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Old 05-01-2005, 12:12 PM   #6316
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by JAG Racing
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
JAG I like everything you said about cutting holes. Except for the window on the opposite side of the engine.

.... No problem Artificial-I.... Don't ask an EE about aero dynamics
EE? I really have no clue what that is. But I dig the info you give.

I believe you give a lot of good info. From the little bit ive seen so far. Since im fairly new to this forum, its all solid.

Ahh and it just came to me. Electronic Engineer? Well I know who to goto for eletronic stuff.

Which reminds me. Iam an all around guy. I have lots of racing and tuning advice from real and rc cars. They both go hand in hand....and the great thing about it. Tricks RC people know, real car people dont and vice a versa.

Gives me good info to run on and fresh takes on thing. Hopefully anything I can pick up on. Ill bring this to you guys.

Take care.
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Old 05-01-2005, 05:28 PM   #6317
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
JAG I like everything you said about cutting holes. Except for the window on the opposite side of the engine.

Reason people do one side. If you have two incoming opposite air paths , they will cancel each other. The same happens in a real car.
*snip*

For a race setup and most of my bodies I cut the window on the side of the motor. And align my front 2 in. windshield hole with the cooling head. Which in the case of the r40. Towards the Drivers side. While my rear windows are either a single larger oval type window in the center of the back...which helps draw the air across the motor and filter. To allow it to get some cool air, which also helps power and efficiency.
Hara cut both side windows in 2003:



And 2004:



And I regularly cut both my side windows. Seems to work ok.
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:19 PM   #6318
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Well, thats pretty interesting. Only thing I notice is HARA's filter looks like its farther over the car than mine. Not sure if thats an extension or maybe a different carb. But thats a nova kinda like mine.

Maybe its giving that filter air. Also his rear window is also kinda wild, not sure if its for looks or performance. I would figure one large window would be better. But maybe the smaller holes helps keep the shell in tact more.

But im just going on real cars and my thoughts. Maybe im just using the noodle a bit better than HARA.

The other reason is maybe balance. Im not real sure about how straight it makes a car go. But I wouldnt mind doing some on off body tests in a controlled environment (that being just using the same strip of ground to run on).

And see if it maybe gets me to pull to one side.

But I know the points I brought up are valid. Im just not sure the reason for HARA using two windows.

But it does reassure me that a guy like hara can run fine with both, then if your into it. Go for it. I guess only lap times would tell. I just havent really sat there and thought and tested it.

Ill have to try it now though. But I highly doubt Ill be buying two of the same bodies and running one with one window cut and the other with two. So my testing might not be fair.

Good info though.
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:52 PM   #6319
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I'm soon the join the RB team. I'm gonna get 1 3port v12 and 1 5port both non rody's. There cheaper than the novas I wanted so im gonna get them. I'll probally put the 5prt in my ft ntc3 the 3prt for the new r40 and the tr for the backup tc3.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:31 PM   #6320
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Sounds good dude. You will love the RB engines . They start up nice n easy outta the box and after the break in they run awesome from there.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:49 PM   #6321
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I was at Sugar Bowl today in Sugar Hill, GA (Nice place) and I asked the only person that had an R40 - how he felt about the car...he said that the car lacked something that the other "cars" had, he couldn't put his finger on it. His car was faster than the Serpents and Mugens on course so I have no clue what he was talking about.

"It's a Japanese parts car" while I kept quiet I thought to myself that the 710 and MTX3 use parts from previous and other cars in their line-up. It has no effect on how I feel just shocked he'd say that.

The car is $100 less and has parts support out of the yang. And it keeps up with the comp so who knows.
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:45 PM   #6322
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Default clutch

I had mine set where I wanted it and after a few runs I need to readjust it again..
is this common?
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:10 PM   #6323
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Heat makes metal expand. I would adjust it while its hot... Or do you mean its changing settings and you have to reset it.
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:20 PM   #6324
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it has changed settings after a few runs..
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:22 PM   #6325
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Quote:
Originally posted by onnetz
it has changed settings after a few runs..
We discussed this a while back. It seems that the adjuster nut likes to move on the flywheel nut as the grooves cut into them are too loose. Fixes:

Mugen or Kyosho flywheel nut
Use some teflon tape on the flywheel nut
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:23 PM   #6326
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Quote:
Originally posted by performula
I was at Sugar Bowl today in Sugar Hill, GA (Nice place) and I asked the only person that had an R40 - how he felt about the car...he said that the car lacked something that the other "cars" had, he couldn't put his finger on it. His car was faster than the Serpents and Mugens on course so I have no clue what he was talking about.

"It's a Japanese parts car" while I kept quiet I thought to myself that the 710 and MTX3 use parts from previous and other cars in their line-up. It has no effect on how I feel just shocked he'd say that.

The car is $100 less and has parts support out of the yang. And it keeps up with the comp so who knows.
I was at track today and a lot of the guys who usually run mugens and serpents were running their r40s. They said it handles great, just breaks easy.
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:26 PM   #6327
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
We discussed this a while back. It seems that the adjuster nut likes to move on the flywheel nut as the grooves cut into them are too loose. Fixes:

Mugen or Kyosho flywheel nut
Use some teflon tape on the flywheel nut
thanks.. I will use some tape until I can get another flywheel nut.
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Old 05-02-2005, 12:54 AM   #6328
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Default r-40

What exactly breaks easy? I just got one and I dont have it rolling yet. what needs to be strenghtened? My local track was built by the people who sell parts they got it set up to kill cars.
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:16 AM   #6329
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Originally posted by bsammyfl
What exactly breaks easy? I just got one and I dont have it rolling yet. what needs to be strenghtened? My local track was built by the people who sell parts they got it set up to kill cars.
From what the person I spoke with; the one thing he mentioned was the rear camber upper links stripping upon impact. He showed me where he used washers to keep them from breaking/stripping. It is a good idea (for any car).
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Old 05-02-2005, 07:24 AM   #6330
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Default Re: Re: r-40

Quote:
Originally posted by performula
From what the person I spoke with; the one thing he mentioned was the rear camber upper links stripping upon impact. He showed me where he used washers to keep them from breaking/stripping. It is a good idea (for any car).

I agree that this is a problem along with front steering blocks "popping off".

Steering block - Use a wider bumper so that the tires arent exposed to impacts. I will post a picture of a bumper I am using later tonight - so far it works and looks great.

Rear camber links - It would be interesting if someone would try to use heli-coils in the plastic BUT it is hard to find metric LHT heli-coils. I am sure there is a replacement link assembly that will work better we just have to find one. Fast Harry posted pics of what he uses and I have me a set in my tool box. I think they were form a RS4 Pro ..


AMG-Racer - those pics of Hara's car you pasted - what front tie rod link system is that? The factor R40 link system has some "slop" I want to get rid of. Thanks in advance.
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