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Old 05-10-2005, 06:14 PM   #6571
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I'm going to be hitting FBF tommorow and again on friday gotta get the R40 dialed in for prospeed this sunday.
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Old 05-10-2005, 06:14 PM   #6572
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tranced- thanks for all your help so far. I will lock tite the clutch nut when I adjust it. It engages ok, but I just want to make it a little earlier.
Also., Does adjusting the nut have the same effect as turning the 1.5mm set screw behind the 2nd pinion?


Thanks Again
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Old 05-10-2005, 06:24 PM   #6573
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Regg- Sounds good. I'll LYK when I'll be going.

Nitro-Adjuster nut!!! That's what you adjust for clutch engagement. The clutch nut is what keeps locks the flywheel on. That is the nut you definately want to use threadlock on. As for my adjuster nut, I don't.
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Old 05-10-2005, 06:42 PM   #6574
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ok, thanks. By the nut, you mean the nut that goes on top of the spring?
Thanks again
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:23 PM   #6575
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Sorry, i might have confused you to what threads to locktite before. You want to put locktite on the threads of the actual Clutch nut (the one that holds the flywheel on), before putting the adjustment nut on (the nut that holds the short fat spring down and screws onto the Clutch nut)

<<Does adjusting the nut have the same effect as turning the 1.5mm set screw behind the 2nd pinion?
>>
Yes, but you aren't actually turning a set screw in that hole. what you're doing is putting the allen key in the little notches of the adjustment nut, so that when you turn the flywheel left or right, you're preventing the nut from turning with the flywheel, hence, adjusting it.
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:37 PM   #6576
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitroracer20
finally!!!
I got my problems figured out with my high revving r40. I dont want to talk about how stupid it was.
What was it?
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:45 PM   #6577
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitroracer20
ok, thanks. By the nut, you mean the nut that goes on top of the spring?
Thanks again
Yep thats the adjuster nut. Although its a cap, it's threaded and goes onto the clutch nut. If the clutch nut isn't tight and threadlocked on, it will certainly give you problems. Infact the car won't even start up.
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:06 AM   #6578
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
Yep thats the adjuster nut. Although its a cap, it's threaded and goes onto the clutch nut. If the clutch nut isn't tight and threadlocked on, it will certainly give you problems. Infact the car won't even start up.
I threadlocked the flywheel nut, but not the clutch spring nut. After breaking in the engine, running and wrecking my car all day (6 hours), the clutch spring was in the same position it was when I put the new kit together. I guess I was lucky.
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:15 AM   #6579
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Hey the other day I had trouble with the flywheel, one of the pins was loose and I had to take it apart and put it back in place, has anyone had this problem before? I put some thead locking compound, but is there an aftermarket flywheel for the R-40 instead of the stock, maybe a lighter one???
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:10 AM   #6580
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Quote:
Originally posted by KLANDERMAN
Hey the other day I had trouble with the flywheel, one of the pins was loose and I had to take it apart and put it back in place, has anyone had this problem before? I put some thead locking compound, but is there an aftermarket flywheel for the R-40 instead of the stock, maybe a lighter one???
Pull the pin out, and deform the end that fits into the flywheel. Then drive it back in. It should stay tight after that.
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:28 AM   #6581
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That works. Well I threadlocked the adjusternut spring. Some how it magicially tightened itself so that explains the high revving/slow moving from the start. The car is now cleaned and ready for action. Unfortunately we are going to a different lot so time to bring all the tools with me to so more tuning. Also, my rear foams wore down a bit more yesterday compared to the front tires. It's alright though. Got a pair of slicks, and more foams to mess with.
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Old 05-11-2005, 02:17 PM   #6582
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Ok, just spent that past 3 hours tweaking my steering. First off I noticed my R40 has quite a bit of slop and odd slop at that.

I noticed the person I bought the kit from had an aluminum steering kit.

So im like, why isnt this on there. Well today I go and put it on. After assembling everything back together. I go and play with the steering. Holy cow the slopped has increased 3 fold.

So im like what is going on here.

I found one way to fully reduce slop, no matter what. But still havent been able to find how to reduce this other one.

If youll then notice the steering has one side with a bearing. The other none. Making your on side shorter or more of a gap between the top of the bulkhead and your steering kit.

So what im wondering is, has anyone done anything to that gap. Like place another bearing like the ones being used on the other side on there. Im thinking that an a washer and this would help the slop.

The reason for the slop is the steering kit is able to flop around a lot.

I also found the other reason for the extra slop on the aluminum kit is a very small gap. The alum steering kit has a bit longer shaft that goes into the bearing that holds the steering brace.

When you goto screw down the screw was stopping early and not fully compressing the bearing against the brace.

So what I did to the aluminum kit was grind down that little shaft that holds the bearings for the brace and that helped quite a bit.

Ok so now I have a doable aluminum steering kit after some modification to make it match the stocks plastic shaft.

But still there is that final gap on the driver side between the steering kit shaft and the top of the bulk-head. After placing a screw driver on top of the brace and moving things back and forth.

Slop is all but fully removed now. But with that big gap this allows things to shake around.

Just seeing what you guys have done, if anything about this problem.

Thanks let me know. Tommorrow I will share all my findings. After this the car will be pretty much slop free!

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Old 05-11-2005, 02:33 PM   #6583
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Pull the pin out, and deform the end that fits into the flywheel. Then drive it back in. It should stay tight after that.
Wonder how well just a dab of super glue would do? Wouldnt be forever, but it should make it tighter.
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Old 05-11-2005, 02:53 PM   #6584
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Here is what Im talking about.

Page 23. This shows the steering arm piece flush with the post.
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File Type: jpg r40-p23o_weird.jpg (75.9 KB, 74 views)
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Old 05-11-2005, 02:53 PM   #6585
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
What was it?
I had thethrottle trim too high on my xs3. I told you I missed somthing very stupid. I was messing with my clutch the whole time when It was just that.
Finally got to run my r40 around a little, shifts perfectly. Just need to get my gaskets and engine mount screws. I will then make the clutch engage earlier.

Thanks for everyones help.
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