R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-15-2005, 09:24 AM   #7351
Tech Master
 
oblivion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

im having a prob setting up the R40 centax clutch and hope someone can point me in the right direction..

i followed the pdf exploded view to a tee and im using the standard shaft adaptor (#87093) and i seem to have a possible prob with the clutchbell, cb bearings, thrust bearing + end bolt setup.

i slide bearing #B029 onto the standard pilot shaft then the clutchbell follows. but now the tip of the pilot nut is only (guesstimate) 1/4 of the way through B019.
if i slide on #B019 (5x8x2.5 bearing) then the thrust bearing and do up the bolt anything more than finger tight it will lock up my clutchbell.

ive even tested the pilot nut on its own by putting it into the cb with the right bearings and it does the same thing. also because its not far enough into the 5x8 bearing, it allows a bit of wobble on the end aswell.

any help appreciated, thanks.
__________________
gone flying...

Last edited by oblivion; 06-15-2005 at 09:43 AM.
oblivion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 09:43 AM   #7352
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Oblivion: Welcome to the forum. Are you using a standard shaft engine with the pilot shaft adapter right? Doesnt it say to omit something when using this?

If you need things compacted you can always leave out the black washer at the very first step behind the flywheel collet. z699

Hope that helps.

NSX: I have a post on the slop. There is 3 main areas. Ive found a few more possibilities but those are as easily fixed. The steering post side with the servo saver. The piece that goes over the other and has a hex deal at the bottom. (im hoping that wasnt confusing) You just pull that out and wiggle it...if it wiggles. Then put some thread seal around there, then put it back on... It wont wiggle now.

Then get a very thin 1-2mm washer and place it on the US Driver Side post or facing the car with the front towards you. The right post. Youll notice its farther down and has space to place something on. You do that and make sure when you goto put the bulkhead on that it goes completely flat and that it causes no binding.

You got the steering plate part so after that you should have slop much more removed. I think the rest comes down to how well the tolerances are on your car. I notice one side that the dogbone goes into, it jiggles around a bit more than the other side. Some cars are tighter some arent. You can only hope once a part wears down and you replace it, that the new one will have tighter tolerances.

But that should cut it down quite a bit.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 09:44 AM   #7353
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

NSX: BTW you say you got the dragon engine. What was it again, the d3 or d5? Have you run it yet. I have yet to run mine...I cant wait though.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 10:01 AM   #7354
Tech Master
 
oblivion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Oblivion: Welcome to the forum
Are you using a standard shaft engine with the pilot shaft adapter right? Doesnt it say to omit something when using this?
thanks for the welcome mate..

If you need things compacted you can always leave out the black washer at the very first step behind the flywheel collet. z699

Hope that helps.
thanks for the warm welcome + speedy reply.. yes i have a standard shaft engine and im using this R40 standard shaft pilot nut
the engine, collet, flywheel, clutch shoes, spacer, weights, adjust nut +spring assy' etc dont affect the prob i have, you can leave them out this test below..

if you get just the standard pilot nut on its own (link supplied above) then slide on the B029 bearing it can only go on so far before it stops against the adjust nut thread...
then slide over the clutchbell, and the little stumpy end of the pilot shaft will not reach the end of the next bearing #B019.

surely the end of the pilot nut should sit flush with the end of the 8x5 "b019" bearing?

edit: i dont have the manuals, ive only got the pdf to go by..
__________________
gone flying...
oblivion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 10:30 AM   #7355
Tech Master
 
oblivion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

ok i think ive found the prob, and what a wally i am (slaps forehead)

in my infinite wisdon, i had fitted a 5x8x4mm thick bearing (almost as thick as me! ) and im supposed to be using a 5x8x2.5mm bearing.

the added bearing thickness was throwing everything outta whack..

thanks anyway Artificial-I.
__________________
gone flying...
oblivion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 10:33 AM   #7356
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oblivion
ok i think ive found the prob, and what a wally i am (slaps forehead)

in my infinite wisdon, i had fitted a 5x8x4mm thick bearing (almost as thick as me! ) and im supposed to be using a 5x8x2.5mm bearing.

the added bearing thickness was throwing everything outta whack..

