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Old 06-09-2005, 04:48 PM   #7246
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Well, i finally got my engine for the r40. I got a Nova Mugen MT12 for 60 and i have a few questions:

1. When installing the clutch, there was around 3mm between the engine and the flywheel, i tightened it on as tight as possible using a socket. This meant that with the rest in the clutch installed there was no room for any shims, there is still around 0.2mm endplay so i should be ok right?

2. Partly due to the reason above it is impossible to get a perfect gear mesh as the clutch it too far forward and the engine mounts do not allow it to sit further back. the second spur gear is slightly rubbing on the clutchbell!

Anyone had these problems?

Also what is a good pipe for this engine for around 50

Thanks

Chris
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Old 06-09-2005, 04:50 PM   #7247
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Remove the black washer behind the collet. 1st step in assembly. Just omit that piece, that should give you more room.

Yeah the rubbing will totally ruin the gear and cause major binding.
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Old 06-09-2005, 06:12 PM   #7248
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Never thought about that! Thanks.

oh, one more q. Does anyone know what the factory sellings are for the carb on the Nova mugen mt12, it isnt listed in the instructions!
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:13 PM   #7249
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if I remember correctly the HSN should be flush with the housing and the LSN should about 4 turns out from closed.
I belive these are in the ball park been awhile since I broke mine in but that should be rich enough to keep it libed and still get it started you'll probably need to readjust it after you get it started.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:58 PM   #7250
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Default rear shock tower

just wondering if when going to the cf rear shock tower do you need to remount the body?

also finally got some more pinions to mess around with... the parking lot I run in is pretty small so I tried the gold pinions and my motor seemed to love them... it ran cooler and was snappy as hell... I also went to an A5 plug from an os 8..
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Old 06-09-2005, 08:58 PM   #7251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
just wondering if when going to the cf rear shock tower do you need to remount the body?

also finally got some more pinions to mess around with... the parking lot I run in is pretty small so I tried the gold pinions and my motor seemed to love them... it ran cooler and was snappy as hell... I also went to an A5 plug from an os 8..

You don't need to drill new holes the body mounts will go in the same spot. unless you use different body posts mounted directly to the CFTower.

the A5 is a cooler plug then the #8 witchh would explain the cooler temps.
If the gold pinions work for you thats great the tracks i've run on required the green gears and I still toped out before the end of the straights. switched to the LW 2speed and it helps get up to speed faster and actually got more speed can keep pace with some of the higher end motors not bad for a old MT12.
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Old 06-09-2005, 10:13 PM   #7252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regg151
You don't need to drill new holes the body mounts will go in the same spot. unless you use different body posts mounted directly to the CFTower.

the A5 is a cooler plug then the #8 witchh would explain the cooler temps.
If the gold pinions work for you thats great the tracks i've run on required the green gears and I still toped out before the end of the straights. switched to the LW 2speed and it helps get up to speed faster and actually got more speed can keep pace with some of the higher end motors not bad for a old MT12.
thanks.. I had seen pics of people with the cf towers and body posts mounted directly to it and thats why I was thinking the body would need remounting.

I was using the green(2nd) and red(1st) pinions but it was overgeared causing it not to hit 2nd very often, it wasnt topping out in first but this seemed to cause it to run hotter..

one thing I've learned about this motor is that it like lots of fresh air on it...(might be time to try a lola body to give it more air)
otherwise you have to run it rich to keep it cool.... I'm also thinking about going to 30% and see how that goes.
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:11 AM   #7253
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Regg-Glad the MT12 is working for you. Mine IMO still isn't that fast since both cars are dialed..LOL. Basically dropped in a new engine. I mean the $320 could've gotten me a ton of parts and tuning stuff, but eh I'll do that later . I may be able to go next week sometime so we'll see what goes on.

All-Another thing the Lola bodies are good for...tossing your friends car a foot in the air!! Didn't get shots, but after drag racing against my friends R40, he ran into my path and I scooped him into the air as he flew for 10ft and skidded on the roof all the way under his real car. He landed right side up on the other side and no damages. He just had body scratches, small dent, but later on we found out his 2nd gear was stripped and first was missing several teeth! LOL. For now I'll be breakin in the MRX4, but gonna run the R40 without the restrictor.
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:13 AM   #7254
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Onnetz you dont need a lola body to get more air. Proper holes in the body works well and a air filter than lets your engine breath, but prevents the stuff from getting in. I run THS airfilters (look like ellegis ) and I have no problem with em. I get two in a pack for $6 bucks so its all good. Love my LHS.
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:31 AM   #7255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Onnetz you dont need a lola body to get more air. Proper holes in the body works well and a air filter than lets your engine breath, but prevents the stuff from getting in. I run THS airfilters (look like ellegis ) and I have no problem with em. I get two in a pack for $6 bucks so its all good. Love my LHS.
well I have no problem with it breathing.. here is the filter that came with the engine... 3.89 for two. can't beat that..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDZW5&P=7

I'm at the point now where I almost have no front or rear windshield and there is still about 40deg difference without the body.. its fine as long as I keep it at high speeds but as soon as I start running it slower the temp starts jumping up there..
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Old 06-10-2005, 05:15 AM   #7256
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Richen your low-end needle.
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Old 06-10-2005, 05:18 AM   #7257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regg151
You don't need to drill new holes the body mounts will go in the same spot. unless you use different body posts mounted directly to the CFTower.

the A5 is a cooler plug then the #8 witchh would explain the cooler temps.
If the gold pinions work for you thats great the tracks i've run on required the green gears and I still toped out before the end of the straights. switched to the LW 2speed and it helps get up to speed faster and actually got more speed can keep pace with some of the higher end motors not bad for a old MT12.
Yeah I think the wide body mount is for when your running lola body.

I believe the a5 was a hotter plug. When you drop in numbers your normally going to a hotter plug.

I know the a5 plug is cheaper and the a3 is even cheaper. The #8 is the better plug to buy due to quality.

But then again yesterday someone was telling me how the a3 is the exact same temp as the #8 just cheaper.

I believe the 5 and 3 are hotter and cheaper.

If you guys want to run a badass plug. Get the fox pro racing #8's those things are sweet and cheap. They last , they give good smoke and they cool well. I highly suggest anyone who likes the os #8's to try this plug.

You can find it at towerhobbies here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG899&P=7
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Old 06-10-2005, 06:31 AM   #7258
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AI the OS A5 is a cold plug the A3 is a hot plug and the #8 is a medium plug acording to OS.

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Old 06-10-2005, 07:06 AM   #7259
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Wow! About time. Ive heard too many stories on os plugs. Now I know, this helps big time. Im saving and printing this one out. Thanks regg!
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Old 06-10-2005, 08:27 AM   #7260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Richen your low-end needle.
did that to the point of where it sounded like someone was gargling......

I dont believe its in the tuning, because by the time I richen it up enough to stay around 230 its got no power.. It runs great at around 250 and if I can get that power and keep it running cooler with a lola body, then I'm going to do it.

I've read in the nitro engine thread that several people with the same engine are saying it likes to run hot..
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