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Old 05-04-2005, 04:42 AM   #6391
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Yeah they came over and ran at B&B a few times
I run with them all the time. They'll start running the pipe, as soon as I get these manifolds worked out, to go with the pipes.
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Old 05-04-2005, 07:13 AM   #6392
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Default R40 build questions

Hello all,

First let me say thnks to all those who have helped make this forum so resourceful, I have spent many a night reading about your experiences! I have just recieved my r40 2004 and am in the frustrating final steps of assembly, here are a few of the issues I have with the car:

1. There is an incredible amount of binding in the steering assembly, although I have the bearing kit: ie i need to hold the car with one hand and yank the rod to get the wheels moving. Any remedies?

2. The front knuckles (where the connecting steering rods attach) also rub against the lower suspension triangle , is this normal?

3. Is the black transmission module supposed to spin freely ie (no friction) within the 2nd gear housing?

4. This kit came with the carbon graphite shock towers, and a small brace to be installed on rear suspension mount: are any of you using this item?

Other than these minor problems the kit seems great, I ran an RS4 evo this winter and this should be one hell of a ride! One more thing, I have Ko Propo 2363-4 servos ie high throttle and high speed, and I am hearing different opinions as to which one to use for steering and throttle, again, any ideas? Thanks for any advice, I'll post pictures soon

Cedric
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:05 AM   #6393
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Default Re: R40 build questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Benzoil
Hello all,

First let me say thnks to all those who have helped make this forum so resourceful, I have spent many a night reading about your experiences! I have just recieved my r40 2004 and am in the frustrating final steps of assembly, here are a few of the issues I have with the car:

1. There is an incredible amount of binding in the steering assembly, although I have the bearing kit: ie i need to hold the car with one hand and yank the rod to get the wheels moving. Any remedies?


If you tighten the screws on the steering plate too much you will get binding...

Quote:
2. The front knuckles (where the connecting steering rods attach) also rub against the lower suspension triangle , is this normal?
no rubbing on mine, so no it isn't normal..

Quote:
3. Is the black transmission module supposed to spin freely ie (no friction) within the 2nd gear housing?
yes it should spin freely. if it doesnt then you probably have too much of a gap between the shoes.

Quote:
4. This kit came with the carbon graphite shock towers, and a small brace to be installed on rear suspension mount: are any of you using this item?
dont have em so can't answer it..

Quote:

Other than these minor problems the kit seems great, I ran an RS4 evo this winter and this should be one hell of a ride! One more thing, I have Ko Propo 2363-4 servos ie high throttle and high speed, and I am hearing different opinions as to which one to use for steering and throttle, again, any ideas? Thanks for any advice, I'll post pictures soon

Cedric
most people use digital servos for steering and analog for throttle... speed and torque are more important for steering than throttle.. if using a digital servo for the throttle and the epa isnt setup correctly you can damage the servo.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:09 AM   #6394
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Also if the pivot balls are too tight on the front knuckles the car wont turn, use ligth grease for these as the manual explains that area...
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:20 AM   #6395
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Thanks for the quick reply,

Regarding the stering assembly, if I loosen the flanged bearings they travel vertically, surely this can't be right.

My steering servo seems to edged out beyond the upper deck limit, as such vulnerable to side impact: Have you tried cutting out the thin strip parallel to the tank on the upper deck to place the servo closer to the battery case?
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:25 AM   #6396
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Quote:
Originally posted by Benzoil
Thanks for the quick reply,

Regarding the stering assembly, if I loosen the flanged bearings they travel vertically, surely this can't be right.

My steering servo seems to edged out beyond the upper deck limit, as such vulnerable to side impact: Have you tried cutting out the thin strip parallel to the tank on the upper deck to place the servo closer to the battery case?
What I did for the steering was take out the plastic bushing with the little lip on it to free up space in the steering assembly. Seems to work fine now.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:39 AM   #6397
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Do you mean shaving off the tip of 75047a?
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:22 PM   #6398
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Quote:
Originally posted by Benzoil
Thanks for the quick reply,

Regarding the stering assembly, if I loosen the flanged bearings they travel vertically, surely this can't be right.

My steering servo seems to edged out beyond the upper deck limit, as such vulnerable to side impact: Have you tried cutting out the thin strip parallel to the tank on the upper deck to place the servo closer to the battery case?
Shaving down the top deck would work. The only reason I didn't do it on mine is that the wires all run between the servo horn and the battery box and I was afraid that the wires would rub. I was also thinking of losing the battery box, receiver box and doing the top deck mod to loose some weight and get the steering servo out of harms way a bit more.
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:54 PM   #6399
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Be sure your servo arm isnt rubbing the upper deck.
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:11 PM   #6400
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Default gear choices

I plan on getting a variety of pinions and spurs but am curious about wich ones will work with each other..
I know the pinions are colored to match 1st and 2nd gear.. but what about the spurs?
if you use a certain number teeth for first gear is there a range you have to stick with for 2nd?
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:27 PM   #6401
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Default Re: gear choices

Quote:
Originally posted by onnetz
I plan on getting a variety of pinions and spurs but am curious about wich ones will work with each other..
I know the pinions are colored to match 1st and 2nd gear.. but what about the spurs?
if you use a certain number teeth for first gear is there a range you have to stick with for 2nd?
You want to keep the "pinion ratio" and the "spur ratio" close to matching when possible. For example if you run a 49T 1st and 46T 2nd gear (spurs) there is a tooth difference of 3 teeth. So for optimum gear meshing you would select the 1st and 2nd pinion gears with a difference of 3 teeth; such as 16T and 19T. Once again, this is for optimum gear meshing (gear alignment). Don't be afraid to try a delta of 3 on the spur with a delta of 4 on the pinions though as I have used that in the past. I have seen some set-up sheets from drivers that stray away from this becuase as long as your gear meshing is OK then there is no problem.

From an engine performance stand-point you will want to select the gear ratio that keeps the RPMs in the "powerband" as it is shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I guess in a perfect world, you might set up your gearing using your pinions first the change the spurs to give you a similar delta in teeth count.

You get the idea.. my two cents worth anyway.
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:46 PM   #6402
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thanks.. thats exactly what I wanted to know..

it should be fun experimenting with different gear ratios..
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:37 PM   #6403
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With the R40 you can use every single pinion with every single spur, there is no combination that will not work. Seems strange right? The gears are not made with a fixed pitch to the teeth. They are all using a modified pitch to ensure that the outer diameter of the pinions is the same, along with the diameter of the spur gears.

This means that you can use any combination with no problems. Some may get the slightest touch of binding but a bit of running and they are free.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:43 PM   #6404
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Actually I will correct myself slightly here:

the 22, 23 and 24 tooth pinion gears in the 1.0 module size must be used with the 76952 spur gear. This is due to the fact the the pitch of these 3 pinions are too far modified for the normal spurs.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:58 PM   #6405
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ok.. now my next question is that if I get all the pinions for the stock 2speed and then switch to the lw 2speed, will they work or not?

I'm assuming this is what you meant by module 1.0
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