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Old 05-10-2005, 10:55 AM   #6541
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I actually cut mine. It didn't change the shape much so nothing else was needed. Time to run the car. Gonna test my skyline, BMW, and Lola bodies as well as lean the engine out a little more to see more power.
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Old 05-10-2005, 11:19 AM   #6542
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So how do you know when you've leaned it out too much? I kept leaning mine out because I thought you're supposed to see a smoke trail only on full bore. I would keep seeing one only on about 1/4 throttle. Turns out it was way too lean, according to the track owner....
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Old 05-10-2005, 11:51 AM   #6543
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engine tuning is an art. it requires all senses, except taste =)
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:03 PM   #6544
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Quote:
Originally posted by gibbous
So how do you know when you've leaned it out too much? I kept leaning mine out because I thought you're supposed to see a smoke trail only on full bore. I would keep seeing one only on about 1/4 throttle. Turns out it was way too lean, according to the track owner....
Buy yourself a temperature gun - well worth the $$$.

Basically you will adjust the top-end mixture for a head temperature of around 220 - 240 AFTER making a few hotlaps. Make sure you are driving the car as you will be racing it - HARD.

Once the top-end is set, then you'll work to adjust the low-end ( the screw that is accessed from the front of the car ( and it is usually a bear to access ). Never adjust the mid-range ( the easy one to access from the rear ). You will adjust the low-end so the engine has good throttle punch off the line BUT it also should leave a trace of smoke on acceleration.... anyway , that my method and I'm sure it isnt the best.. Good luck!
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:27 PM   #6545
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Since I have to purchase a few parts since my little accident...are there any recommended options or hop-ups for the R40?

I am checking into the Eagle/Integy stuff and wish I could get a hold of Kawahara R40 products.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:27 PM   #6546
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Quote:
Originally posted by gibbous
Short answer is that was what was in my pit box, besides the kit tires, that is.

I can't run 30mms in the rear because they hit my header under compression. "Your header?!" I hear you say, yes my header because yours truly decided it would be nice to save a bit of $ on a Nitro Star .12 R even though it was a side exhaust. I had to hunt for the right header, shim the engine mount up, and then when I finally get to the track I find out that 30mm tires hit the header when the suspension is even a little bit compressed.

In the meantime I blew some cash on a Spektrum system, so it's going to be a while before I can afford a new motor....

Thanks for the tips!, I will check it out tonight.
There are a couple of ways to fix your clearance problem between the tire and header. One way, is to run to engine and get the pipe nice and hot. Remove the rear wheel and put on a pair of gloves. Now carefully bend the header forward. Leave the pipe connected so you can keep the angle of the outlet where you need it. The other way (you need a vise for this) is to remove the engine from the car, leaving the header bolted to the engine. Remove the pipe and coupler from the header. Wrap a towel around the crankcase and pipe. Position it in the vise so the header will bend towards the front of the car. Now squeeze a little at a time. You will only need to move the header 1/4 inch or so at the most. I used to have to do this all the time with my RS4 and side exhaust.

Almost forgot, I have also done it another way. I used a tube flanging tool. The type you use for making a flange in copper tube for natural gas lines. The tool has one side that clamps around tubes of different diameters. I just clamped it near the outlet end of the header with the engine removed and used the tool as extra leverage to bend the header. I used to do this when I crashed really bad and my pipe and header got pushed backward. The tool would also make the pipe round again. Most people would just buy a new header, but I'm just a cheap SOB, so I'd just straighten out the bent one.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:33 PM   #6547
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Quote:
Originally posted by performula
Since I have to purchase a few parts since my little accident...are there any recommended options or hop-ups for the R40?

I am checking into the Eagle/Integy stuff and wish I could get a hold of Kawahara R40 products.
You might want to try the carbon graphite arms. Also get the graphite shock towers if you are replacing them. I personally would stick with the HPI ones. The only drawback to the CG arms is that they are a bit more brittle. If you are hitting lots of stuff, I would stick to the stock. They will flex instead of breaking.

Make sure you take your car apart after a session like that. You will probably find enlarged holes and bent hinge pins in the bulkheads. Doing this will keep you from more frustration when you go back to the track.
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:07 PM   #6548
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Default 2nd Gear not shifting

Hello all,

First outing on the track and what a bomb! This car punches off the line like a jet plane. My friend took a picture of me grinning like a 10 year old kid at christmas. All I can say is well worth the wait!

