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Old 06-12-2005, 08:31 AM   #7306
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Are people using oneways as well with the solid rearaxle or just the SRA(solid rear axle) in the rear with gear diff up front?
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:53 AM   #7307
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Well like I said im running the one-way in front and gear diff in the rear stock.

Hara uses one-way in the front as well and the 4-gear diff in the rear , with 30k grease.

I find it to be a good setup. It helps the rolling efficiency of the car and you dont brake anymore or at least you set up the car so it wont spin when using them which makes them very very light.

50weight oil in the rear , 60 in front.

Also the odd thing I noticed when I adjusted my settings on the track when my cars rear end came out once or twice.

Was that afterwards my chassis was scrapped up only in the rear really. This was a brand new chassis so its easy to tell.

While the front was pretty much untouched.

Shockingly I found these pictures just the other day of haras car.



Our chassis look very much the same except his is way further up and much worse. But im sure this is after a lot more racing at much higher speeds and power.

So im sure mine would look the same. But its exact down to the few scratches that catch at front.

Basically I think Ive emulated his setup pretty nicely and it works very well. The car did what I wanted and didnt twitch out and had good turn and transistioning. If you want to know if you have haras setup. Then this is a good way to tell...lol.
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:07 AM   #7308
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Oh and also I found a bunch of new setup sheets that no one knows about. Only problem is. They are in japanese and I cant even get my computer to load them.

If someone has japanese script properly installed and wants this , let me know. Im pretty sure some of these are haras setups. But they are stuff we havent seen in the us yet.
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Old 06-12-2005, 04:45 PM   #7309
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I did about 2 and a half tanks of gas throught the r40 today. I didnt strip the spur gear at all, so I guess the key is to keep the mesh as tight as possible. Ill be keeping an eye on it though.
The sirio engine is very fast, but It runs pretty hot. I got it running ok for the last tank but the first one got up to 289!! Does anyone else notice that theire sirio run hot?
Later
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Old 06-12-2005, 05:23 PM   #7310
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Just make sure when you spin the gears backwards that they actually spin and arent all tight acting.

I basically unscrew my car...pull my engine back towards the gear and make a good tight mesh. Then spin it backwards this will move it forward enough to have some good spin but not too much to where it will chew up a gear.

Then you tighten it while leaning the chassis backwards a tiny bit to help the motor stay against the gear mesh. Then retest once fully tightened with the backwards spin and listening to the mesh....it should spin pretty freely.
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Old 06-12-2005, 05:39 PM   #7311
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ya, thats pretty much what I did.
I should have greased my thrust bearing when I had my enigne out. Do you guys grease it every day of running or is it not necessary?
Thanks for the help artificial
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Old 06-12-2005, 06:59 PM   #7312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroracer20
ya, thats pretty much what I did.
I should have greased my thrust bearing when I had my enigne out. Do you guys grease it every day of running or is it not necessary?
Thanks for the help artificial
Not grease - I use a real light oil (3-in-1 oil) and I do it about every 3 or 4 racing weekends -- some people do it less. Bottom line - bearings need some bit of lubrication so I would say over-oiling is better than under-oiling; to a degree of course.
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:11 PM   #7313
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Default Run away R40

YEp, as a result of the on/off wire dragging, the black wire was spliced and my R40 took off without warning, rammed my friend's eral car tire, flung off the side belt and took off into the grass where it revved for a good 2 seconds before I got it and shut it down. HOLY (bleep)!!!! Lucky the only damage was the turn buckle popped out of the ballcup, slightly bent shock, and smashed front body. Other than that, everything else looks A ok. The chassis believe it or not still hasn't taken any beating other than scratches. Good thing it wasnt my 8th taking off. LOL! First, here is where we drove. It was a Sunday so no one was around. I got a nice video of the R40 zippin down the lot without the body and it was fast even for running slightly rich.
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:16 PM   #7314
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Default the damage...

welp..just this. Now I can toss this body and use the Lola again. Also, here are two lola bodies my friend game me for free that I plan on using for the track. Gonna have to cut out one of them though, but the other looks ready to go. I just need paint and some nice decals for it since my first one didn't come out so well.
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:37 PM   #7315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
YEp, as a result of the on/off wire dragging, the black wire was spliced and my R40 took off without warning, rammed my friend's eral car tire, flung off the side belt and took off into the grass where it revved for a good 2 seconds before I got it and shut it down. HOLY (bleep)!!!! Lucky the only damage was the turn buckle popped out of the ballcup, slightly bent shock, and smashed front body. Other than that, everything else looks A ok. The chassis believe it or not still hasn't taken any beating other than scratches. Good thing it wasnt my 8th taking off. LOL! First, here is where we drove. It was a Sunday so no one was around. I got a nice video of the R40 zippin down the lot without the body and it was fast even for running slightly rich.
would a failsafe have worked in this situation?
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:40 PM   #7316
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Nope, Power was totally cut off and my TRS somehow broke (Cheap spring) so the cars was up and out! Like I said the damage was minimal. Just turnbuckle popped out of cup, lost body clip, and body nose busted. Easily fixed . The belts had no damage and everything else on the car is good 2 go.
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:42 PM   #7317
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Klander,REGG, NSX, Onnetz, Edgar- YGM.

Regg- I know you already saw, lol. I'm gonna try to make it to floyd this week once my friend get his R40 going.
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:27 PM   #7318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Nope, Power was totally cut off and my TRS somehow broke (Cheap spring) so the cars was up and out! Like I said the damage was minimal. Just turnbuckle popped out of cup, lost body clip, and body nose busted. Easily fixed . The belts had no damage and everything else on the car is good 2 go.
glad you had luck on your side and nothing more serious happened to it.

and thanks for the vid, looks like it was moving right along...
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Old 06-12-2005, 10:09 PM   #7319
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Well I found out after a bit more inspection the right rear wheel wobbles just a tiny bit (prob due to the spacers) and where I got the R40 decal the upper deck has been cracked a little. If anything I'll get the LW version as a replacement or another stock version. If the R40 won't be ready in time for the trip to floyd (if/when we go) I'll be running the Mugen. I got one of the bodies my friend game me on the R40 and it appears it's a bit wide. I dont think it's for nitro sedans, but may 10th elec pan cars as those cars are wider than sedans. Regardless I may widen the R40 a bit and see how it runs. Love the Rody engine and hopefully it starts up when I give it a try tomorrow. The forecast for this week looks a bit troublesome, so I may go upto my sister's house instead.
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Old 06-12-2005, 10:46 PM   #7320
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OK... I am just wondering if everyone on here knows that if you were to go to a big race (Texas Biggie, Great Lakes Challenge, Paris Memorial) or hell even a National event. That you would be able to run the Lola bodies... I would suggest that if you want the real feel for a sedan car use a sedan body.... I would suggest the Mazda 6 body..... YES!! they are cool, but the car handles totally different with a sedan body on it.....


Oh yeah last night at a race i went to I saw a Novarossi and an O.S. TZ just whip up on a RODY RB12...... so that engine isnt as fast as I thought it was.....
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