thanks anyway Artificial-I.
Yeah I figured out what you were saying and was completely stumped to why it would not fit. I thought to myself why would hpi supply this stuff out of wack.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 11:56 AM   #7357
Tech Addict
 
WeatherB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto. Ontario
Posts: 664
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Just incase you've got any more problems here is the manual for the clutch installation:



WeatherB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 12:36 PM   #7358
Tech Regular
 
JAG Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Prosper, Texas
Posts: 458
Send a message via AIM to JAG Racing
Default LW 2-speed

Anyone need a light-weight 2-sp for their R40?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5980902413
JAG Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 12:37 PM   #7359
Tech Fanatic
 
nsxshogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 847
Send a message via AIM to nsxshogun
Default

Thanks AI im gonna try that stuff later. I have the reglar D5. But I'm having some problems with it I searched and many others have had the same. Check the sts forum for the details.
nsxshogun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 05:12 PM   #7360
Tech Master
 
oblivion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

thanks heaps weatherB, thats a huge help

cheers.
__________________
gone flying...
oblivion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 08:48 PM   #7361
Tech Addict
 
WeatherB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto. Ontario
Posts: 664
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

no problem... You can get the entire manual from www.hpiracing.com

Guys, I just installed the front and rear sway bars on the R40. Any ideas how it would run that that they're installed? Will there be less traction?
WeatherB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 09:24 PM   #7362
Tech Master
 
oblivion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

it transfers some of the body roll/weight thru the swaybar, taking less time for the car to yaw from a hard left into a hard right corner.
you will be able to take chicanes and other corners better, because the car doesnt bodyroll as much.

if you have it too stiff, yes you will lose traction and slide a bit more. running a softer rear sway than the front will help reduce oversteer if your spinning out.
__________________
gone flying...
oblivion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2005, 10:03 PM   #7363
Tech Regular
 
Hesky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sunny Blighty
Posts: 387
Default

Hi guys, Massive thread!!

Actually new to this forum, picked up a new R40 kit for 99 UK bucks over the weekend, HPI Europe seem to be feeling pretty generous this summer
This will be my 1st competition nitro kit, the weekend racing was left to my electrics before I had a massive break from racing.
Well basically I'm just less the engine and canít decide between the usual suspects below.

Novarossi NSR12 S5 with RDL turbo t-pipe + manifold
RB V12 5P Rody with matchin RB inline t-pipe + manifold

I can get the Rossi for £140 (about $260) a good $100 less than the rody in the UK (anywhere cheaper ouside the uk?). I really wouldnít mind a rody tuned motor but Iíve read that the nsr12 is a bit of a beast to.
Also I was wondering whatís the difference is between the power delivery of a 3 port compared to a 5 port, am I right in going for a 5 port setup?

Cheers
Hesky
Hesky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2005, 04:32 AM   #7364
Tech Addict
 
WeatherB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto. Ontario
Posts: 664
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I'm running the stock rear sway bars and the front one is so that the flat cutout on the bars are horizontal.

Does this sound like an okay setup?
WeatherB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2005, 04:47 AM   #7365
Moderator
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Artificial-I
Default

5 Port setup will make more power....but it usually makes it at a higher rpm and they are a bit harder to tune.

Another thing is that not all events allow 5-port. I know roar rules specify 3-port for racing , but it usually just depends on where your racing.

3 Port will generally make good power down low as well.

Also the need for power depends again on where your racing. Is the track large is the competition really fast are they running motors like this.

You really only want to be as fast as the first place guy if not a little faster than that....but not much more. Too much power just gets harder to handle , puts more wear on the tire and could essentially cause more fuel consumption causing more pit stops.

So I would base your decision off that. If you have a huge track where speed and power counts. Then 5 port rody would be nice im sure. If you want more low-end and its not a big track then the nova would be fine.
Artificial-I is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New on Nitro and this forum Emaxx rider Rookie Zone 8 02-06-2008 07:21 AM
HPI Nitro MT 2 Forum Tom P Electric Off-Road 5 07-19-2004 06:26 PM
New Nitro R/C Forum Dantherc10man Web Links 0 08-09-2003 07:39 AM
Nitro car forum Rose Money Singapore R/C Racers 47 07-04-2002 08:49 PM
Nitro Forum ART2 Singapore R/C Racers 41 05-16-2002 10:51 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:38 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net