And all this fun without the second gear.

I have the light weight tansmission. After having read and re read the instructions I still cannot figure it out:

I have tightened the black and silver retaining screws till they touch the spring collar, but if I back out three turns as indicated in the instructions the screws stick out 2 mm, so the transmission won't fit in the gear housing. Therefore I left it as above

I also tightened the two small balls until they barely touch the shoe boss, and the end result is that the shoe boss turns freely within the two shoes yet the 2 gear doesn't engage. HELP
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:19 PM   #6549
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Quote:
Originally posted by Benzoil
Hello all,

First outing on the track and what a bomb! This car punches off the line like a jet plane. My friend took a picture of me grinning like a 10 year old kid at christmas. All I can say is well worth the wait!

And all this fun without the second gear.

I have the light weight tansmission. After having read and re read the instructions I still cannot figure it out:

I have tightened the black and silver retaining screws till they touch the spring collar, but if I back out three turns as indicated in the instructions the screws stick out 2 mm, so the transmission won't fit in the gear housing. Therefore I left it as above

I also tightened the two small balls until they barely touch the shoe boss, and the end result is that the shoe boss turns freely within the two shoes yet the 2 gear doesn't engage. HELP
I did the same thing with the 2speed.. you want to tighten down the center set screws until there is a small gap between the shoes.. the shoe boss should not spin freely within the shoes.

there is a small margin between the shoes not being spread apart far enough and too much so that it wont fit into the gear housing..

hope this helps....
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:26 PM   #6550
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
You might want to try the carbon graphite arms. Also get the graphite shock towers if you are replacing them. I personally would stick with the HPI ones. The only drawback to the CG arms is that they are a bit more brittle. If you are hitting lots of stuff, I would stick to the stock. They will flex instead of breaking.

Make sure you take your car apart after a session like that. You will probably find enlarged holes and bent hinge pins in the bulkheads. Doing this will keep you from more frustration when you go back to the track.
I forgot If I reported this after doing some research then finally talking one on one with an HPI Tech.

They said that they did testing and found the graphite arms to be worse. Maybe they might break more but not sure if he meant performance as well.

I would have gotten mine. But I decided to hold off. I still might test them. But you might want to play around with different hop-ups before getting this one if your budget is tight.

Good luck.
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:28 PM   #6551
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
You might want to try the carbon graphite arms. Also get the graphite shock towers if you are replacing them. I personally would stick with the HPI ones. The only drawback to the CG arms is that they are a bit more brittle. If you are hitting lots of stuff, I would stick to the stock. They will flex instead of breaking.

Make sure you take your car apart after a session like that. You will probably find enlarged holes and bent hinge pins in the bulkheads. Doing this will keep you from more frustration when you go back to the track.
Anyone online have a good selection of R40 parts that you know of other than Tower?

I catch what you are saying. I did take the front end apart and found that the upper arm pin was bent.

From my experience on Sunday I think I learned a valuable lesson from the whole wrecking thing. When I first go on the track forget it...board champion. However I did get better and will take it slow this weekend, I embarrassed myself.
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:32 PM   #6552
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http://www.rcmart.com - they have a bunch, but people complain about messed up orders and longer shipping times.

I ordered from them and got my stuff pretty timely. Nothing wrong.

There is also direct from http://integy.com - not sure about the pricing

and direct from http://www.3racing.com.hk - 3racing , will be a bit more exspensive than rcmart.

Ebay also has some people with 3racing stuff.

It wont show up unless you hit. "3racing r40"

Then youll find a bunch of stores with 3racing stuff and I believe you can try other search terms like kawahara r40 and so on.
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Old 05-10-2005, 02:12 PM   #6553
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thnks onnetz for quiock and clear explanation will correct my set up accordingly
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Old 05-10-2005, 02:15 PM   #6554
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Make sure that boss screw DOES move a slight bit before locking. If it locks the car won't shift properly.
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Old 05-10-2005, 02:28 PM   #6555
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onnetz, when I adjust as per your instructions the boss does not rotate at all within the shoes, ie it is now a solid axle. Is this correct?
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