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Old 05-26-2005, 07:45 PM   #6961
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Originally Posted by JAG Racing
I might let my Nova Rossi NS3 go as I picked up another engine recently. I am running the Texas Biggie this weekend and I want to make sure I want to part with it first.
I just need the motor before the end of the month. Also I believe I found you selling another motor. Trinity/Picco XP-12 I cant find any info on it, but what do you think about it.
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Old 05-26-2005, 07:51 PM   #6962
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you could always order the os 12 tz 3port from RCChamp under 200$us with shipping.
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Old 05-26-2005, 08:23 PM   #6963
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I also found the STS Dragon d3r modified for $130.
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:23 PM   #6964
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Go with engines you can get parts for. I'd have to order parts for an engine also.
I haven't seen many STS engines running lately or where they are, are in places that specialize in them. The Rossi pixi's are nice, but good luck on getting parts for those. For the price, $30 more can get you an NS12 that will spank it on both bottom and top range. That OS though is really awesome and I'd definately recommend that one. The engine is not only reliable, but the quality on it is outstanding! It will pretty much run with all the high end motors. Definately wait on it.

Klander- My floating rear mount is almost done and I'll be posting pictures and explaining things. Regardless I'm still gonna buy an 8th onroad.
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:40 PM   #6965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Go with engines you can get parts for. I'd have to order parts for an engine also.
I haven't seen many STS engines running lately or where they are, are in places that specialize in them. The Rossi pixi's are nice, but good luck on getting parts for those. For the price, $30 more can get you an NS12 that will spank it on both bottom and top range. That OS though is really awesome and I'd definately recommend that one. The engine is not only reliable, but the quality on it is outstanding! It will pretty much run with all the high end motors. Definately wait on it.

Klander- My floating rear mount is almost done and I'll be posting pictures and explaining things. Regardless I'm still gonna buy an 8th onroad.
YEAH for the money I'd get the OStz .12 somewhere else... At towers it's $250 because it just came out and they play with prices, but If I was you I'd wait for that monster in disguise lol...

HARK- let me know when you are done, as I want to see your design badly
good luck and hopefully it will be better than what I came up with
later
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:22 AM   #6966
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Default CUSTOM FLOATING REAR MOUNT!

Welp, after starting at the old RCCA article on the MRX4 and constanly glancing at it's rear ( no pun intended ) I finally came up with a close enough and possible working design! Ofcourse all together it will add on a few xtra grams, but right now who cares? I want to see if this thing works. First I borrowed some links from my old NEO TNT. They were used in the front and rear hubs. I only needed two of them so I was good to go. I then attached them to the shock mouting holes of the R40 body mount that's said to be used in the manual as shown here. Here is a close up. Next, I found some locking washers that were just the right thickness (about 1.5MM) to use on the end of the screw to give the linkage some offset from the rear camber links.
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2448.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2450.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2452.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2453.jpg  
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:35 AM   #6967
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The third step was a hard one-finding a pivoting brace. I looked around and sure enough in my Hitec 625MG box was this weird looking servo horn. Will it work? Sure did. I used a bronze spacer, one of the metal screws included and that was drilled into the body mount. Also, there was a nice hole right in the middle of the graphite shock tower. That was the brace holder. In order to keep the servo horn from flopping back and forth, I had to place two 1mm spacers on the screw (think it was a 6mm long screw x1.5mmwide) and a small hex nut. It had to be one of those flat hex nuts though without the locking back part. Once the servo horn was in place, THEN came the locking hex nut on the outside. After some last minute fixing and testing, VOILA. It all worked great together! The holes in the servo horn acted as adjustment mounts because the bottom of the servo horn almost came into contact with the diff. I installed it on the bottom most hole on the horn and it worked well.

Here is the true way the lola w/floating body mount works. Under high speeds the downforce is applied to the HUB CARRIERS. This keeps the tires planted to the ground. Applying it to the suspension does absolutely NOTHING more that stiffening it and causing no suspension action under high speed parts of the track/lot. The pivot screw keeps the mounts into place. When the suspension IS compressed, the linkage pushes the bodymounts which pushes the rear of the body upward. This help create more downforce force under acceleration to again keep the car planted. The more the suspension is compressed, the high into the air the rear of the body is tilted upward and the more downforce is applied to the hubs. I'm not sure of the amount of force that will be applied to the hubs and will my linkages pop off since they are ballcups. The only way is to do a test. Gonna see if my LHS has the front oneway diff and solid rear axle for me. I will also try to get the MRX4 and a body.
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2456.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2459.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2469.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2460.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2462.jpg  

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Old 05-27-2005, 12:40 AM   #6968
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The rear of the body is already slightly tilted upward, however it's not that much and when under acceleration will be pushed up more. Here is some shots. In order of occurence from left to right (the last two) you can see the difference when at standard position and under force. The force was basically me pushing downward on the rear of the car. Stiffness of suspension also comes into play as to how fast or soon the rear of the car will be pushed into the air and retracted. The pivot arm also had to be checked to make sure there was no rocking, but maintaince smooth movement of up and down.
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2473.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2476.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2475.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2480.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2481.jpg  

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Old 05-27-2005, 12:46 AM   #6969
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Forgot a picture though. To make sure the body mount had proper vertical movement, I had to cut out some of the material to make it work.
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:20 AM   #6970
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where can i get titanium pivot balls?
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Old 05-27-2005, 09:46 AM   #6971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Forgot a picture though. To make sure the body mount had proper vertical movement, I had to cut out some of the material to make it work.

Where is the connection between the body and the rear wheel hub carrier like those Serpent car does...?
Please let me know.........because I have a even better and much more simple rear floating design that has been using on Serpent S710 and V1RRR which I found out when I was in Hong Kong....I will gather some pictures and some diagram....
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Old 05-27-2005, 10:32 AM   #6972
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HARK- nice design, Ill post some pics as soon as I get my kyosho V one RRR floating rear mount and play with it to see how to install it on my R-40...
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:09 PM   #6973
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Rookie- I basically used the linkages to hold the body mount bracker, and these square looking body posts from the R40 tree (don't havet he number) were used.

Klander- Sounds good. BTW look at my newest toy. This means for sure gonna get rid of the TL01, MGT, and maybe even the 8th buggy.
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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2470.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2471.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2482.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2483.jpg   HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dscn2484.jpg  

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Old 05-27-2005, 04:25 PM   #6974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Rookie- I basically used the linkages to hold the body mount bracker, and these square looking body posts from the R40 tree (don't havet he number) were used.

Klander- Sounds good. BTW look at my newest toy. This means for sure gonna get rid of the TL01, MGT, and maybe even the 8th buggy.
you lucky dog!!!......
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Old 05-27-2005, 04:57 PM   #6975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Rookie- I basically used the linkages to hold the body mount bracker, and these square looking body posts from the R40 tree (don't havet he number) were used.

Klander- Sounds good. BTW look at my newest toy. This means for sure gonna get rid of the TL01, MGT, and maybe even the 8th buggy.

AWESOME!!! put it together and take some pics for the R/C album... lol
Man... I'll probably get one too...
Lucky you!!!
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