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Old 05-19-2005, 09:51 PM   #6841
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I have a 12r xs and it also is a little screamer. It should go hard if tuned right.
how does it compare to other motors at your track?

I know I wont have any problems purchasing another one after this one dies.....
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:56 PM   #6842
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Quote:
Originally posted by onnetz
how does it compare to other motors at your track?

I know I wont have any problems purchasing another one after this one dies.....
Hmm lets put it like this. When you are driving a 1/12 scale or a 2wd buggy on a low/medium traction track you pick an electric motor with the correct wind to not overpower the track. Same with a short track vs a long track.

So basically on the right track they are great little competitive motors, but on other tracks the "top end" motors have an advantage.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:06 PM   #6843
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Hmm lets put it like this. When you are driving a 1/12 scale or a 2wd buggy on a low/medium traction track you pick an electric motor with the correct wind to not overpower the track. Same with a short track vs a long track.

So basically on the right track they are great little competitive motors, but on other tracks the "top end" motors have an advantage.
thats what I figured, and everywhere to run around here is a fairly small area..... makeing it just right.
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Old 05-20-2005, 05:38 AM   #6844
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Ill repost where I found slop and how to remove it. After doing a lot of testing Ive gotten the slop down in my considerably.

But I still have some new front swing-shafts to test. I know there is possibly a place we can also place a shim between the shaft or wheel. That should also remove any remaining slop.
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Old 05-20-2005, 08:19 AM   #6845
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MY car has minimal slop in the front, but it doesn't affect my driving, try not to hit anything as AMG said the more yu hit walls or bash around the more slop ypu will develop. Did you say your car was used when you got it AI? If it is, you should change all affected parts for new ones and try a set-up in which you can drive your car with minimal slop.
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:48 AM   #6846
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Ok, parts should for the R40 should be in today. Gonna see about the real car first and if I don't get that, then I'll go ahead and get the parts.
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:50 AM   #6847
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HARK- which car are you getting?
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:23 AM   #6848
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It's a real car. Buick either 96 or 97 century. I'll haggle for $1300 after seeing it.

For my R40 it's getting the one way diff, solid rear axle, and LW chassis. I didn't order the chassis yet though. I like the way my car handles. Just been thinking of reducing the weight a little bit more so the car can even quicker. Compared to driving my NEO TNT way back (which I did pretty well with for a sport level car) the R40 is noticable heavier. However this doesn't seem to put a damper on acceleration and high speed turns. I too just think the LW chassis looks a bit better.
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:39 AM   #6849
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looks better and you take 20 grams off besides the fact that it has an opening below the engine for faster cooling....
check it out...
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:48 AM   #6850
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Yeah my car was bought used. Pretty good deal came with one way , lightweight 2speed gear housing , 3racing chassis brand new on it.

Some weird quirks on the car and I do have some replacement parts that came with it Iam guessing that im removing slop from parts that have gained it. So some of the stuff im finding it worthwhile if you dont feel like replacing parts all the time.

The piece of plast I inserted on the steering post where there is a gap also helped with that. Swapping back to the stock steering linkage also helped as they have better support.

Once im done the car will be brand new and its already pretty good just has some odd slop.

Basically if I turn the wheel to full left or right....one of the wheels. Im not sure which. Will just flop pretty easily from left to right like it almost has no support on it. Then you go full turn the opposite direction and the other wheel will do this.

I figure when the car needs full turn and one of the wheels is just flopping about. This probably wouldnt be good.

Unless you guys notice this happens with your cars, Im still trying to figure out why its doing that.
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:54 AM   #6851
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Klander-Definately! Hey I got a tip for ya. Use two 1mm spacers in each hub. That will bring the car to 200mm if you are running zero offset on the stock HPI tires. With my GRP foams that have 2mm offset I measured them at 205mm on front and rear. For the rear toe in, I used two 2mm spacers on the back rear pivot, and two 1mm spacers on the front rear pivot. When you tighten them, the car will have a bit excess toe in and when you push the car it will wiggle quite a bit when going straight. It will also spin out in a turn. To fix that, turn the front rear pivot ball exactly one turn out. Using this setup, a softer suspension setting in the rear, medium red spring front the car handle SO well on many surfaces that I drove on. It won't spin out in a turn and basically goes where you point it. The only problem is the rears wear down to the rims and the front shows very little wear.
I'm changing the setup now using red springs in the rear. The only thing is that the springs are a bit taller than the front. I think they are 29 or 30mm springs and the front is 25mm. The oneway diff is on backorder, but the solid rear axle they do have. Gonna ask them to order the chassis for me.
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:55 AM   #6852
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Here is the rear.
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:00 AM   #6853
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Hey Hark, if you do decide on the LW chassis, Bruckner in Hartsdale has ONE in stock and if you bring cash, I hear the price is negotiable. Ask for Felix when you call or go there.

As for your steering issue, have you tried turning down the EPA? I could not handle my R40 with it steering all the way out. It seems better to me at 80%.
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:03 AM   #6854
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Has anyone bought the LW graphite upper deck? I've heard about it, but never seen a clear picture of the thing. Tower shows something else that isn't the upper deck at all! Here is the new list I'm going to get.

LW chassis
LW upperdeck
Front oneway diff
Solid rear axle.

So with the LW chassis and upper deck thats knocking 40grams off. As for the oneway diff and solid rear I'm not sure. This guy isn't getting back to me on the car so I have no idea about what's going on and may just spend my $$ on the R40 for now. Just sick and tired of waiting.
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:05 AM   #6855
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midak
Hey Hark, if you do decide on the LW chassis, Bruckner in Hartsdale has ONE in stock and if you bring cash, I hear the price is negotiable. Ask for Felix when you call or go there.

As for your steering issue, have you tried turning down the EPA? I could not handle my R40 with it steering all the way out. It seems better to me at 80%.
Sounds good. I've heard about the one in hartsdale, but I'd have to talk the bus there and it's quite a ride. I have $$, but no way of going right now. I live in Port Chester. As for Steering I have no problem with it. Just saying that with my setup it won't do what you don't want it to, which is a good thing.
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