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Old 05-04-2005, 11:02 PM   #6406
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Sorry bro i tried that and it seems that in the lighter tranny the teeth have a different set up, you wont be able to use the stock pinions on the LW tranny. To save you some bucks $$$$ go ahead and get the LW tranny and try it as it comes the ratio is better and you will get a bit more top end. I believe that stock it uses 60T-54T spurs and 29T-22T pinions. They work awesome...
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:04 PM   #6407
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BTW at the end of the thread I was talking about the LW 2 speed... just to clarify lol... Also if you can get the Lighter shafts, they work great with the LW tranny....
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:41 PM   #6408
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Quote:
Originally posted by onnetz
ok.. now my next question is that if I get all the pinions for the stock 2speed and then switch to the lw 2speed, will they work or not?

I'm assuming this is what you meant by module 1.0
Metric Module is an engineering term which defines the ratio of teeth to diameter in millimetres. The 0.8 module gears from HPI are close to the 0.8 ratio, but not totally spot on. By altering the module to keep the OD of the pinion the same and reshaping the teeth of the pinion HPI allows all combinations to work.

By definition 1.0 module gears will not mesh with 0.8 module gears.
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Old 05-05-2005, 12:21 AM   #6409
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looks like I will hold off on getting a bunch of gears then..

btw.. Klanderman: man I dont need any more top end - I dont have enough room as it is..

this motor has about 1/2 gallon through it and is still getting faster.......
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Old 05-05-2005, 04:09 AM   #6410
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I was setting up my new starter box last night for about 45 minutes and couldn't quite get the flywheel and bump wheel to line up. I was taping off dimensions trying to pinpoint a location. Well just when I decided to quit because of frustration the LAST position I left the car (by accident) was the perfect location. It was crazy, thought I'd share.
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Old 05-05-2005, 05:38 AM   #6411
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Hhaha yeah no one tells you about that little problem. Once you get the spot remember it with cue points. I look for these two bolts that my chassis sticks in between. You can also just place it in the center and try moving around the rubber wheel to get it in place with your fly.

I also have my starter box setup without any pins since the wheel doesnt seem able to get all the way up to the engine.
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:30 AM   #6412
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Use the pegs that come with your starter box. That will help you get things started up a lot better than having to line it up all the time.

Klander- Gonna to do some high speed runs soon with the R40.
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:39 AM   #6413
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Awesome HARK- I will try to send you the videoclip ok...
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:42 AM   #6414
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Oh try them on the side of the chassis? I was thinking about that. Is that what they are supposed to do. Cause at first I was setting the chassis on top of them.
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Old 05-05-2005, 11:51 AM   #6415
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The pegs aren't suppose to sit under the chassis. I thought so also as no one ever explained about them. . They sit around the chassis or arms. Just line the car up on the box first and see where the wheel hits the flywheel. Mark the spots where u see the pegs can go to hold the car in it's place. Then install the. BRB I'll take some pics.
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Old 05-05-2005, 11:56 AM   #6416
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Default Clutch questions

Hi all,

need a few pointers on setting up the clutch:

I have an NSR 12 s3, and it already has a cone retainer in front of the engine bearing, do I need to take it off and insert the black 0.8m shim behind it?

does anyboby run this engine on their r40? I don't have digital calipers so perhaps someone can give me their setup for shimming this particular engine

Reading the previous threads on this issue I understand its best not to use the O spring, apart from that I will start by using the stock (2004) clutch shoes etc...

Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2005, 01:07 PM   #6417
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Default Re: Clutch questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Benzoil
Hi all,

need a few pointers on setting up the clutch:

I have an NSR 12 s3, and it already has a cone retainer in front of the engine bearing, do I need to take it off and insert the black 0.8m shim behind it?

does anyboby run this engine on their r40? I don't have digital calipers so perhaps someone can give me their setup for shimming this particular engine

Reading the previous threads on this issue I understand its best not to use the O spring, apart from that I will start by using the stock (2004) clutch shoes etc...

Thanks!
best not to use the O spring?
I'm sure that you do need to use the spring...
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Old 05-05-2005, 01:10 PM   #6418
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Default Re: Clutch questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Benzoil
Hi all,

need a few pointers on setting up the clutch:

I have an NSR 12 s3, and it already has a cone retainer in front of the engine bearing, do I need to take it off and insert the black 0.8m shim behind it?

does anyboby run this engine on their r40? I don't have digital calipers so perhaps someone can give me their setup for shimming this particular engine

Reading the previous threads on this issue I understand its best not to use the O spring, apart from that I will start by using the stock (2004) clutch shoes etc...

Thanks!
No! That was a question I asked since the spring failed when I was trying to install it. For the clutch to work properly the spring has to be added.
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Old 05-05-2005, 01:23 PM   #6419
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Quote:
Originally posted by jt6
Besides Tower Hobbies, where does everyone buy R40 parts online?

Check Integy.com
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Old 05-05-2005, 01:29 PM   #6420
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Here is my box.
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