mean they are selling out fast? I dont believe these are a limited production so they should always be around.
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:08 PM   #7491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
OK - Once again, I blew out the outer clutch bell bearing this past weekend. Its like clockwork, it lasts about 4 months only (or 8 - 10 races). This bearing is clearly undersized for the application in my opinion. I am going to replace it every 6 - 8 races from now on as preventive maintenance. In addition, I will start to lubricate it more frequently.

Other than that, the car was flawless this past weekend.
Are you talking about the flanged sealed bearing or the thrust bearing with the loose balls? If its the thrust bearing make sure that you are installing the smaller of the 2 races on the outside. You can't tell by looking at them, but one is smaller in diameter then the other. I couldn't tell until I used my calipers to measure. The most common reason for the clutch bell bearings to fail is a slipping clutch. If you are using a high powered engine you probably need to go to a harder clutch spring and better clutch shoes. Use either the Mugen Grey or the Delta Red shoes. People are using the harder Mugen or Kyosho springs too.

Heres a clip from a post WAYYY back in this thread.

The clutch fix. The way to make the clutch awesome is as follows:

1. Get a Mugen grey shoe or a Red rulon shoe from Delta. This will eliminate most of the slipping. The stock black shoe I estimates slips around 10000 rpm at least. With the red or grey that drops to a few thousand. Very noticable punch increase.

2. I finally trialled the new spring. I am using the Kyosho hard black spring from the Evolution. A Mugen silver will work similarly. The main advantage is that these springs have less winds and you dont need to crank down on them so hard. They are around 1mm shorter. With the HPI spring you need to crank down on it so hard to get good high engagement you start to get spring bind (the loops touch each other) and the engagement sticks. A harder spring wont get the binding.
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:10 PM   #7492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeatherB
Anyone know whether it is possible to run a purple first gear pinion and a green second gear pinion together?

You can run any combination of first and second gear pinions. They are all the same diameter son you won't run into any gear mesh problems.
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:38 PM   #7493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Are you talking about the flanged sealed bearing or the thrust bearing with the loose balls? If its the thrust bearing make sure that you are installing the smaller of the 2 races on the outside. You can't tell by looking at them, but one is smaller in diameter then the other. I couldn't tell until I used my calipers to measure. The most common reason for the clutch bell bearings to fail is a slipping clutch. If you are using a high powered engine you probably need to go to a harder clutch spring and better clutch shoes. Use either the Mugen Grey or the Delta Red shoes. People are using the harder Mugen or Kyosho springs too.

Heres a clip from a post WAYYY back in this thread.

The clutch fix. The way to make the clutch awesome is as follows:

1. Get a Mugen grey shoe or a Red rulon shoe from Delta. This will eliminate most of the slipping. The stock black shoe I estimates slips around 10000 rpm at least. With the red or grey that drops to a few thousand. Very noticable punch increase.

2. I finally trialled the new spring. I am using the Kyosho hard black spring from the Evolution. A Mugen silver will work similarly. The main advantage is that these springs have less winds and you dont need to crank down on them so hard. They are around 1mm shorter. With the HPI spring you need to crank down on it so hard to get good high engagement you start to get spring bind (the loops touch each other) and the engagement sticks. A harder spring wont get the binding.

Thanks Roy - I do run the grey shoe and silver spring set-up already. I might not have the clutch adjusted optimally yet. I need a better way to find the engaugment RPM....

Any suggestions besides purchasing a tach? If it's one of those " do it by feel" then I'll have to figure it out on my own.

It was the outer clutchbell bearing (flanged bearing) - not the thrust bearing.
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Old 06-21-2005, 03:15 PM   #7494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972
HarKonnenD : Where can I purchase the LW 2 - speed?

I have an extra one (used) in great condition if you are interested.

email [email protected]
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Old 06-21-2005, 03:27 PM   #7495
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Default Carburator - low adjustment access

Guys - If you own one of the popular italian engines, you understand how difficult it is to access the low-end carb mixture setting screw in the R40. If you rotate the carb CW to its max position, then it is hard to access the idle adjustment screw.

So - who has a good solution to share that allows easier access to BOTH the low-end and idle adjustments screws. -- thanks in advance.
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Old 06-21-2005, 08:29 PM   #7496
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They are not limited production, but with the demand for the Spektrum... it doesnt seem like they can keep up and most places are sold out of them.....thats what I meant.....
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:31 AM   #7497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Guys - If you own one of the popular italian engines, you understand how difficult it is to access the low-end carb mixture setting screw in the R40. If you rotate the carb CW to its max position, then it is hard to access the idle adjustment screw.

So - who has a good solution to share that allows easier access to BOTH the low-end and idle adjustments screws. -- thanks in advance.
Yeah its terrible. I have gone ahead and totally angled the carb as far left as possible. Then next I shaved the gas tank if there were any problems with the carb hitting at WOT.

Idle doesnt seem to be hard. Im already swapping in yet another motor for my next race and to tell you the truth im getting tired of dealing with motor stuff on the R40. As soon as I get a good one in there, that fits well. Its staying.
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:06 AM   #7498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAG Racing
Guys - If you own one of the popular italian engines, you understand how difficult it is to access the low-end carb mixture setting screw in the R40. If you rotate the carb CW to its max position, then it is hard to access the idle adjustment screw.

So - who has a good solution to share that allows easier access to BOTH the low-end and idle adjustments screws. -- thanks in advance.
I simply adjust the mid range needle. It works fine for small changes and does the same thing mostly. Once I get the car off the track and the body off it I use a long thin screwdriver to do the bottom end needle and reset the mid needle.
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:10 AM   #7499
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Adjusting the low needle on the R40 is easy compared with my old Serpent Impulse...

You need to angle the carb almost till the idle needle hits the body of the engine (almost). Then you should be able to adjust both in good light (so you can see where the slot on the screw is).

Never had any real problems, just make sure you can see the screw before turning the screw driver.
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:11 AM   #7500
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Any thoughts on the super chassis? Worth $70US?

I placed an order with Tower for light weight 2 speed and mid shafts. I also got the green second pinion. This thing should fly now.
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